3rd clutch gone - whats the deal?
02-04-2007, 12:45 PM
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3rd clutch gone - whats the deal? Ok i am on my third clutch in the car now and it started slipping last night. The stocker went out at about 103,000 miles which was understandable. Then i put in a RAM HD and it lasted about 6,000 miles and about 12 track passes and it was done, and i mean done. it was roasted, ive got pics of that. So then i got my money back on it and went to the parts store and got a "high-performance" replacement. its called a bruteforce and its basically a borgen-beck style with kevlar clutch material. at least thats what the guy told me. I had the bruteforce prefessionally installed. now the cars got 115,000 and its slipping again. what the f***?
By the way, the bruteforce came with a new flywheel and i had a new pilot, and slave/throw out put in too. and then a few weeks ago i put in a ram adjustable master.
are the pressure plate bolts loose or what? im all out of ideas. somebody help.
By the way, the bruteforce came with a new flywheel and i had a new pilot, and slave/throw out put in too. and then a few weeks ago i put in a ram adjustable master.
are the pressure plate bolts loose or what? im all out of ideas. somebody help.
02-05-2007, 07:32 AM
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Ram gave you a full refund???
I was told that they would only give me back $250 and mine only had 420 miles on it! HMMMM
You just put in your adj master cylinder? Was the clutch pretty much letting loose at the top of the peddle?? That is where mine would let go, only like two inches down. I was told it was rubbing constantly because of the stock master cylinder.
Randy_S
I was told that they would only give me back $250 and mine only had 420 miles on it! HMMMM
You just put in your adj master cylinder? Was the clutch pretty much letting loose at the top of the peddle?? That is where mine would let go, only like two inches down. I was told it was rubbing constantly because of the stock master cylinder.
Randy_S
02-05-2007, 08:56 AM
#4
Aside from the install and driver factors, I would say its the clutch itself, The only 2 companies id trust would be Mclode (sp) and Spec, spec has gotten better over the years but I wouldnt try Zoom, Ram (most of them), or Centerforce. I would consider a LS7 or the above 2. When my stocker goes, thats what I am going with.
Also consider the fluid, it could have boiled. I got 30k on a stock car and im going to do it before the season starts as a precaution.
Also consider the fluid, it could have boiled. I got 30k on a stock car and im going to do it before the season starts as a precaution.
02-05-2007, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_S
Ram gave you a full refund???
I was told that they would only give me back $250 and mine only had 420 miles on it! HMMMM
You just put in your adj master cylinder? Was the clutch pretty much letting loose at the top of the peddle?? That is where mine would let go, only like two inches down. I was told it was rubbing constantly because of the stock master cylinder.
Randy_S
I was told that they would only give me back $250 and mine only had 420 miles on it! HMMMM
You just put in your adj master cylinder? Was the clutch pretty much letting loose at the top of the peddle?? That is where mine would let go, only like two inches down. I was told it was rubbing constantly because of the stock master cylinder.
Randy_S
yes ram gave me a full refund. i cant remember exactly but it was around $420. before i put in the adj master, my engagement was on the floor. i could barely drive the car cuz i couldnt hardly get it to go into gear. bleeding the system did no good before the new master. now with the adj, its just right off the floor. i set it up so the clutch pedal was even with the brake pedal and thats where i left it.
02-05-2007, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Aside from the install and driver factors, I would say its the clutch itself, The only 2 companies id trust would be Mclode (sp) and Spec, spec has gotten better over the years but I wouldnt try Zoom, Ram (most of them), or Centerforce. I would consider a LS7 or the above 2. When my stocker goes, thats what I am going with.
Also consider the fluid, it could have boiled. I got 30k on a stock car and im going to do it before the season starts as a precaution.
Also consider the fluid, it could have boiled. I got 30k on a stock car and im going to do it before the season starts as a precaution.
well what about textralia. ive herd alot of good things about them. im ready to spend the big bucks for a top of the line clutch. im tired of this crap.
as far as the fluid, as much bleeding we did, it should be all fresh. we bled, and bled, and bled when installing that master. and thats only been a couple weeks ago.
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02-05-2007, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by coolformula
A lot of clutches require the stock master. Was you using the adjustable with all of them?
the only clutch i used the adj was this latest one which is a kevlar bruteforce. the stock and ram hd were on the stock master.
02-05-2007, 01:05 PM
#9
Originally Posted by BlackZLS1
well what about textralia. ive herd alot of good things about them. im ready to spend the big bucks for a top of the line clutch. im tired of this crap.
as far as the fluid, as much bleeding we did, it should be all fresh. we bled, and bled, and bled when installing that master. and thats only been a couple weeks ago.
as far as the fluid, as much bleeding we did, it should be all fresh. we bled, and bled, and bled when installing that master. and thats only been a couple weeks ago.
Yeap, I forgot about those, my bad, I personally have heard nothing but good things.
02-05-2007, 07:16 PM
#12
If your eating up your friction disc prematurely it's slipping. You have too much clearance between the flywheel/disc/clutch(pressure plate) which is another way of saying you don't have enough clamping force. You also say it's hard to shift. That doesn't make sense. If your disc is prematurely wearing it's already partially released(disengaged) before you even begin to depress the clutch pedal. You would expect the opposite to be true if it's hard to shift. When shifting is hard that indicates you're not getting full release which is the exact opposite of your symptom. If these parts are all new it appears some thing is wrong with the setup. Some good advice was given recently on how to diagnose this problem. With the car on jackstands you try to rotate the driveshaft as someone slowly depresses the clutch pedal. Your are trying to note at what point you can turn the driveshaft(slippage). You shouldn't be able to turn the shaft too soon in the pedal travel, but in your case I suspect you will. When the pressure plate is installed is the friction disc clamped? It should be. Did it take enough force to tighten the fasteners that bolt the clutch to the flywheel such that the pressure plate springs were being flexed during the bolt tightening process to clamp the friction disc solidly between the flywheel and clutch? If not it's going to slip. Your two symptom seem to contradict each other.
Last edited by eallanboggs; 02-06-2007 at 01:18 AM.
02-05-2007, 10:46 PM
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Make sure your pressure plate bolts are tight... Check your slave cylinder. It could be leaking brake fluid onto your clutch and causing it to fry.
02-05-2007, 11:24 PM
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im probably going to tear into it tomorow but if everything else checks out ok, what are some warranties on all these different clutch kits? i dont wanna spend alotta money on a clutch with a shitty warranty. or on a company that wont stand behind their product.
02-06-2007, 01:35 AM
#16
If the slave was leaking the hydraulic fluid could drip down onto the disc and cause it to slip resulting in premature wear, but if it was leaking that much you would think he would be out of fluid and unable to shift at all long before the friction disc had a chance to burn up.
A loose pressure plate would not cause a slave to fail. It would cause the main symptom he has which is multiple friction discs burning up in just a few thousand miles. That doesn't explain why his shifting is hard. The two symptoms don't go together. If the pressure plate is so loose that the disc burns up it's like you have very little clamping force which would result in easy shifts especially after you depress the clutch pedal. You just wouldn't make it out of the driveway. One exception would be if the bolts had backed themselves almost all the way out, but you would expect the thing to make one hell of a racked if that were the case.
You need to ask yourself at this point why this has happened twice. Did you leave the pressure plate bolts loose two times in a row. Not likely because you would have discovered it the last time you took the transmission out and corrected your mistake. You need to examine the parts very closely before you tighten the fastener to be sure the clutch is FULLY clamped down on your friction disc. I'd seriously consider a torque wrench and some locktite at this point after making damn sure all the parts are correct.
A loose pressure plate would not cause a slave to fail. It would cause the main symptom he has which is multiple friction discs burning up in just a few thousand miles. That doesn't explain why his shifting is hard. The two symptoms don't go together. If the pressure plate is so loose that the disc burns up it's like you have very little clamping force which would result in easy shifts especially after you depress the clutch pedal. You just wouldn't make it out of the driveway. One exception would be if the bolts had backed themselves almost all the way out, but you would expect the thing to make one hell of a racked if that were the case.
You need to ask yourself at this point why this has happened twice. Did you leave the pressure plate bolts loose two times in a row. Not likely because you would have discovered it the last time you took the transmission out and corrected your mistake. You need to examine the parts very closely before you tighten the fastener to be sure the clutch is FULLY clamped down on your friction disc. I'd seriously consider a torque wrench and some locktite at this point after making damn sure all the parts are correct.
Last edited by eallanboggs; 02-06-2007 at 01:41 AM.
02-06-2007, 06:37 AM
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i think you guys are getting the wrong idea. i no longer have trouble shifting into gear. that went away once i installed the new adj MC (i have it set up to engage just off the floor whereas to not damage the slave and still be able to get into gear) so therefore i only have the one problem now. and that is the slipping. but as far as the fluid being low, ill find out tonight when i get off work and start pullin the trans out.
02-07-2007, 09:31 AM
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well i couldnt pull my car into my shop yesterday because the ice and snow thats been on the ground for a month now melted and created a swamp in front my the shop (due to a abnormal high of 67 degrees, and i dont have a concrete or even a gravel drive). but i did check the clutch fluid and its still full from the MC install so im sure the slave isnt leaking. so today im gonna get the car in the shop and pull the trans and look at the clutch. hopefully its still good and maybe those pressure plate bolts just backed off a little bit cuz i got plenty of lock-tite to rememdy that.
02-11-2007, 05:16 AM
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UPDATE: pressure plate bolts were loose after all. only a couple of them were even remotely tight, a couple were kinda tight but not really, and one i could turn with my fingers. so i thread locked the bolts and put everything back together and its perfect again. the clutch grabs a **** load harder now and engagement is alot better now. someone should make a sticky about pressure plate bolts backing off. thread lock them b****'s and be done.
By the way, that brureforce clutch looks identical to a zoom clutch. first off its purple and the disk looks just like the zoom clutch disk for an ls1. and they are both the same pattern of kevlar on the disk. but the bruteforce is a little cheaper.
Also im pretty sure this would have to be the same reason the RAM went out after only 6,000 miles. only problem with that one was i drove it 70 miles home like that after it started slipping. which was why it burnt up. my faith in ram has been rejuvinated because of this ordeal.
By the way, that brureforce clutch looks identical to a zoom clutch. first off its purple and the disk looks just like the zoom clutch disk for an ls1. and they are both the same pattern of kevlar on the disk. but the bruteforce is a little cheaper.
Also im pretty sure this would have to be the same reason the RAM went out after only 6,000 miles. only problem with that one was i drove it 70 miles home like that after it started slipping. which was why it burnt up. my faith in ram has been rejuvinated because of this ordeal.
