Grimery

iTrader: (1)

My car thus far:

2001 WS6 M6 65,000 miles

Mods:
SLP Lid
SLP cat-back


I have been reading these forums for around a month everyday, read about different cams, heads, practically every thread.


I'm looking to take my car in its current form, and modify it to produce in the 400-450 RWHP range, and keep it reliable at the same time. It is a daily driven car (no FI)

I would appreciate it if maybe I could get some basic "kit" type ideas of where to go with this.

This car will never see the drag strip.


I would also appreciate details on what to expect to change in the way the car behaves on the street, example being what a bigger cam would cause. I've read a lot about the MS4 and the T-rex, some people are saying it's easy to daily drive, others are saying it's crazy.


Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

baldurann

iTrader: (15)

Copy Patrick G's setup.

mcamarols1

iTrader: (9)

^^^ what he said

or mine w/ a fast90/90, a UD pulley, mill the heads for more compression,


minus the msd coils though

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

What your looking for is a head/cam setup that is not a max effort. dont get an ms4 or trex or my cam. Ideal off the shelf inexpensive extremely dependable setup for you would be TSP prc 5.3 ltre stage 2.5 heads. a tr224 cam and an ls6 intake is fine. You'll be in the 420-450 hp range without losing any bottom end torque at all. It is about one of the best combinations you can do without having a cam ground. The PRC heads with their double spring setup wont need attention for a long time. This will be an extremely dependable daily driver with all the power under the curve. You cant go wrong with it. You can go with a bigger cam but you dont need to at all.
trex is stupid in this case as is an ms4. Anyone who tells you a trex is stupid.
I ran a tr224/prc combo and now run an edelbrock head 234/240 hi lift cam combo.
I had the heads milled to bring the compression up to not lose as much bottom end torque but I still lost some. Big cams aren't a good choice for a dd pure street car.
Only reason to put a big cam in is for the track. Lope can be had without shoving a trex in there. Your gonna need long tubes as well.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

He already has the LS6 manifold (car is an 01).

Are you talking about doing the wrenching yourself or having it done? Have you dyno'd the car yet? You could do a cam & spring swap and some good headers (Kooks perhaps) and be at your goal. 400 RWHP is easily doable, probably under $2,000 depending on what you select. You'll obvious want to give your car a compression check to see what state the engine is in. Since you are driving it only on the street, I wouldn't focus so much on the horsepower as the torque. You don't want to incur a loss going from stoplight to stoplight. The car is always going to have good top end, but you don't want to have to spin it to 6500 to make power.

As for a question of drivability, a lot of that is in the tune. A good tune will let you get away with a pretty lot, also having an M6 helps. Another thing to keep in mind is that the clutch is going to need to be replaced as the stock clutch is crap.

I'd tell you to go with something like the TR224/114, a set of Comp 918 springs, good 7.4" pushrods, and some Kooks 1 3/4" Headers and 3" y-pipe. I'm sure others will come along with their own thoughts on the subject, some probably more qualified than I, but this is just my personal feeling.

JBsZ06

I would do a small 224/228 114 lsa cam, tsp ls6 cnc heads or I've read about the 5.3 worked heads, headers and you should be around 425 rwhp?

The only compromise to daily driving is that every 20K miles you should change out the dual valve springs...

I believe its about 300 to replace the springs every 20K miles.

Grimery

iTrader: (1)

So am I right in assuming my mod path should be:

1. Headers
2. Clutch
3. H/C


Thanks for all of the information, much appreciated.

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

That's a good method, except I would do the clutch first, and do the heads, cam and headers all at once just for the sake of ease.

00slowredz

you may want to look into a different catback if you're doing headers and ory. unless you like it to be ridiculously loud and raspy ALL THE TIME. just my .02

Grimery

iTrader: (1)

Will be using a catted Y pipe, no ORY

PunkNPonys

iTrader: (2)

Well if it were me i would not worry about the clutch at this time. It doesnt seem like you are going to be racing the car very much. I would finish buying all the bolt-ons, such as ported TB, pulley, etc. Then after you have done that like stated above 224 cam or maybe even 228 with some nice heads would be a great combo for you. Goodluck

98ws61le

hey i have 400 rwhp and 400 rwt.. very reliable and very street-able... idle is near stock but you can still tell i have a cam in it....the motor is almost completely converted to an ls6 expect for the catek m cam (218/224 114LSA and .560 lift)... kooks headers and the catted y-pipe to pass the visual state inspection and a few other small bolt ons ( I'll break it down if you like ).... i totally love it... i think i have more fun cruising around in the street then i would ever have at a drag... best of luck

98ws61le

PS i still have the stock clutch but when its the time ill do the ls2 clutch package with the updated hydraulics.... i also have the slp cat back the dual dual not the loudmouth... it did get a touch louder with the kooks but nothing obscene...very kool to my ears.... and honestly on the highway it sounds stock at 65mph

JBsZ06

I don't see why you need to do the clutch for 450 rwhp if your not throwing drag radials on. How do you know you'll hit the 450 rwhp and have trouble with the clutch especially with street tires.

I would do the headers, heads and cam...and then afterward if you have issues with the clutch slipping then go after the clutch...(unless its time that your clutch is worn)

JMO (what happens if you just hit 420 rwhp and the existing clutch holds fine...?) Even at 450 rwhp the street tires

Just the way I would consider...

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I smoked my clutch with 375 rwhp and radials.

tuffass

If it's a loudmouth, I'd go w/ another set up when you get LT's. I had the LM and loved it w/ the stock manifolds but when i put LTs on it sounded horrible. I like loud but not when it sounds like ****!

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

He's already stated that he has the SLP Dual Dual, which is the quietest, best flowing catback available for the F-bodies. I have one with an ORY and it sounds great!

six8fbird

im looking for the same setup, mine is also a 01 whick has the ls6 intake. Is it worth the extra g & half for the fast setup? any help would be appreciated im sure the tread starter would not mine

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

A FAST intake can be had for around 725 brand new shipped and you can sell your LS6 manifold and stock TB and have just about enough $$ for the Nick Williams 90mm TB. I bought my FAST 720 shipped brand new and traded my LS6 and TB for the NW 90mm.

It dont take 1500 to get that setup.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I consider my 232/236 112LSA very daily driveable.