ticking noise on intake
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: charleston wv
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ticking noise on intake
their is a little black cylinder that sits up on the driver side intake towards the front of the intake... one side of it is connected to a fuel line and the other side has a little tube that runs out of it to the base of the throttle body.... this ticks randomly and its kinda loud at time i have tried to look it up but i can not find my haynes manuel.. anyone has a say in what this is called imma try to get a picture of this tonight thanks in advance chris
#2
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: charleston wv
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the cylinder with the red arrow pointed at it is the part that is actually ticking...you can feel it.. as well as hearing it with the mechanics stethoscope..any ideas as to what this is..thanks in advance...
#4
That's what she said...
iTrader: (8)
That's the EVAP (purge) solenoid. It lets gas tank vapors vent into the intake manifold to be burned.
I'd be willing to bet that it's your AIR check valve ticking. It's in the green circle....
People have problems with them making noise all the time. The air pump (behind driver side foglight) blows air into the exhaust stream to heat the cats a bit quicker. There are check valves in there that prevent exhaust from flowing back toward the AIR pump, they start to rattle sometimes. People build restrictor plates for where the AIR tubes bolt to the manifolds, but I would just delete that crap.
You'll need HPTuners or some other editing software to delete the codes to keep the SES light from coming on though. You can also have the delete the EVAP codes (and fuel tank pressure sensor) and delete the EVAP system too.
If you're convinced that it's the EVAP solenoid ticking, you can unplug it, and remove it from the hose. You can then plug the manifold and leave that line in the engine bay as a vent. If the problem's still there, it's not the problem. You will get the SES light for this, but it'll go off when you put the crap back on and clear the code (autozone, or pull fuses to clear).
Another thing to think about is pushrods. Is the car an M6? I made a pushrod look like an J one day due to an missed shift. Ticked like CRAZY, but cheap to fix.
I'd be willing to bet that it's your AIR check valve ticking. It's in the green circle....
People have problems with them making noise all the time. The air pump (behind driver side foglight) blows air into the exhaust stream to heat the cats a bit quicker. There are check valves in there that prevent exhaust from flowing back toward the AIR pump, they start to rattle sometimes. People build restrictor plates for where the AIR tubes bolt to the manifolds, but I would just delete that crap.
You'll need HPTuners or some other editing software to delete the codes to keep the SES light from coming on though. You can also have the delete the EVAP codes (and fuel tank pressure sensor) and delete the EVAP system too.
If you're convinced that it's the EVAP solenoid ticking, you can unplug it, and remove it from the hose. You can then plug the manifold and leave that line in the engine bay as a vent. If the problem's still there, it's not the problem. You will get the SES light for this, but it'll go off when you put the crap back on and clear the code (autozone, or pull fuses to clear).
Another thing to think about is pushrods. Is the car an M6? I made a pushrod look like an J one day due to an missed shift. Ticked like CRAZY, but cheap to fix.