UnZFeat'd

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, me and my friend are trying to figure out what we can do to his 2000 Trans-Am, that will make it outhandle my stepdads C6 Z51 and my other friends 99 M3 with coilovers. I read the FAQ regarding drag/road race suspension, but i am still unclear as to what we can do to the chassis. I have heard that LCAs and SFCs would help a great deal, while also helping with launching. My question is, is there any other parts that have benifits to both stiff handling, and launching? Also, what would need to be done to a 00 TA to be able to compete with them? Thanks a bunch!

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

the SFCs and LCAs are prolly unnecessary. on the cheaper side, a good set of springs and matching shocks (koni's) as well as an adjustable PHR would be the best place to start...right after doing a driver mod (learing how to drive the car as is)...this can def put him past an M3 if done correctly and can keep up with the c6...but it all comes down to the drivers ability..keep that in mind

from there it gets more expensive; you can get GC coilovers with a good spring rate and again put some good shocks to it (koni's)

or go all out and LG's coilovers and just tell them what you want to do and they'll set you up for about 2k and 2 months later (it takes time to build and they're usually busy, not always that long)

a good working spring rate with good dampening shocks will eliminate the need for SFCs (saving $ and weight)

LCAs are really only necessary if you're racing (serious racing, not street racing)

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Trade it in on one of those two cars.

It's not a Corvette. It's missing the better weight distribution, the lighter weight and the IRS. It's not an M3 for many of the same reasons, but not as much of each of them.

This isn't to say that you can't get very close and you have a bit more power than the M3, so you can use that to your advantage. I know this thread is about to fill up with "I outran car x with only mods y". And, you can in many cases. But much of that's driver based as much as car based.

If we could make f-bodies into Corvettes, we wouldn't need Corvettes.

How much money do you have budgeted for this project? How is the car used? Do you do any drag racing? Will you trade drag times for handling performance?

Once we get a feel for that, we can help you reach the intended goals, or get as close as possible.

Just my thoughts.

UnZFeat'd

iTrader: (1)

theres about 3k in the budget just for the suspension alone.

UnZFeat'd

iTrader: (1)

i know that fbodies dont have the same weight distribution as a ybody, but what would be needed in order to overcome that?

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

This might seem like a odd list and be missing some of the things you expect will be there. I'm just trying to save you money on stuff you don't have to have for you goals. You'll be looking at a setup similar to this (every chef will have a slight variation of this setup matched to their personal taste):

Koni SA's (4/4)
Strano Springs (or Ground Control springs/weight jacks)
Heim/Heim PHB
35mm front sway bar (Suspension Techniques, Strano, Hotchkis)
21mm (1LE) rear bar or 22mm Strano rear bar
17x11 wheels (4)
315/35-17 tires (4)
7mm wheel spacers (front) - most cases, some cars are different and use more or less (these are needed for ZR1 50mm offset wheels)
7/16 wheel spacers (rear) - most cases, some cars are different and use more or less (these are needed for ZR1 50mm offset wheels)
Global West upper front control arms and balljoints (if we were taking this car to the track to try to "prove" that it turns better laps, I'd do these, if it's street only you can probably skip them).
Heim/Heim LCA's (Heim/poly or heim/rubber are a more streetable alternative, or just run the stock ones)

Run as much negative camber as you can get on the stock upper control arms (probably about -1 to -1.3 degrees), or if you did the Global West arms, shoot for about -1.7 camber (if it were going to the track, I'd go for -2 depending on what tires you were running). 4.5 to 5.5 castor and 0 toe to 1/32nd inch of toe out.

Then, remove everything that's not bolted down, except the spare tire and jack. We need the extra weight to keep the rear end glued down in some cases. Try it without, put it back if you get lots of wheel spin out of left hand corners. The car needs a diet to really get close to your goals.

Add HP to taste and remember that the only place you can really use such a setup to its limits would be on a proper race track.

Don't forget brakes!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Move the engine back, fiberglass hood, remove weight from the nose....

...and add a transaxle in the rear.

UnZFeat'd

iTrader: (1)

seems like a lotta hogwash to me then, yah!

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I suggest contacting Sam Strano. He is a sponsor here with a great deal of experience with exactly what you are aiming at.
Best of luck.

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Start with this thread for the basics:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html

This is what I would run, to *compete* with an M3:

>> limited budget:

- revalved bilsteins all around
- stock springs
- strano front sway
- 1le rear sway
- homemade rod/rod PHR (see link above)
- 17" x 9.5" (or 9") wheels with 275/40/17 rubber all around (optional--but good for DD and racing) BFG KDWs are great tires.

>> higher budget:

- Koni S/A all around
- Strano springs
- Strano front and rear sway bars
- UMI rod/rod PHR
- 17" x 9.5" wheels, 275/40/17 tires (BFG KDW are great tires)
- 11"s and 315s if you are feeling aggressive


Like Trackbird stated, don't forget about brakes!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes I suggest Sam as well. I personally drove his car a few weeks ago and I must say I was amazed. He will tell you how it is and what you need with out all the stuff you don't.

www.stranoparts.com

Hope that helps!
Ryan