600 HP goal need a an advise.
02-01-2007, 12:01 AM
#1
600 HP goal need a an advise. I need help, I have 99z28 w/ procharger D1SC making 472rwhp. When I got it installed, the fun begins. But it seems like I can't get enough, now my goal is to make it 600HP. can somebody give me an advise. Im planning to get heads and cam, I would like to go for AFR w/ matching good cam to gain more HP. My question is, will stock bottom end can handle the HP or do I need to forged it. But if the bottom end can handle 600HP, I will stay stock. Can anyone help me please.
02-01-2007, 12:06 AM
#3
Launching!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 909,So Cal
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats gonna be hard to do. LTs will make you fail a smog test faster then a monkey humps a football. youll start breaking ringlands at around 500 rwp. your gonna need forged. good luck anyway
02-02-2007, 09:49 AM
#6
I guess, I have no choice. I'm going to get forged rod and pistons but I will keep the stock crank. I heard the stock crank can hold up 700HP, is that true? And do you guys have any idea where can I get what I'm looking for, I would like to keep the same compression ration as a stock because I'm corcern about the emission here in Cali.
Trending Topics
02-06-2007, 11:21 PM
#11
Well, I spent a while looking for easy ways to get 600rwhp, and going up in displacement seems the best way to go. I'd do a search for other members from California who have smogged their car after stroking or building a 402 - 408 to see if its even possible. With the extra cubic inches, you could probably still run a mild enough cam to pass, and get to your power goal.
Your other alternative is to Forge what you have and hope the 224/224 114 cam that passes in N/A cars will also pass with FI. You could dump some intake duration for insurance, and drop to 218 or 220. Will probably still require some of the best heads you can afford to get 600rwhp (something like 750 at the crank).
Your other alternative is to Forge what you have and hope the 224/224 114 cam that passes in N/A cars will also pass with FI. You could dump some intake duration for insurance, and drop to 218 or 220. Will probably still require some of the best heads you can afford to get 600rwhp (something like 750 at the crank).
02-07-2007, 08:52 AM
#12
Thanks for the info, I think I will stay on 346 and forged it. My motor is still good and never abuse it and the mileage is still pretty low. And for the heads I will go for AFR 205's w/ 224/224 cam, with that I can gain more HP and can even make the boost higher a little bit and I should get what I'm looking for. What do you think
02-07-2007, 09:00 AM
#13
CARTEK Racing
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: East Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 2,182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have seen more then a few stock bottom end [with rod-bolts] boosted LS1/LS2/LS6 last at over 600HP for a long time.
I think 640 to 650 is about the reliable limit for a boosted stock bottom end LSx motor.
I think 640 to 650 is about the reliable limit for a boosted stock bottom end LSx motor.
02-07-2007, 09:15 AM
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Houston, TX
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WS6TransAm01
I have seen more then a few stock bottom end [with rod-bolts] boosted LS1/LS2/LS6 last at over 600HP for a long time.
I think 640 to 650 is about the reliable limit for a boosted stock bottom end LSx motor.
I think 640 to 650 is about the reliable limit for a boosted stock bottom end LSx motor.
02-07-2007, 10:28 AM
#15
Extra displacement now makes it easier to make more power later when boredom sets in the next time. The money you spend to Forge your 346 you probably wouldn't ever recoup. Plus you could potentially sell your complete running longblock while its in good condition to offset some of the cost.
02-07-2007, 10:53 AM
#16
Build a 383 with our small bore 225's....AFR P/N 1660.
If your seriously thinking about rods and pistons that means the engine is out of the car and sitting on an engine stand. The slight additional cost of a balanced rotating assy (versus just buying rods and pistons) is money well spent in my book. While I admit a stock crank is very good, you would still be stepping up the reliability factor and increasing displacement (always good) for a nominal percantage increase in dollars when evaluating the job as a whole (factoring in labor cost and tune).
You dont need the extra displacement to achieve your goals but why not benefit from all the area under the curve the larger engine helps achieve. It also puts the power closer to where you want it in a street car and helps reduce the somewhat soggy feeling a stock displacement blower car has off boost.
Feel free to call me if your thinking seriously about my suggestion....its the most cost effective low hassle stroker you could build....and if you do tend to put your foot in it alot could help put a bigger grin on your face as well as help keep it around a long time (higher quality components). I could help you with a cam to pass smog as well....something like a 222/226 or a 224/228 on a 115 LSA would work great and compliment the blower (with the wider LSA).
Good luck with your project....
Tony
(661)257-8124 Ext. 109
If your seriously thinking about rods and pistons that means the engine is out of the car and sitting on an engine stand. The slight additional cost of a balanced rotating assy (versus just buying rods and pistons) is money well spent in my book. While I admit a stock crank is very good, you would still be stepping up the reliability factor and increasing displacement (always good) for a nominal percantage increase in dollars when evaluating the job as a whole (factoring in labor cost and tune).
You dont need the extra displacement to achieve your goals but why not benefit from all the area under the curve the larger engine helps achieve. It also puts the power closer to where you want it in a street car and helps reduce the somewhat soggy feeling a stock displacement blower car has off boost.
Feel free to call me if your thinking seriously about my suggestion....its the most cost effective low hassle stroker you could build....and if you do tend to put your foot in it alot could help put a bigger grin on your face as well as help keep it around a long time (higher quality components). I could help you with a cam to pass smog as well....something like a 222/226 or a 224/228 on a 115 LSA would work great and compliment the blower (with the wider LSA).
Good luck with your project....
Tony
(661)257-8124 Ext. 109
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; 02-07-2007 at 11:01 AM.
02-07-2007, 02:46 PM
#17
Conversation is getting hot , Thank you guys for all the advise I'm getting here, there is nothing wrong w/ my motor and its on the car running. The only reason I'm asking all this information is to have an idea for the next step what should I do next. 472HP is good enough but the car got more potential, of course I have to spend money for parts and labor. Plus the new mustang cobra came out already w/500HP, I just dont wanna get intimidated by the snake on the road and I know all chevy guys feel the same thing.
If I am spending almost the same money on forged bottom end vs. bigger block (402 or 408) of course I will go for the bigger block. I just dont know how much I will spend. And main concern is emission in CALI thats the bottom line.
, Thank you guys for all the advise I'm getting here, there is nothing wrong w/ my motor and its on the car running. The only reason I'm asking all this information is to have an idea for the next step what should I do next. 472HP is good enough but the car got more potential, of course I have to spend money for parts and labor. Plus the new mustang cobra came out already w/500HP, I just dont wanna get intimidated by the snake on the road and I know all chevy guys feel the same thing.If I am spending almost the same money on forged bottom end vs. bigger block (402 or 408) of course I will go for the bigger block. I just dont know how much I will spend. And main concern is emission in CALI thats the bottom line.
02-07-2007, 10:12 PM
#19
TECH Regular
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kailua-Kona, HI
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry man, couldn't take it anymore:
It called advice, not advise. You don't need an advise, you would like some advice.
On to your question.
Are you looking for 600rwhp or 600fwhp?
What PSI are you currently running on your setup?
And just to let you know, with the power you are currently making, 600fwhp with heads and cam should be easy.
I would go with TFS (Trickflow) heads over the AFR's if I were you, and I would also go with a larger cam than a 224/224, IF you are going to forge the block.
If you don't want to do anything with the block, a 224 or 228 duration cam would be fine.
If you are really serious about making power and have some cash to spend:
Get a forged 402 block and be done with it.
Get some TFS heads.
Get a large cam 230+
Turn up your boost PSI
My buddy makes 470+rwhp on his 402 N/A and over 500rwtq with a .590 lift cam, so if you went over .600 and 230+ with that cambo and your blower....
Your car would be an absolute beast.
It called advice, not advise. You don't need an advise, you would like some advice.
On to your question.
Are you looking for 600rwhp or 600fwhp?
What PSI are you currently running on your setup?
And just to let you know, with the power you are currently making, 600fwhp with heads and cam should be easy.
I would go with TFS (Trickflow) heads over the AFR's if I were you, and I would also go with a larger cam than a 224/224, IF you are going to forge the block.
If you don't want to do anything with the block, a 224 or 228 duration cam would be fine.
If you are really serious about making power and have some cash to spend:
Get a forged 402 block and be done with it.
Get some TFS heads.
Get a large cam 230+
Turn up your boost PSI
My buddy makes 470+rwhp on his 402 N/A and over 500rwtq with a .590 lift cam, so if you went over .600 and 230+ with that cambo and your blower....
Your car would be an absolute beast.