calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

My high octane table is pretty screwed up from the shop that had previously tuned my car. I'm trying to get it straigened out, but am not exactly sure how. The tuning FAQ's that I've read say add 5* to the stock table and check for knock. If you have knock, go and take timing out of those area's. This is fine, but it is not what I have seen in the tunes that I have seen.
Examples:

Stock '01 Timing table:



Timing table from a mail order tune done by a sponsor I downloaded:



And the difference:



Obviously the tuner did not just add 5* to the entire table. What is the proper way to determine where to add timing and where not to? What needs to be logged to determine this.

Obviously I am new to tuning. I'm trying to get a grasp on the proper way to do things.

TIA,

Craig

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

What mods do you have done? I'm guessing a cam at least. Usually, 27* is a good place to start for WOT assuming fueling is in a good spot. I like to blend it in though, not just add in 10* right off the bat. If you have a stall, it really won't matter that much. But, if it's locked up and hits some of the lower cells, it could feel like it fell on it's face. I posted my timing table in another thread (in HPT format even...thanks to EFILive's conversion tool). If you have Excel, you can see where it's at. (mods = 232/238 cam w/ P&P'd 241's) timing.xls

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I have a 233/239 cam w/ a 4000 stall.

I see that you didn't just add 10*. I don't really understand how you say you blended it though. Some places you added quite a lot of timing, other places you made no changes. How do you pick and choose where to add timing?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

I have an M6, so I have to allow for lower rpm timing whereas your stall will shoot you to a certain point on the table. With aftermarket cam'd cars, a useful starting point is with the '99/'00 timing tables. If you look at the comparison, I've added roughly 1~4* of timing in the normal driving rpms (1400~3200). I don't spend too much time above 3200rpm in the lower airflow ranges, so they're pretty much stock and decent enough to be left alone. WOT, again, was based off of the '00 tables. After a little time on the dyno, I could see where my timing was, plot it against my HP/TQ output, and adjust as needed. The guy who had originally tuned my car (prev. owner took it to a sponsor shop in PA) had WOT close, but it was low in a few spots (25*...not to mention it was running lean). I adjusted accordingly and didn't see any KR. I haven't been back on a dyno yet, but it felt good & pulled great when I took it out last weekend. Down low, he really had the timing off. So, my part throttle timing you see is my own creation and it feels a lot better, this time with no KR down low.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, I haven't seen a 99 or a 00 stock timing table, I'll have to dig one up.

So the best thing to do would be to log some normal driving, and a couple WOT passes and see what area I'm in as far as air flow & RPMs and only make changes in those cells?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Yup...make sure you capture as many driving conditions as possible (light, moderate, heavy throttle, torque converter locked/unlocked, etc.).

JMBLOWNWS6

iTrader: (17)

Thats the main problem with mail order tunes. While some people get the tune very close its always best to have the tune done inhouse. Mind you I am not bashing mail order tunes. I just perfer the a dyno tune for WOT passes and load up the LM-1 and some stop and go driving for the street tune