candlelit

iTrader: (21)

Here's the story. My car runs at about 420rwhp.
I am currently on my second 10 bolt.
The first one shot after about 500 miles of me hearing something wrong with it and noticing the oil on the ground. On this 2nd one, I haven't driven it REALLY hard or done hardly any burnouts. I've got on it a few times but I usually shift at 5000 rpms or less. I don't like doing that since I have a problem with my clutch hydraulics & having it hard to get in the next gear under rapid acceleration.

My problem:
So I bought a good 30k non-abused rear end and have put about 2000 miles on it. Just today I started noticing a soft, non-metallish, non-iron grinding sound from the back of my car and it sounds like it might be coming from the posi. The sound is almost like a tire going flat or a small airplane flying by. When accelerating, it really doesn't make the sound. But if I'm going faster than 35mph and let off on the gas, I hear the sound. One other thing to keep in note: for a couple of weeks I've noticed a sound coming from the wheels or the rear end only when I drive around curves. My car has 315s on the back and has wheel spacers. I haven't really noticed any oil on the ground under the back. Do you think this is a simple fix, such as a loose wheel spacer, or low on posi oil, perhaps I need my rear end re-aligned and get a adjustable panhard rod? My car is currently at stock height.

I would really want to get my car FI or a new forged block before the rearend first since I drive carefully. I just hope I don't need one until I would like to have one.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

no one?

DaddySS

What kind of posi unit? Did you change the oil when you installed it?

turbotko

It's the torsen diff making noise. Just took mine out and replaced it for a trutrac for exactly the same symptoms. Noise is completely gone.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

so if that's the case, it is the rear end. and just upgrading the differential to something really nice will take $1000. he 1st rear end had a Richmond Powertrax center and the rear also had upgraded racing axles. I might as well buy a new & complete 9" rear end for $1200 more.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

what year is the rear
93=98= auburn reqires limited slip addetive or it will make the noise you described
99 up torsen just uses gear oil

turbotko

$180 gears
$350 diff
$20 solid pinion spacer
$30 ARP stud kit
$100 install kit
$20 good diff fluid
$0 labor
= $700
Maybe throw in another $100 for used girdle.

That will get you close to the maximum strength of the 10 bolt without spending crazy money on it. If your an A4 and you know how to setup gears correctly that should take you deep in the 12's with no problem. If your a 6 speed, forget it.

A 12bolt/9inch setup will cost you $3000 properly setup. You can build that 10 bolt alot of times with all new parts for $3000.

candlelit

iTrader: (21)

a studded out 10 bolt won't hold what I'm going to do with my future mods (600+rwhp). oh and I'm a 6 speed. the rear end I have came from I think a 2001 WS6.