Pre-Install for LT's Getting Ready!
02-05-2007, 11:17 PM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pre-Install for LT's Getting Ready! Alright well im getting all of my stuff together first however ive still got a couple questions to be awnsered.
1) Do you guys recommend that when I have the car up on jacks that it should be level or is it okay if the back is hanging 1 foot lower then the front?
2) For the height difference I have 30" inches (2.5 feet) from the ground to the bottom of the car (front of car), is that enough? For the back I have it at 18" (1.5 feet). What do you guys recommend my hieghts should be?
3) For O2 Simulators will these work off ebay for my header install? Im not too sure because it says "These are only to replace the rear two sensors and not the front ones!" I just want to make sure im grabbing the correct ones.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...spagenameZWDVW
1) Do you guys recommend that when I have the car up on jacks that it should be level or is it okay if the back is hanging 1 foot lower then the front?
2) For the height difference I have 30" inches (2.5 feet) from the ground to the bottom of the car (front of car), is that enough? For the back I have it at 18" (1.5 feet). What do you guys recommend my hieghts should be?
3) For O2 Simulators will these work off ebay for my header install? Im not too sure because it says "These are only to replace the rear two sensors and not the front ones!" I just want to make sure im grabbing the correct ones.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...spagenameZWDVW
02-05-2007, 11:42 PM
#2
You should be good to go. Back is always lower than the front when I work on my ****. I put my small jackstands under the area I'm not working on, and it's usually the rear lol. I like to stick some blocks under the tires, even if they aren't touching, just for added security.
Those are the O2 sims you need, and that's Speed Inc. selling them (sponsor), so the eBay link is OK.
Those are the O2 sims you need, and that's Speed Inc. selling them (sponsor), so the eBay link is OK.
02-06-2007, 12:44 AM
#4
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by staringback05
yea when you start tugging on those bolts, youll be thinking about that 4000 pound car above you.....id soak the bolts also over night
And yes im going to have extra blocks under the tires just for extra security.
I get a little paranoid.
Trending Topics
02-07-2007, 10:45 AM
#12
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tulsa OK
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you have got it plenty high. I just installed some SLP's on my 98 Monday and thats about how high I had it. My install when EASY as crap compared to most of the stories around here especially for SLP LT's. I'll give you some steps I took.
1. I had my transmission out to replace the slave cylinder. I really don't think this helped as much as you would think. Maybe it did.
2. I took off the heat shields on both sides of the car the one on the driver side that has the stainless clutch line going thru it and the one on the passenger side that the stock cat is under.
3. I unbolted the steering shaft.
4. I also removed the coils from the passenger side. Adds a ton more room for your arm to get at the manifold bolts. Didn't have to remove them on the driver side. Also didn't remove my spark plugs. Although I will admit the transmission being out did allow for me to see enough to keep from breaking them. You should most likely remove them.
Both sides just slid right in. At one point though the passenger side looked like there was no way it would get in there, then I just took a second twisted it real slow in different directions and boom it when in there like I'd done it a million times.
I had stock stuff out and new long tubes in and torqued in about 3 hours. Soaking the lower exhaust bolts that you will need to remove in PB worked great for me. I sprayed them and let it sit for about 5 min everything came apart as easy as you could expect. Cheater bar was needed.
1. I had my transmission out to replace the slave cylinder. I really don't think this helped as much as you would think. Maybe it did.
2. I took off the heat shields on both sides of the car the one on the driver side that has the stainless clutch line going thru it and the one on the passenger side that the stock cat is under.
3. I unbolted the steering shaft.
4. I also removed the coils from the passenger side. Adds a ton more room for your arm to get at the manifold bolts. Didn't have to remove them on the driver side. Also didn't remove my spark plugs. Although I will admit the transmission being out did allow for me to see enough to keep from breaking them. You should most likely remove them.
Both sides just slid right in. At one point though the passenger side looked like there was no way it would get in there, then I just took a second twisted it real slow in different directions and boom it when in there like I'd done it a million times.
I had stock stuff out and new long tubes in and torqued in about 3 hours. Soaking the lower exhaust bolts that you will need to remove in PB worked great for me. I sprayed them and let it sit for about 5 min everything came apart as easy as you could expect. Cheater bar was needed.
02-07-2007, 10:46 AM
#13
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tulsa OK
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh yeah, No one in town had the GM gaskets so I went with some autozone felpros. I'll know if this was a mistake later this week. I'll put the tranny back in tonight and get it to the exhaust shop tomorrow.
