Vacuum diagram for LS1...
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Vacuum diagram for LS1...
Does anyone have a vacuum diagram from the service manual for a 2001 Camaro? I have a vacuum leak between the connection going to the firewall to the AC and further inward into the car. I know my vacuum is fine external to that. Any help would be appreciated.
Justin.
Justin.
#3
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Pull her apart and check it out. The panel under the glove box is removeable, and you'll see a bunch of vacuum hoses that look like 10guage wire. They are yellow/red/etc. and have what looks like weatherpack connectors.
Also, there's a vacuum canister up behind/below the passenger side headlight somewhere, it may be a problem too.
Also, there's a vacuum canister up behind/below the passenger side headlight somewhere, it may be a problem too.
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I was just uneasy about pulling that apart because the books I've read says there's a trip to the airbags, and I'd rather not set that off.
However, I don't have that panel on my car anymore (for some reason it broke). Looking at those lines, there are different colored vacuum hoses? Hmm, I'm going to have to check it out and then get back to ya. Thanks for the help.
However, I don't have that panel on my car anymore (for some reason it broke). Looking at those lines, there are different colored vacuum hoses? Hmm, I'm going to have to check it out and then get back to ya. Thanks for the help.
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Here's a pic of the ac/heater controls and vucuum lines. #17 is the group of vacuum lines that split up from the firewall connector #18 and go to different vacuum sensors and switches inside the car. This is from a Firebird manual. but should be the same for a Camaro.
Last edited by HavATampa; 05-31-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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THAT IS AWESOME! Thanks.
Do you have a breakdown of the number system? I didn't know if that was included in the book. If not, well, that's okay, I can toy around w/ this all day.
Justin.
Do you have a breakdown of the number system? I didn't know if that was included in the book. If not, well, that's okay, I can toy around w/ this all day.
Justin.
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I don't know how to merge the pages into one, but here's the diagram and the parts breakdown for that image split into 3 pages.
And I explained it backwards earlier. Vacuum line #17 comes through the firewall and connects to #18 which connects to the interior control ***** and then spreads out to all the relays and switchs for the ac/heater controls.
And I explained it backwards earlier. Vacuum line #17 comes through the firewall and connects to #18 which connects to the interior control ***** and then spreads out to all the relays and switchs for the ac/heater controls.
Last edited by HavATampa; 05-31-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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Now I can see it better, I was looking at it through the way you initially described it and made an assumption. It looks like I have a bit more vacuum tubing than I originally expected, but I think that I can figure it out. And I do agree, it should be pretty much the same between Camaros and Firebirds.
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The actual problem is ... I have my boost gauge hooked up the same way since I put the turbo system on the car. For some reason, yet to be determined, it went from reading 12" of vacuum at idle to 6" of vacuum at idle almost over night. I started messing around w/ my vacuum lines and when I took off the "T" that was going to the firewall and capped it I gained that 6" back (which is back to my original 12) but the way it drives seems a lot stronger. When I'm driving w/o my foot on the pedal i'm seeing between 18 and 19" of vacuum, whereas, before I only saw maybe 14" maximum. Sounds to me like I have a problem w/ a vacuum leak behind my firewall. But that's just me.
And to answer your question, yes the AC controls will operate the diverter if I have the "T" in the place it's been for the last year and a half.
And to answer your question, yes the AC controls will operate the diverter if I have the "T" in the place it's been for the last year and a half.
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Yeah, I checked it. I disconnected the T on both sides (the side going to the firewall and the side going to the canister) and only the one going to the firewall showed any improvement when I plugged that side up.
#16
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Might try the old Carb Spray method.. take a can of carb cleaner and spray it over the fitting, ends, etc with a little at a time while the car is running.. if you hit a leak.. the rpm and vacumm should change for a second or two.
Other option is to use a vacumn pump on the system and listen for the leak or??? that way the engine doesn't have to be running.
Good luck
Other option is to use a vacumn pump on the system and listen for the leak or??? that way the engine doesn't have to be running.
Good luck