CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

I need some advice from the board gurus.
I bought a 2001Z06 longblock LS6 for a project C4 swap. Motor had 20k miles on it, was reported to be an "oil burner" with about 1qt per 1k miles. Bought knowing I'd probably re-ring it, and throw new bearings in it.

Got it on stand today pulled heads and cyl liners look very good. A bit of surface rust here and there, that some WD40 basically took off, and what didn't I think will come right off with running motor. Pulled one of the main caps and the crank looks great. Bearings look good except they are a bit "pock marked" I guess I would call it. Little tiny specs in them is best way to describe it.

So I'm wondering. I'll want to put new rings in it. question #1 is should I just put the oil control rings in the motor and leave the compresssion rings as they sit? I think this was the GM fix when the LS6's would fail the oil consumption test. Any preferences on brand of rings?

Next ?. What bearings are the best bang for the $$???

Do I need to replace the main cap bolts? Not sure if they are torque to yield like the heads?

I'll be replacing the rod bolts with ARP btw.

Plan is to put on ported lloyd elliot heads probably stage II LS1 heads and custom cam. Any thoughts there. Wanting alot of low end grunt with about 425-450whp.
Fast 90/90 being put on as well, #30fms inj, coated headers, off road x pipe. SLP underdrive.

pics of motor if it helps
thx

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

You are aware that a lot of ls1's burn a lot of oil through the PCV valve right? Just because it burns oil doesnt mean it the piston rings. It couls have been the PCV valve, valve oil seals, or the piston rings.

If you put new piston rings in you will need to take apart the entire block to make it bare and send it to a machine shop for a cylinder hone and since you have to take the main bearings out you will also need a line bore and a new set of main bearings too. I would use a set of federal-mogul bearings for the main and rod bearings. Buy new main bolts too, preferably ARP's.

You already have the best cast heads, just bhave them ported/polished.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

sold the heads already!
I'm aware of the PVC issues. I posted a thread outlining my dilema awhile back.
I took off one main last night to inspect the bearing and came away with what I stated above. Maybe I'll take it off again and shoot a pic.

I was debating running as is, but figure I should break down the motor anyway as a fair bit of dirt got in it, when the dealer removed it and installed the crate, and over time sitting in the crate, even though it was bagged. I found abit of dirt on the cam lobes that I sprayed off and re-oiled, the valley cover was left off of the motor so it allowed dirt down. I don't trust running the motor as is.

I really don't want to send motor to a machine shop as I don't trust any around me, and dont' have the time to drive it back and forth to bumblef&*k.

I think re-ringing it will be fine. Question is should I do both compression and oil rings or just the oil rings. I'm leaning towards the oil rings, but I could be talked out of it.

I'll get some prices together on main stud hardware etc...
thx

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I wouldnt pout any new rings in it without getting cylinder hone. You want that in order to ensure a good ring seal. You can go ahread and just put new oil seal rings in and you are risking it not sealing due to wear in the cylinder bore. Its up to you if you want to take that risk, I know i wouldnt risk it if I already had the internals out.

PREDATOR-Z

Listen to this guy, that is the way to do it.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

ugh ok!
who to trust though. Most of the shops around here don't know wtf an LS1 is. I really don't want bubba wrecking a nice LS6 block

PREDATOR-Z

There is something called freight shipping, or rent a truck and take a long drive.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

no time to drive it myself, work family etc...
I'll look/ask around for local machine shops someone might trust here.
thx

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Well doing a cylinder bore/hone doesnt really require LS1 experience, any machine shop that does block hones on the regular would probably be good. You could also have the block shipped to one of the sponsors here and they will make sure its done right.

PREDATOR-Z

Needs to be done witha trq plate

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Definetely make sure whoever does the bore/hone uses a torque plate, this will unsure that the cylinder stays aligned when the head is bolted down.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

By the time you do a full torque plate hone to the block the stock pistons will be to small. I'd just run it the way it was or slap a new ring pack on it after running a drill hone through it to break the glaze. Clean up everything else and run it. From what I read the stock main bolts are torque to angle NOT YIELD! They should be ok to reuse. I'd just run some stock new head bolts if this is just going to be a mild build up.

You have to decide how far to go. Start using ARP everything, torque plate honing, new bearings, etc, etc and the build up compounds and prices really add up.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

see that's my dilema
The car was $7k lol. I wanted to do this as a budget build, but I guess everyone knows how that goes.

I do appreciate all the advice either way. Gives me different perspectives to consider.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Sell the block while its working and use the proceeds to put towards a new forged shortblock already built. Thats the easiest way to get it done and wont completely break you.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

hehe
thought about it!
life just can't be easy can it

Damm crank bolt hates me as well

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

A long *** leverage bar will break it loose, long as in like 3 feet. Ans once you get that off youll have a real fun time getting the crank pulley off.

CoronaL

iTrader: (6)

no it's not that
I've done head cams on LS1 already
yeah the pulley is alot of fun.
The block is out of the car and no flexplate. Motor just spinds and 625ft/lb impact is just laughing at me .