Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

drill mod & bleeding not going so well

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-09-2007, 11:51 PM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
slayer_taunu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Dallas, TX / Boston, MA
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Unhappy drill mod & bleeding not going so well

did the drill mod and i'm now trying to bleed the system.

fluid is going through the system, but the pedal isnt getting any stiffer. is it possible that I damaged the master while bench bleeding and/or R&R'ing it?

i tried searching on this, and a few other people had the same problem bleeding, but didnt really get their questions answered.
Old 02-10-2007, 12:25 AM
  #2  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Proud2bSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

How are you bleeding the system? To do it right, I needed another person to help in the driver seat, while I was underneath opening and closing the bleeder nut. Once that didn"t work, I moved on to the next level.

The following is from the GM manual for our cars: Remove the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir and make sure that the fluid level does not drop too low. I put some rags around the reservoir to keep from getting fluid on the car (brake fluid eats paint). Have someone pump the clutch peddle (vigorously) for about 30 to 60 seconds, while you are watching for air bubbles to rise. You may need to do this a couple of times, depending on how much air is in the system. Replace the reservoir cap and check the system.
Old 02-10-2007, 09:57 AM
  #3  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
slayer_taunu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Dallas, TX / Boston, MA
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

do that while the bleeder is open or closed?

the method i was using was:
1. clutch in
2. open bleeder
3. wait a few seconds
4. close bleeder
5. clutch out
6. wait a few seconds
repeat.
Old 02-10-2007, 10:56 AM
  #4  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Proud2bSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by slayer_taunu
do that while the bleeder is open or closed?

the method i was using was:
1. clutch in
2. open bleeder
3. wait a few seconds
4. close bleeder
5. clutch out
6. wait a few seconds
repeat.
^
^
^
This method works...sometimes....sometimes not. It is the first method in the GM manuals.

I have had very good success with the other GM manual method I mentioned earlier. And keep the transmission bleeder closed.
Old 02-10-2007, 11:01 AM
  #5  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
slayer_taunu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Dallas, TX / Boston, MA
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

i tried your method (both with bleeder open and closed). i never see bubbles in the resivoir, but the fluid level does go down (when the bleeder was open).

the pedal pressure never changes. it has enough pressure to come back up on its own, but not enough to open the clutch.

i'm still thinking that we damaged the seals in the master when bench bleeding
Old 02-10-2007, 12:11 PM
  #6  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Proud2bSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hmmmm..could be the master or the slave.

I have done two drill mods (mine and a friend's) and we never had that issue.

The master would be easier at this point to replace. Hopefully it's that and you don't have to pull the tranny again to replace the slave.
Old 02-10-2007, 01:16 PM
  #7  
9 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
N2O-ARMD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Berwick, PA.
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If your still having problems you might want to just buy a new line I bought one from mcload you don't need to do any mods just change the fitting in the master and blead the system.
Old 02-11-2007, 08:43 PM
  #8  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
slayer_taunu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Dallas, TX / Boston, MA
Posts: 2,169
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Proud2bSS
Hmmmm..could be the master or the slave.
eh... doubt its the slave. had no issues with general clutch pressure before the drill mod. and after all the bleeding i've done (gone through over half a large bottle of fluid), you'd think i'd get at least SOME pressure back.

car is still under warranty, so i'll pull ye 'ole "went to start the car one day and the clutch had no pressure" and see if i can get the master replaced under warranty.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:07 PM.