TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Ok, so i had my car back at the shop and we accomplished nothing

here is my problem.. i have terrible warm starts. My IAC will not reset to 310. we have tried every god damn thing possible. How do you fix the IAC??

so here is what we tried yesterday. tried the throttle stop screw. we unscrewed it so that more air would get in on start up. Viola.. warm start was fixed. that biatch started right up. But you fix one thing and another thing happens.. My car used to idle at 850 - 870. now it idles at 1000 - 1100 and when driving i have idle hang.

so we turned the screw back down. got my idle back to where it should be, no more idle hang, but know coming to a stop the idle surges. dips down to 400, up to 1000 back down 400 up to 1000 then finally it holds... SO WTF!!!!!!


So i put the screw back up a bit. little better of a warm start, no idle hang and no dipping.. so i am getting pissed now.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

You are having too many issues man. I just got my setup running yesterday and it holds a fine idle with just a few settings changed, lol.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

The set screw is only part of the equation. The Desired Airflow tables work in conjunction with the set screw position. Spark is also a factor. What software are you using?

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

using HP Tuners.... WTF!!

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

thanks for rubbing it in Brad

hey BTW i poted my sound clips in the externa section and multi media section.. take a look

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Sorry man, ill go listen to them in a minute. I have to get a clip of mine up soon too. I hope the tuning starts to work out for ya soon. Read this, it shows what i did and it seems to have worked great for me. And I just tweaked the set screw a little bit too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/673147-idle-tuning-ls1-edit-sorry-asking-i-searched-though.html

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Don't forget to do the TPS reset (unplug the tps w/key on) each time you adjust the set screw.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Once your Base Running Airflow is dialed in, you should adjust the set screw to bring IAC counts into a 60~70 step range at a warm idle. Start-up issues need to be addressed in the start-up tables. In order to help my '01 start easier, I added 4 grams/sec to the start-up friction airflow correction table. Now on warm starts (coolant temps greater than 111*F), it purs like a kitten because the IAC is allowing 7~9 grams/sec of airflow after start-up instead of the 3~5 grams/second that it used to. It's really easy to find in EFILive (Engine>Idle>Start-Up directory). Hopefully, HPT has it in an easy to find place too. Maybe one of the HPT guys could tell you where to find this table???

foff667

iTrader: (2)

Looks like its under Engine-Idle-Idle Airflow...frictional airflow initial.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Thanks!

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

i never did that.. was i supposed to obviously....

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

yea man that warm start with the coolant is killing me. but when i tuned the idle set screw to opne the TB blade up it started fine.. but then i got idle hang...

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

The set screw will cause problems if opened too far - it's not the solution. Open it so the IAC reads 60~70 at idle (at operating temps) and fix the warm starts in the PCM. The tuner should be able to find this table if he's using HPT:
Getting the IAC to read 310 steps has nothing to do with your problem in my opinion. You need more airflow after initial startup. This table will give you that. The extra airflow will decay out after a few seconds once the car is up and running well enough on it's own.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I've always done this (and always do) but check this out... On 2 cars now that had cams tossed in that I tuned, the guys jacked the TB screw open to help them out getting the car to me to get it tuned, and in both cases, the TPS had reset itself. Both of them had moved it so far that they had idle hang and massive "cruise control" but the scanner showed 0%TPS when the cars got to me and neither guy did the reset.

Just something I noticed and thought I'd pass along.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

right now i think the set screw is fine...

At operating temp 168*, the IAC reads 45 - 65 at idle..

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

i swear that i am running rich.. reason being is that at idle, coming out of both tips there is a some hint of a whitish smoke... it smells like raw fuel too.. i did pull 3 codes with my 02s (P0140, P0155, P0160)

bank 2 is +2 then bank 1 was +8 on the long term fuel trim. So they are off.. I think that my 02s are bad...

i filled up yesterday on 93 octane, drove 75 miles, and i am at a half tank. that was not really going above 3K rpms...

This cam is killing me....

can the cut of 110 be the cause of all my problems.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Man i got my setup up and running today with a blind idle tune and my car does normal cruising like a stock car, lol, well except for the loudness. No bucking, surging or cruise control. As matter of fact i hit the highway and set my criuse at 60Mph in 6th gear and it criused just like a stock car, lol.

read my thread in the internal forum man

Go get a cam like mine man 232/236 112 LSA XE lobes FTW!!!!

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

A large amount of overlap can create some poor idling conditions due to the fact that it introduces false amounts of oxygen into the exhaust. However, the issues you have on start-up are seperate. The car will want to run rich if it's trying to listen to the NBO2's. There's no getting around that unless you force it into open loop for idle conditions. That will either require tweaking the PE somehow so that it allows open loop at idle or you'll need to load a custom operating system.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

SSspdmon,
I would guess it is better to run wideband sensors to simulate the narrowbands right? I am running kinda rich at idle due to my overlap (10 degrees). Widebands in place of the narrowbands would help to clear this up right?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

If the sensors are working right, then they're going to read the same...NBO2's a little more accurate than the WB's....but, mostly the same. Now, what you might be able to do is custom program the WBO2 voltage output so they switch around 15.5:1. But, then you would have to significantly lower the PE TP% enablers because 15.5:1 is too lean for higher loads while still in PE. Besides, I think the costs would outweigh the benefits at the end of the day. I'd much rather buy 1 WBO2 and a guage to monitor the car while it's in open loop full time.