Oil Pan Clearance issue - 68 Camaro
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Oil Pan Clearance issue - 68 Camaro
As you can see, the pick-up tube is in the way of the steering linkage. I'm running SW headers, stock PS gearbox, S&P style mounts. Should I modify the pick up tube and make it longer to clear? Or is it better to just buy an aftermarket pan? Anyone else run into this problem?
#2
Had the same problem on my 69 camaro ls1 swap. My machinist bent the tube near the screen. Moved the p/u back about 1.5 in. On the side mount he made a bracket that bolts to the stud and the tapped the other end. Once the tube was bent I checked clearance before being weled up. Hope this helps John Also I think your motor mounts maybe upside down the 2 bolts go to the top.
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I'll bend it this weekend. That's a better idea than what I had, was not too sure if it will bend enough so I thinking of cutting the tube and welding piece of tubing to make if longer. Thanks for the suggestions
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#8
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I would take it to a welder and have them add an inch or two to the length of the tube so the is located in the middle of the sump. That way, if the oil starts sloshing around, you will have less of a chance of sucking up air. This is pretty critical – I wouldn’t mess with the oiling system any more than you have to.
-Dave
-Dave
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Whistler - Used the lip of the subframe as my origin, then measured to the outside of the steering linkage and added 1/2" for clearance and another 1/4" for the plate to be welded on the oil pan. Maybe the cut looks like it is too much because the plate has not been welded? Hope this doesnt take away too much oil.
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Had it cut on the cnc ONLY because the vertical mill was getting worked on. I got a 1/4" alum plate and transfered the mount holes to give it a good base when mounted in the cnc. You can also use the plate when you weld the cover to keep the pan from warping. You should get good results on the mill if a cnc is not available, just take your time with the cuts.
#14
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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When I notched my pan, my pickup tube needed exactly 1" of tubing to extend it. I fortunatly had an extra pickup tube, and I used a tubing cutter to cut exactly the needed material. I spot welded it with my MIG welder and then took it to another shop to TIG weld it, but he ended up MIG welding it which I could have done myself.
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I had both the truck & car pickups but neither would work w/o modification
I ended up making my f-body p/u long enough to sit right behind the baffle in the pan, i still bolted the top of the pickup to a different bolt and with the dipstick tube and oil sensor out i was able to see my clearance
I ended up making my f-body p/u long enough to sit right behind the baffle in the pan, i still bolted the top of the pickup to a different bolt and with the dipstick tube and oil sensor out i was able to see my clearance
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Just finished welding the oil pan and pickup. For the oil pan used a piece of 3/16" 5052 aluminum sheet metal bent @ 90 degrees. First tried 6061-t6 alum but it starts to crack at about 90 degrees when bending. 5052 is more ductile and bends to 90 no problem. Tack welded the piece to test and found no problems so finished welding all around. Tested with alcohol for leaks and didn't find any problems; hopefully it stays leak free! PS - A buddy of mine welded the pan, my welding sucks!
Notice the holes for the heat to escape on the jig plate
The pickup tube dimensions are 3/4 id x 7/8 od. Used a piece of 3/4 id x 1 od and had the inside of the ends turned down to 7/8 to slip over the pickup tube. Just tack welded for now. Oh yea, if you decide on cutting the pickup tube, dont forget to mark a line for alignment after cutting!
Notice the holes for the heat to escape on the jig plate
The pickup tube dimensions are 3/4 id x 7/8 od. Used a piece of 3/4 id x 1 od and had the inside of the ends turned down to 7/8 to slip over the pickup tube. Just tack welded for now. Oh yea, if you decide on cutting the pickup tube, dont forget to mark a line for alignment after cutting!
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on my 69 swap, i cut the end of the tube (screen end) off and rotateed it 90degrees and welded it back on. then i ended up hitting it with a rubber mallet like 1-2 times, fit pretty good