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Does 10-30 plus 20-50 equal 15-40

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Old 01-23-2007, 10:42 PM
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Default Does 10-30 plus 20-50 equal 15-40

If you add equal amounts of 10-30 wt oil with 20-50 would that be the same as a 15-40 wt oil ??????????


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Old 01-23-2007, 10:52 PM
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No, and the reasons why involve equations that I do not want to even think about getting into.
Old 01-23-2007, 10:54 PM
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Do NOT ever mix oils!
Old 01-24-2007, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SHINER
Do NOT ever mix oils!
Can you please tell me why????

The oil is synthetic and the same brand if that makes any difference.

Please enlighten me............!!!!!!!


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Old 01-24-2007, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
No, and the reasons why involve equations that I do not want to even think about getting into.
Is it ball park close or what?????

It would have to be thicker than 10 at the low range and less than 50 at the high end.....wouldn't it????


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Old 01-24-2007, 12:31 AM
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bump, this is a good question lol.
Old 01-24-2007, 12:35 AM
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no, because they all have different properties. for example, mobil 1's 40 weight series is much better than its 30 weight series. you'll be mixing different additives, different base crude, possibly different groups (group I, group II, group III, group IV, group V), plus they all run at different CST's. it's nothing but a big mess. mixing oil is a BAD IDEA. PERIOD.

btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
Old 01-24-2007, 02:02 AM
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WTF?~!.....who comes up with this crap?...choco handle this oil issue, just thinking about that gave me a headache....

thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
Old 01-24-2007, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
no, because they all have different properties. for example, mobil 1's 40 weight series is much better than its 30 weight series. you'll be mixing different additives, different base crude, possibly different groups (group I, group II, group III, group IV, group V), plus they all run at different CST's. it's nothing but a big mess. mixing oil is a BAD IDEA. PERIOD.

btw, why would anyone EVER want to run a 15W-40, especially in an LS1? can you say "no startup protection" and "never starts in the cold"?
So you recommend Mobil 10-40 (correct me if I'm wrong) but feel 15-40 is too thick???

Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F

And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.

And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1


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Old 01-24-2007, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by staringback05
WTF?~!.....who comes up with this crap?...choco handle this oil issue, just thinking about that gave me a headache....

thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen
Can you please translate this into an answer that is understandable


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Old 01-24-2007, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
So you recommend Mobil 10-40 (correct me if I'm wrong) but feel 15-40 is too thick???

Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F

And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.

And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1


DH
I think you could get away with a 20W-50, especially if your living in sunny California!
Old 01-24-2007, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SHINER
I think you could get away with a 20W-50, especially if your living in sunny California!
I have been using Valvoline Syntec 20-50.

Then when the weather recently changed my oil consumption went up. I had a leakdown/compression test and all was good.

Tony at AFR suggested that a possible explanation would be (this is not his words) that some tilt in piston/rings could be sucking extra thick oil off cylinder walls.

Thanks for confirming that I am not a COMPLETE IMBACILE for using thicker oil


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Old 01-24-2007, 03:26 PM
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If a builder specs an oil weight then I guess that's what you should use. The ONLY oil brand I would mix weights with (within brand only) is Red Line. Reason being, they are one of the few (only??) brand(s) that DO NOT add viscosity index improvers/pour point depressants to any of their oils except for their 5W-40. Otherwise, the additive package is IDENTICAL across their whole multi-viscosity range (I confirmed this with their techs). So mixing weights is OK with Red Line.
Old 01-24-2007, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
So you recommend Mobil 10-40 (correct me if I'm wrong) but feel 15-40 is too thick???

Also I am in SoCal ...... so cold = 40* F

And this is a stroked 402 which is not really a factory LS1 in clearance specs.

And the builder recommeded 15-50 Mobil1


DH
i wouldn't recommend a 10W anything. there's no point in running a 10W in an LS1. all it does is starve the motor on startup. run a 5W or a 0W. the only oils i can honestly recommend are GC 0W-30 and mobil 1 5W-40. mobil 1 0W-40's okay, too. other than those three, i wouldn't put anything else in my engine. the last ~8,000 miles of my motor's life have been on GC 0W-30. i just switched to mobil 1 5W-40 for a comparison. i'll analyze both and run the better from here on out.

a 50 weight is far too thick IMO! i wouldn't want that clogging up my motor and causing huge oil pressure. i wouldn't run a 40 weight either if it's conventional oil. a 40 weight synthetic is fine because they seem to be thinner and have better flow properties. again, 5W or 0W is all you should run in these motors. 10W is too thick for startup and doesn't flow fast enough.
Old 01-24-2007, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
If a builder specs an oil weight then I guess that's what you should use. The ONLY oil brand I would mix weights with (within brand only) is Red Line. Reason being, they are one of the few (only??) brand(s) that DO NOT add viscosity index improvers/pour point depressants to any of their oils except for their 5W-40. Otherwise, the additive package is IDENTICAL across their whole multi-viscosity range (I confirmed this with their techs). So mixing weights is OK with Red Line.
Thanks for your input....


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Old 01-24-2007, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
i wouldn't recommend a 10W anything. there's no point in running a 10W in an LS1. all it does is starve the motor on startup. run a 5W or a 0W. the only oils i can honestly recommend are GC 0W-30 and mobil 1 5W-40. mobil 1 0W-40's okay, too. other than those three, i wouldn't put anything else in my engine. the last ~8,000 miles of my motor's life have been on GC 0W-30. i just switched to mobil 1 5W-40 for a comparison. i'll analyze both and run the better from here on out.

a 50 weight is far too thick IMO! i wouldn't want that clogging up my motor and causing huge oil pressure. i wouldn't run a 40 weight either if it's conventional oil. a 40 weight synthetic is fine because they seem to be thinner and have better flow properties. again, 5W or 0W is all you should run in these motors. 10W is too thick for startup and doesn't flow fast enough.
Thanks for your opinion and clarification .......


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Old 01-24-2007, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
Thanks for your opinion and clarification .......


DH
np
Old 01-24-2007, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by staringback05
WTF?~!.....who comes up with this crap?...choco handle this oil issue, just thinking about that gave me a headache....

thatd be like giving midgets stilts and telling them to post up jordan....that **** just aint gonna happen

Old 01-24-2007, 11:09 PM
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Refilled with Mobil1 15-50 as originally recommended by builder.

Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40

At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR


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Old 01-25-2007, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty howie
Refilled with Mobil1 15-50 as originally recommended by builder.

Doesn't seem like anyone makes a 15-40 synthetic?????.....you can get 0-30, 0-40, 5-20, 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, and even 5-50....but not 15-40

At least I know I can run the **** out my car saturday at WSIR


DH
Most of the synthetic 15W-40s are labelled as "diesel oils" with higher TBNs/detergents/additive packs, etc. Both Red Line and Amsoil make one,. I'm pretty sure there's a Rotella and a Delvac version as well.


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