04gtoBMXracer

iTrader: (26)

about how much would you say you spent for the whole conversion including reareand
p.s. its a 99

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

That's a dangerous question. Depends on how deep you get into it. If you are doing a true LS1 out of a 98-02 fbody then it just depends on what you can do yourself. A true LS1 drivetrain out of a fbody will run about $3k or so. Truck drivetrains will cost less, but present more challenges. A vette drivetrain you will pay big bucks for and the setup the vette uses would definately be trick if you managed to make it work in a sdime but it would require extensive modifications to make work. If you do all the work yourself, it will cost you no more than 10k to get it done with a fbody motor and get it right and definately reliable. You might be able to do it for 5k with a truck setup and maybe a fbody setup, but I think that might be pushing it. I know I probiably spent close to 10k for my setup, but I had headers fabricated, had my oilpan chopped and welded (used a 5.3 pan) so it wouldn't hang below the frame. I also installed a set of ported and polished cylinder heads, a aftermarket cam ect ect. Also are you going to keep it emissions legal and so on. There is alot to consider with cost. A good rule to use is get a estimate in mind, do your homework on exactly what you want to do and double it and that is probiably your budget. The more you can do yourself the cheaper it will be, but things like exhaust and welding of things like the frame and the oil pan and pickup tube I left to pros.

whitez28onspray

i have a 98 with a 6.0 in it i have 4300 in every thing including the truck and it runs 7.70 on the and 6.90 on spray but i still have stock rear with a spool i could have done it cheaper but i had 1850 in the motor

philntx

iTrader: (8)

Are you talking about a street legal truck with A/C or a street/strip racer?

New motor/Transmission or take-out?

Carbed or Injected?

You doing the work or farming it out?

Reusing the stock 4.3 radiator or custom cooling?

There are a lot of variables, each of which may significantly affect the price.

Are you saying that "you have a 99" and want to know what it would cost?

'JustDreamin'

To add to Phil's questions:

2wd or 4wd

What trans?

What motor (LS1 / 6 / 2 / LQ4 / LQ9 / LM7)


I've got $7k+ in my '99 Bravada conversion. But that includes the engine (6.0L LQ4), trans (80E), new tcase (NV146), new harness & programmed PCM. Basically everything from the radiator to the rear driveshaft was replaced. And I haven't got to changing the rear end or having a front driveshaft built yet.

'JustDreamin'

04gtoBMXracer

iTrader: (26)

its a 2wd, my dad just wants a stock ls1 and 6peed. nothing radical just somthing to mess around in. hes not gonna drive it much he just ran into some cash and wants to fix up his truck a little. he doesnt wanna do the work just take it somewhere. did you guys do the work yourself? any big problems... anything you would have done diffrent now that its done? thanks a lot guys

philntx

iTrader: (8)

You should figure around $4,500 for a good motor and T-56. (+ or -)

Find out what the estimated shop labor rate is in your area.
Multiply that by about 80-100 hours (depending on the experience of the shop)

Calculate the cost of the harness ($600-750)
Cooling system
Mounts/Exhaust

Somewhere around $10,000-$12,000 for a basic job done in a shop.

Just my estimate.

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

I remember reading that most shops will charge generally 10-12k in just labor alone...

So-GT0071

My engine swap was around 6 grand, more if you count the extra stuff done during the install.

I'd say double that or more if you are taking it to a shop to get it done.

If I was your dad, I'd do the swap myself or buy an F-body.

I really just can't imagine spending 15 grand or more for a basically stock ls1/rear end swapped S10 install.

But hey, your dad probably has more money to throw around then an 18 year old like myself.

s10-den

I know a guy that does ls1 swaps in a s10.....

So-GT0071

How much does he charge for them?? Just curious.

blackls1s10

Hey Guys, i just had my LS1 swap done in my s-10...but i having hella time with running an intake set up for it...any suggestions???

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

I ended up using an intake elbow designed for a international diesel truck. It is called a close radius 90 or something like that. http://www.geocities.com/jays_s10/LS1almostdone2.JPG

Jones'n

I know a guy also, typically around $3k in labor if I remember correctly for a basic install.

Jhankinson

iTrader: (1)

I used the reducer 90 from intakehoses.com and then a piece of aluminum pipe...works great for me.

blackls1s10

i do have the 4inch to 3.5 in reducing 90 elbow from intakehoses.com, but the problem i am having is the stainless pipe i got after that is rubbing on the top of the radiator hose (on drivers side) and pushing the hose into the power steering pump belt...and how do u deal with hood clearance...could u guys send me some pics? if so i'll post my e-mail address.

And headers?? ...how do you clear the steering shaft....mine practically rubs on the stock manifolds heat shield...

You guys are great..thanks for the help!!!

Jhankinson

iTrader: (1)

Take off the heat shield...thats what I did. I ran my intake to the Pass side...and moved the battery to the bed. So I cant help you going that route. Ill post a pic of mine...if it helps you any. I dont have ANY hood clearance issues going the pass side way.

blackls1s10

i see, your motor came out of a corvette mine was out of a 98 trans am and the water pump pully is in the way for me to run it the way you did. thanks for the help..if anyone else has suggestions i would listen. and how did u post pics like that...i would put some pics up too

So-GT0071

You can kinda see how my intake is ran...Although My truck is a 92 so not sure, there may be some little differences....My battery is in the bed, so the intake is ran over to the passenger side then down below the headlight so it gets as much fresh air as possible.



As for headers, mine just have a very slight indent for where the steering shaft gets close. It is still very close, but doesn't rub at all.

s10-den

$3000 for auto......$3500 for 6 speed(labor only!) lsx motors