Tools & Fabrication - My wooden ramps....work great!!!




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ghettocruiser
03-25-2007, 06:46 PM
Hey everybody... I just wanted to show some pics of the wooden ramps that I built. I got the idea from this website:

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm

That jumpstarted me on my quest to build them. I really hated trying to use a jack to get my car in the air. And ryhino ramps just dont cut it anymore. My car is lowered, and with the lightened flywheel, spec cluch, and alittle bit of cam lope...they are really difficult to get up. These are just like going up a hill. I used autocad, and my wheelbase to figure out how to make them just right. I made them taller than the ones on the mustang website.

If you make them like I did...they are HEAVY. Thats their only drawback. Im going to install handles to make them easier to pull around. If you make them my way, you will be able to build them out of 7 pieces of 2x10 lumber, at 10 feet long. You wont have any scrap left over. I wanted my rear tires to come up on the ramps some for two reasons. One, when I feel the rear tires come up, I know Im on the top level and I need to feel for the wheel stop. Two, So that it gave me some more space in the back to get the jack under the car.

Anyway, on to the pictures. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. Im sure Im not the only one who has made these...but I just wanted to show that I had good results. Anyone wanting the measurments that I used, let me know, and Ill post up a diagram.

Justin

P.S. Im working on a system to space the ramps properly, instead of using my eye. I wasnt centered perfectly on the ramps at all... I also wanted to mention, they feel very stable and when the car is up there, it seems rock solid. While pulling up on the ramps, their weight helps keep them from sliding. They never budge.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000640.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000641.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000643.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000644.jpg

Just a shot showing how the jack can easily be used on the rear to get it up in the air too.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000645.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000648.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000650.jpg


slow4.7on20s
03-25-2007, 07:19 PM
thats pretty neat how lond did it take u to make it

ghettocruiser
03-25-2007, 08:41 PM
Not long. About an hour...maybe less. That includes cutting the boards, and screwing them together. I chose to screw them together as opposed to nailing them. I figured they'd stay together better, and plus its easier than hammering in my opinion. I used 2.5" screws that were designed for pressure treated wood... Not sure what the difference is, but they are coated green, and seal once they are in. Something along those lines...

Im going to add that these ramps make doing simple things like changing the oil, or greasing steering, or whatever you need to "quickly" do much easier. You dont have to drive all the way up if you dont want to. You can stop short of the top level. The only disadvantage is they are heavy, and you need space due to their length. But I hate using a jack to get my front end up, and I hate rhino ramps...so this solution works great for me.

J.


red90cobra
03-26-2007, 12:31 AM
looks good. I thought bout it but I just don't have the space to put the wooden ramps anywhere.

ghettocruiser
03-26-2007, 07:08 AM
Yeah it is an issue. Thats why I got pressure treated wood. Otherwise, if I had to keep them indoors, it would be a no go.

Honestly, if these things last me til I re-do my exhaust, thats all I really ask of them. I know they will last much much longer, but thats the main reason I built them. Dropping headers and making a new y-pipe.

Im going to the hardware store today during lunch to try to find suitable handles for the moving these things. Im going to mount them at an angle that makes it natural to grab them. That should make it easier. Half the problem is getting a grip on them, because that usually means tipping them over, which is a tast in itself.

Thanks for the comments so far!

Justin

camaroextra
03-29-2007, 12:50 AM
brilliant. I just might have to make me some of those

Da Swami
03-29-2007, 01:17 AM
Ramps have always sketched me out due to my fear of driving up too far and rolling off the edge.


With your design can you sorta count the steps up to the top or are you still going by "feel?"

GrandmasterCow
03-29-2007, 01:29 AM
haha thats pretty neat

ghettocruiser
03-29-2007, 07:37 AM
Hey guys. You can easily tell when you are going up a level. I know Im on the top because I can feel my back tires come up onto the ramps. Also, since I took those pictures I put bigger wheel stops at the front. Another 2x3..and its much easier to tell you are up against it now.

I used them for real last night. Came up with an idea to use straps to keep the car from rolling while using a jack on the back. Thought it was a dumb idea at first...but I strapped it down, put it in neutral with the e-brake off and I couldnt get it to budge. So it seems to have worked out good. I installed handles for moving them, and I used 2.5" screws...so they are anchored in good.

Anyway here are some pics of them in action.

Here are the straps. The wood is there to keep the "buckle" off my wheel.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000666.jpg

This is after jacking up the rear to approx the same height as the front.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000665.jpg

Just showing how the tires never budged from the wheel stops. It wants to pull backwards due to my driveway not being smooth and letting the jack sink alittle. But the straps did their job and held it from moving.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000666.jpg

Lastly...just a shot to show how much room you get.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/S6000668.jpg


Yes...you loose access to the car from the side. So these wont be absolutly perfect for every job. however Im doing exhaust, so its exactly what I need. I had the entire car up in the "air" and the exhaust off in under an hour last night. So far so good!

Justin

SSJIMMY
03-29-2007, 08:36 AM
My dad has something like that but only 3 levels we just use it to get the cars high enough to get under and change the oil. but i like your idea too i may do that just not as long since I cant leave outside at my place. Cant wait to have a house and land so i can leave stuff where i want too.

Z'mnypit
03-29-2007, 09:17 AM
I made some out of 6x6's years ago. Not near as big or as heavy as those. Bought a single 6x6 and measured about 14in from one end then cut an angle down to the other end so you can drive up it. The whole thing is about 3.5ft long and weights 10lbs or so a piece.

goodrich969
03-29-2007, 12:45 PM
pretty damn clever man...patent it and become a millionaire haha

Lythropus
03-29-2007, 01:40 PM
I made some out of 6x6's years ago. Not near as big or as heavy as those. Bought a single 6x6 and measured about 14in from one end then cut an angle down to the other end so you can drive up it. The whole thing is about 3.5ft long and weights 10lbs or so a piece.

Something about that just doesn't sound safe, I think I'd much rather have a many level levels as opposed to a gradual incline.

I'd like to see some pics none-the-less.

Z'mnypit
03-29-2007, 02:53 PM
Something about that just doesn't sound safe, I think I'd much rather have a many level levels as opposed to a gradual incline.

I'd like to see some pics none-the-less.
No its flat on top just like a ramp, it goes up then flat. Sorry should have worded it differently. Only thing I use them for no is so the arms on my lift will slide under the car.

Nabdrill
03-29-2007, 04:15 PM
This a good idea to build off of. I have an enclosed trailer and this will be perfect to set under the gate and get the car in the trailer without scraping anywhere.

Like the two guys on the guiness commercials....... "Brilliant!!!!"

NHRAMAN
03-29-2007, 04:22 PM
EXCELLENT....looks very safe.... :devil:

Lythropus
03-30-2007, 08:56 PM
No its flat on top just like a ramp, it goes up then flat. Sorry should have worded it differently. Only thing I use them for no is so the arms on my lift will slide under the car.

Oh, I read it wrong... :chug:

PaulC
03-30-2007, 09:43 PM
Congrats , you've re-invented the ramp

JustAnIlluzion
03-30-2007, 09:51 PM
that is awesome, I thought about doing that but using cinder blocks for a permanent ramp in a garage

navymitch12
03-31-2007, 12:11 AM
nice little long....here is what my step dad has, they are great
little bigger then the cheap plastic ones and way stronger.

under the rear wheels
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c61/navymitch12/motor%20blown/P1070708.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c61/navymitch12/motor%20blown/P1070332.jpg

ghettocruiser
03-31-2007, 08:28 AM
navymitch12: Those look good! I would probably be ok backing up a set of smaller ramps...like the rhino ramps. But pulling foward onto them is a different story. if I manage to get my tires to hit the ramp before my front end, my tires usually push the ramps out of the way....or atleast out of alignment so that one is further ahead than the other. It doesnt help that im still a newbie at driving stick, and my cars set up is kinda against smooth driving. haha. Looks good though!

thanks for the compliments on what i did. Im going to try to use the jack and jack stands on the front now thats its on the ramp. I dont really need to for what Im doing...its more just to test the ramps out. Ill let you all know how that goes.

Justin

navymitch12
03-31-2007, 11:39 AM
yea, yours look a little easier to drive on cause its more of a gradual incline.

the wood ones dont slide like the plastic ones do which is another thing i like about them

ghettocruiser
04-18-2007, 07:24 AM
I had a couple requests for dimensions...so instead of just replying to each one I figured Ide just post the info up to make it easy.

Keep in mind you dont have to build them to the exact specs. But the way I have outlined makes no scrap wood and works out perfectly at 7 pcs of lumber. You could leave the last level off and you would only need 5 pcs then.

Here is a profile view of the ramps showing the boards, as well as the wheels relative to the boards. Only thing not shown is the taller wheel stop. Im leaving the wheel stop you to you, but two 2x3's nailed down work good for me.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/rampsideview.jpg

Here is a plan view of them, just to show basically how I screwed them together. I knew I didnt have to go overboard with screws, but I did the ones in the middle to help flatten the slightly curved pieces out. I used 2.5" screws for treated lumber. They have the green coating. Pleny of screw to hold them together.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/rampplanview.jpg

Finally, here is a basic materials list. If you have any trouble understanding it, let me know. But its pretty self explanitory. It shows the size of lumber I used, how many pieces, and where to cut each piece to make it come out even.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/Ramps/materials.jpg

If you have any questions feel free to ask, as well as if you have any suggestions for better ramps, or different ramps, feel free to upgrade the design.

Justin

Datzneat
04-19-2007, 04:26 PM
I didn't see anyone make this suggestion so I thought I would give my 2cents.
If you want to make sure that you always line up the ramps right the first time, just measure the distance between the fronts and the backs when you have it up on the ramp. You can write that number on the ramp for the next time and just use a tape measure to get the fronts and backs lined up. Takes a minute to measure, but can save you from an unpleasant surprise when your eyes decieve you.

ghettocruiser
04-19-2007, 05:27 PM
Thats pretty much how Im doing it. I line it up with the tires, then measure, then match the fronts. The problem isnt the spacing as much as being lined up with the car. Since my design has the rear wheels come up on the ramps, and since they are so long, if the ramps arent parallel to the cars track, it will get out of wack on the way up. You can correct alittle bit on the way up by steering.

Its not really a huge deal. Its a small inconvience when you consider that the ramps make other parts of the job easier.

Good call on the measuring tho. Thats probably how Ill keep doing it. I dont know how often Ill be using them, so I might not be able to justify putting more time into them.

Justin

2002ssls1
04-20-2007, 03:05 AM
I like this idea a lot, just wondering on the cost to build them?

99blancoSS
04-20-2007, 05:01 AM
scary is all I'm gonna say (jester smiley)

ghettocruiser
04-20-2007, 12:03 PM
I like this idea a lot, just wondering on the cost to build them?

I dont remember exactly...but I think I have around $80 into them. Now...that price is high because used pressure treated lumber (storing outside), and I got pressure treated lumber screws (coated green). Also that price includes the handles and the wheel chocks.

99blancoSS: does (jester smiley) = sarcastic smiley??? Just checking to make sure you dont actually think they are scary...


I put the car on all jack stands yesterday. I wanted side access. It was really easy to do because the ramps are under the tires. So they dont ubstruct the jack from getting under. I jacked it up alittle, slid in the jack stand, let it down, and it was about an inch off the ramp. PERFECT! Room to slide the ramp out, and slide it back in when Im done.

Justin

99blancoSS
04-20-2007, 04:46 PM
To me they're scary as in frightening. Driving up on them and then being trapped underneath the car with no side exit is what scares me about them.

Love the ingenuity and you did a great job on construction, but no way in hell you'll get me to do that. I use the factory jack to get it up enough to use my floor jack and then I place the car on 3 ton ramps and jack stands. I've stacked 2x4's on the ramps for extra height, but I'm paranoid laying on the ground under the car.

Dont like being trapped, would never have made it as a submariner... lol

Good work though, no disrespect intended!

ghettocruiser
04-20-2007, 07:05 PM
Gottcha. No offense taken. I understand how you could be nervous. Im the same way with rhino ramps. Plenty of people use them, but Ive had one fail before.

It is alittle closed in feeling. But I know the ramps cant crush. I know the car cant roll. And there isnt much chance of it falling to the sides.

Im not trying to say that I have your concerns about them covered and that you should feel safe under them...thats up to you. However, your concern is a concern of mine, which is why I think Im going to try to make 2/3 of the ramp removable. Allowing you to get in/out from the side. Its also kind of a pain to slide in and out from the front or back if you are gonna be up and down a lot. Not too bad if you are gonna be under there, do a job, then get out. Like an oil change...

Thanks for the feedback 99blancoSS!

J.

JGKadell
04-22-2007, 11:25 AM
those are similar to the ones I made. However, I used the dimensions from my friend. It uses a single board and leaves no wasted lumber.

ghettocruiser
04-22-2007, 07:47 PM
Got some pics or a drawing or something??

Mine didnt have any waste either. Except for the 2x3...because I had to get a longer piece, but only need a couple feet.

Justin

BJM
04-22-2007, 08:29 PM
Just for fun, here is how I change oil on my van. Because both sets of tires are on level platforms, the van doesn't roll at all. There is a wheel chock behind the far wheel. Your ramps are safe because the wheels are also on level pieces of the ramp.


http://www.greenfries.info/Random_images/030421c-small.JPG

Beaflag VonRathburg
04-25-2007, 11:15 PM
scary is all I'm gonna say (jester smiley)

Ever see the picture of JRP's old Camaro all jacked up. Now that thing was scary. I know someone has that picture.

99blancoSS
04-26-2007, 01:11 AM
Here is mine in the middle of lifting it for the last header swap.

2x4's stacked on the ramps in front you can just barely see. Kind of scary as well, but I can get out from under in a hurry :jest:

JGKadell
04-30-2007, 05:13 PM
this is the only pic I have for now. You really can't see the front ones well.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c305/JK1066/DSC01787.jpg

JGKadell
04-30-2007, 10:26 PM
I used a 2x8x8' for lighter weight for moving it around. A 2x10x8' can be used for wide tires.
Top 15"
2nd 19"
3rd 24"
bottom 38"

The reason why the bottom piece is longer is that when you roll up on it, the cars weight holds it in place while you make it to the top. It also raises the car about 2" to clear the low front spoilers on these cars, without hitting the steps of the ramp first.

Ron


Here are the specs

gollum
05-08-2007, 06:42 AM
Years ago HotRod or CarCraft magazine showed me how to build a smaller version that is much easier to carry. Sometimes I use all four...one under each tire.

ghettocruiser
05-08-2007, 07:49 AM
How do you get 4 separate ramps under the car???? More specifically, how do you get a ramps in front of the rear tires? They arent very high I assume?

I thought about making front ramps shorter and using smaller rear ramps to get a few inches of lift. But then I thought about having to line up 4 ramps instead of just two. So I just built them big heavy and stable.

Post some pics if you got em tho...

J.

BAD ASS TA WS6
05-08-2007, 01:00 PM
When I saw the title of the thread I was nervous...

Looks good though. Of course never rely on just the jack and put some jack stands under the rear!

Looks like it works very well for those not fortunate enough to have access to a lift!

gollum
05-08-2007, 01:29 PM
Years ago HotRod or CarCraft magazine showed me how to build a smaller version that is much easier to carry. Sometimes I use all four...one under each tire.

Here's a simple drawing of my version. These work real good with lowered cars, most store bought ramps have too much angle to clear front bottom of car. I use the three layer version for the rear tires.

Ramps are roughly 36" long...2"x 6" lumber will work but I used 2"x8" lumber.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/aviserated/RAMPS2.jpg

02SOMZ28
05-09-2007, 01:28 AM
Looks good. As for concerns about weight, I have seen the same thing used to level Motor Homes. Lot more weight and not a problem.

Suggestion for the wheel stop. Instead of stacking the 2x3s, use a 2x10 as high as the six boards plus whatever height stop. Should work out to (6 x 1 3/4 ") + 5" = 15 1/2". Screw the heck out of them to the ends of the 6 boards. Now instead of worrying about the 2x3"s rolling over, you have the strength of the 2x10 working for you.

As for the problems of setting up and aligning. Try this:
1. Set up and align the ramps. Use a tape measure, and a square. Make sure the front edges are in line with each other.
2. Get four screw eyes that are for wood. Get the kind with a closed circle on the end.
3. On the inside edges of the bottom (longest) boards put a screw eye 2" from each end.
4. Now we need to get two lengths of cord/rope/cable long enugh to form an X between those screw eyes mounted earlier. To make these cords removable, get 4 snap hooks.
5. Hook the snaplocks to the scre eyes, then hook the cords to the snap hooks. You do not want any slack in either cord.

Whenever you need to use the ramps, connect the cords to make the X. Set one ramp where you want it. Move the second ramp until neither cord has slack. Now the ramps are parralel and the correct width.

Of course, you could just do what I did in my garage:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb165/02somz28/DSC_5308.jpg

erikthegoalie
05-09-2007, 10:43 AM
my dad built the same ones...but without these instructions...they work but are HEAVY AS BALLS

Sage282
09-28-2007, 06:10 AM
Does anybody know if the 3rd and 4th gen wheelbase are the same? I'd like to make some of these this weekend but I want to make sure they're the right size ;)

ghettocruiser
09-28-2007, 07:47 AM
They are the same...or atleast very close. Close enough to work for you.

I can tell you they are the same or very close because an LS1, t56, and 4th gen rear will all fit right into a 3rd gen along with the 4th gen driveshaft. So...that puts them just about even.

Actually...the numbers 101"(3rd gen) and 101.1"(4th gen) stick out in my head...

J.

99blancoSS
09-28-2007, 07:54 AM
Of course, you could just do what I did in my garage:


Are you talking about the rusted out I'm a secretary car sky blue covered in bondo mod or the lift? :jest:

Sage282
09-28-2007, 11:00 AM
They are the same...or atleast very close. Close enough to work for you.

I can tell you they are the same or very close because an LS1, t56, and 4th gen rear will all fit right into a 3rd gen along with the 4th gen driveshaft. So...that puts them just about even.

Actually...the numbers 101"(3rd gen) and 101.1"(4th gen) stick out in my head...

J.

Awesome! Looks like i've got a new weekend project now :)

Sage282
09-29-2007, 01:37 PM
As far as getting them lined up, i know that for the most part i usually work on my car in the exact same spot on the driveway, so i was thinking that i would just get them all lined up and then use something to mark where the ends/corners are on the suface of the driveway :)

ErikElvis
10-04-2007, 04:03 AM
Im all about the wooden ramps. I made a set a long time ago for my eclipse. That thing has maybe a tad over an inch from the front bumper to the ground. But alas they are no more. One rotted away. Time to make some new ones.

Oh and as far as driving over them I had a couple small steps going down that I would feel if I overshot. Never really had a problem though.

worst drawing ever but you get the idea. It could get the cars high enough for cramped oil changes or to get a jack under there and lift it up to rhino ramps.

joblo1978
10-15-2007, 09:23 PM
Wow! Good idea! I bet they weigh about 1000 lbs. each though.