Koni SA's.. Adjusting Problem.. Suggestions?
03-10-2007, 04:33 AM
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Koni SA's.. Adjusting Problem.. Suggestions? Hi,
Please help!!!
I have just replaced my stock ss springs with Srano's springs. I would now like to adjust the settings of my Koni shocks.
The front passenger side is easily adjusted, but the drivers side simply will not adjsut.... most likely due to rust
.
Any idea's as to what I need to do, in order to make the driver side adjustable again? Has anyone else had similiar issues?
2 of the attached pictures show the rusted (drivers side) shock and the other 2 show the non rusted (passenger side)...
Please help
Please help!!!
I have just replaced my stock ss springs with Srano's springs. I would now like to adjust the settings of my Koni shocks.
The front passenger side is easily adjusted, but the drivers side simply will not adjsut.... most likely due to rust
. Any idea's as to what I need to do, in order to make the driver side adjustable again? Has anyone else had similiar issues?
2 of the attached pictures show the rusted (drivers side) shock and the other 2 show the non rusted (passenger side)...
Please help
03-10-2007, 08:05 AM
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Hi,
Actually, I personally did not install the new springs... I am working abroad (Italy) and live in England, therefore do not have access to my garage equipment, so I took the car to a GM dealer about an hour or so from work. I checked and double checked at their shop to ensure the adjustment window was in the correct alignment, but didn't try to adjust the shocks until I got back to the place I'm staying at.
I'm just using a long handled 2.5mm allen key. It doesn't have the strength to really pull on it with lots of weight. I've just bought a T handled allen key, so will try that... plus managed to find some WD-40 here in Milan, so will see if that helps to loosen it.
Thanks,
UKCamaroSS
Actually, I personally did not install the new springs... I am working abroad (Italy) and live in England, therefore do not have access to my garage equipment, so I took the car to a GM dealer about an hour or so from work. I checked and double checked at their shop to ensure the adjustment window was in the correct alignment, but didn't try to adjust the shocks until I got back to the place I'm staying at.
I'm just using a long handled 2.5mm allen key. It doesn't have the strength to really pull on it with lots of weight. I've just bought a T handled allen key, so will try that... plus managed to find some WD-40 here in Milan, so will see if that helps to loosen it.
Thanks,
UKCamaroSS
03-10-2007, 09:06 AM
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It could just be a leverage problem. If you're not already, use the shorter end of the allen key. Wrap your fingers around the long handle, then put your thumb over the bend in the key. Push down with your thumb (toward the shock) then pull up with your fingers on the handle and slide to the left or right.
My 2.5mm allen key is bent from where I tried to use the long end. There's just not enough leverage there.
Maybe this helps?
The one on the left has never worked for me. The one on the right always has.
-Mike
My 2.5mm allen key is bent from where I tried to use the long end. There's just not enough leverage there.
Maybe this helps?
The one on the left has never worked for me. The one on the right always has.
-Mike
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03-11-2007, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Weezzer
Where is the thick washer thats supposed to be between the rubber mount and the shock?
They aren't assembled right thats for sure.
They aren't assembled right thats for sure.
03-11-2007, 10:48 AM
#9
Weezer is right. They didn't put the shocks together properly. These shocks looks like they've been sitting at the bottom of the ocean. Curious as to why anyone would bring parts to a dealer to install. Any competent shop can do this, even overseas. Looks like you should have cleaned these things up before getting them installed.
Originally Posted by Weezzer
Where is the thick washer thats supposed to be between the rubber mount and the shock?
They aren't assembled right thats for sure.
They aren't assembled right thats for sure.
03-11-2007, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HavATampa
Weezer is right. They didn't put the shocks together properly. These shocks looks like they've been sitting at the bottom of the ocean. Curious as to why anyone would bring parts to a dealer to install. Any competent shop can do this, even overseas. Looks like you should have cleaned these things up before getting them installed.
I went to a GM dealer here in Italy, as I don't speak Italian... and they do speak english at the GM dealer... also I figured it would be safer to get someone familiar with the car to work on it... when I lived in the UK, most local component shops wouldn't touch my Camaro. Their reasoning was... "if we break a part, there is no way we can get spares"... luckily in the UK I lived near a US airforce base, so I was able to get the work done there.
Well anyways, I suppose I will need to but another Koni shock now
At $250, plus $100 shipping, plus $100 import tax, plus $65 per hour labour charge.... damn this sucks 
03-13-2007, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 98ws61le
kind of off topic... but how do you like sam's springs verses the original SS springs... I'm assuming the SS were the 1le springs (360 front)
I already have quite a few suspension upgrades (see sig), but even so, the car feels so much better... to me anyways. For what it is worth, I highly recommend them....
03-13-2007, 08:54 AM
#13
The Koni's have a lifetime warranty on them. I would call up Koni and ask them about it and make sure rust is covered. At the very least you can order a new shock first and swap them. Then send back the old shock for warranty. There is a distributor there in Italy. Go here and find a good location:
http://www.koni.com/
That should save you a lot of money.
Oh yes, WD40 is a penetrant and not really an lubricant. I would also try using some lubricating oil and let it soak in.
What the big washer, that is missing on your setup, does is distribute the load of the shock to the vehicle chassis. The rubber part facing down with the 4 tabs on it is actually steel inside and is designed to hold the top of the shock rod solidly.
Here's what it looks like:
The blue section is a steel cylinder and the green area is rubber. The area outside of the green is steel with a rubber coating. Without the washer, the shock is moving the blue area (that it's bolted to) up and down with every bump. Eventually this green rubber area will break and the shock will no longer work. The shock would probably be ruined as well. Even right now your not getting the control from the shock that you should be. I would fix both sides as soon as possible.
BTW, the reason it is designed like this is because the shock rod has to tilt a little bit as the suspension moves up and down, but at the same time it can't move. Only tilt. A better solution would be a rod end, but then it would transfer a lot of harshness so the factory tried to make a good compromise.
http://www.koni.com/
That should save you a lot of money.
Oh yes, WD40 is a penetrant and not really an lubricant. I would also try using some lubricating oil and let it soak in.
What the big washer, that is missing on your setup, does is distribute the load of the shock to the vehicle chassis. The rubber part facing down with the 4 tabs on it is actually steel inside and is designed to hold the top of the shock rod solidly.
Here's what it looks like:
The blue section is a steel cylinder and the green area is rubber. The area outside of the green is steel with a rubber coating. Without the washer, the shock is moving the blue area (that it's bolted to) up and down with every bump. Eventually this green rubber area will break and the shock will no longer work. The shock would probably be ruined as well. Even right now your not getting the control from the shock that you should be. I would fix both sides as soon as possible.
BTW, the reason it is designed like this is because the shock rod has to tilt a little bit as the suspension moves up and down, but at the same time it can't move. Only tilt. A better solution would be a rod end, but then it would transfer a lot of harshness so the factory tried to make a good compromise.
Last edited by JasonWW; 03-13-2007 at 09:06 AM.
03-13-2007, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
What the big washer, that is missing on your setup, does is distribute the load of the shock to the vehicle chassis. The rubber part facing down with the 4 tabs on it is actually steel inside and is designed to hold the top of the shock rod solidly.
The blue section is a steel cylinder and the green area is rubber. The area outside of the green is steel with a rubber coating. Without the washer, the shock is moving the blue area (that it's bolted to) up and down with every bump. Eventually this green rubber area will break and the shock will no longer work. The shock would probably be ruined as well. Even right now your not getting the control from the shock that you should be. I would fix both sides as soon as possible.
BTW, the reason it is designed like this is because the shock rod has to tilt a little bit as the suspension moves up and down, but at the same time it can't move. Only tilt. A better solution would be a rod end, but then it would transfer a lot of harshness so the factory tried to make a good compromise.
Thank you very, very much for this.... I will have a look for the Italian distributor. This info has helped alot.
1 question about what you said:
What is the name given to the rubber part with the 4 tabs on it, shown in your pictures? I would like to go ahead and get some replacements of these, just to be safe!!
Thanks again,
UKCamaroSS
03-13-2007, 11:39 AM
#15
I think their called the "upper spring perch" or maybe the "upper shock mount". Either term should work. Or just print out the picture I posted and email it to the place or take it with you when you go to get the part.
There is also another smaller part that fits into the top of the perch. It keeps the shock rod from pulling down and is rubber coated steel. The flat washer your missing is what keeps the shock rod from pushing up. Yeah, that's it. It's been a while since I messed with these parts.
There is also another smaller part that fits into the top of the perch. It keeps the shock rod from pulling down and is rubber coated steel. The flat washer your missing is what keeps the shock rod from pushing up. Yeah, that's it. It's been a while since I messed with these parts.
