Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I'm working a '95 Camaro Z28 with a LT1. I'm going to replace the head gaskets as they were blown and the radiator since it was cracked. The car is torn apart at the moment. I'm at the halfway point and I'll be sure never to do this again. Working on a LT1 is nothing like working on a LS1.

Anyhow, my question is, should I buy a factory radiator or just get one from the parts store? Same with the head gaskets? I brought this subject/question up because this has come up with LS1s. There are tons of claims not to use the gaskets that come supplied with aftermarket headers, to use the factory stainless steel set. I figured this may apply to LT1s.

Thanks.

BeaversTA

I have been using an aftermarket rad in my car for 3yr's now, with no problems. As for header gaskets I have been using felpro 1406's for years with headers.. I also used the impalla head gaskets to raise the CR a bit.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I had planned on getting a head set and radiator from either Oreilly or Autozone, but wanted to bring this up because I wanted to know if that would be ok or stick with GM parts.

I asked both Oreilly and Autozone what the brand of head set and they said Felpro. The radiator from Autozone was a Trans Po and the one from Oreilly is a TPR.

BP

My stock head gaskets supported 570rwhp, 571 blew them so bad the radiator hoses popped off though Radiator doesn't matter as long as it's reverse flow. I'd go with the 1406 header gaskets as well.

I would however recommend using the GM LT1 specific RTV for the ends of the intake gasket. It's dries as hard as concrete and is about the only thing I've found that doesn't leak.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Torque specs on the head bolts? Intake bolts? Any particular order?

96birdlt1

The torque specs on a 1995 or earlier is 65 Ft-lbs on the head bolts.



Tightening the intake manifold:
Step 1: tighten all bolts to 71 in-lbs
Step 2: retighten all bolts to 35 ft-lbs

Sorry for the kindergarden intake drawing. Hope this helps.

Joe

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

You poor bastard. You didn't know the nightmare you were getting into with an lt1.

FIREHAWK #07

iTrader: (1)

you got that right

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Thanks a lot guys. I ended up finding the torque specs of the heads in a search, then guess on the intake at 35 lbs. which I was right. It was definitely a nightmare. I've already got 13 hours into this project. Another 1-2 hours should wrap it up. Gota change the radiator and POSSIBLY the water pump. This damn car was a BIOTCH and it'll be the last time I work on a LT1.

BP

You should try your hand with an L-98.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

yea,
ive said that one be4 too
25 opti sparks later here i am

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

No, really. I don't own this car and I would NEVER own a LT1. No offense to any LT1 owners.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

third gens are easy

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

The car is finally done. Finished it up today after work. All is good and fired right up. I have only one question since I've never owned a LT1 and want to be sure of this so that I know that its normal.

Does temperature rise when its stationary? I took the car out for a run and it held at the 1st mark the entire time which should put the temperature at 185 degrees. Now I stopped, got out of the car, walked around it, and a couple of minutes later, the temperature got all the way up to the 3rd mark. Then the fans kicked on. What's the temperature that it must reach before the fans kick on? From the gauge, it has to be over 200 degrees and personally, I don't feel comfortable giving this guy's car back. It shouldn't fluctuate that much by coming to a stop for a short period of time. I know there isn't any air moving across the radiator when at a still, but seems like it generates a lot of heat. When the fans do kick in, the temperature slowly goes down. Letting the engine get that hot too often to me makes me think that it would have a bearing on the engine's life.

So again, is this normal?