Final 228R cam ? I promise ;)
#1
Final 228R cam ? I promise ;)
Ok guys, im sure this is the cam I want, but my grandfathers nephew is rabling on and on about something and would like yalls opinion on it.
He says that at 55mph going down the highway or whatever, that the car wouldnt have enough power to get out of its own way. I know I'll loose some low end but how much?
My thinking is, the car isn't gonna start a race or passing scenario in o/d in 4th gear, it would kick down to a lower gear and im sure a 3200 stall would help.
Am I right on wrong on this?
Anyone have a dyno of a 228R so I can look 2 the power vs rpms?
**Just in case it matters, Im getting it in TSP heads/cam package. I wanna go with the ported LS6 heads, im also running stock 3.23 gears andplan on a 3200 stall**
He says that at 55mph going down the highway or whatever, that the car wouldnt have enough power to get out of its own way. I know I'll loose some low end but how much?
My thinking is, the car isn't gonna start a race or passing scenario in o/d in 4th gear, it would kick down to a lower gear and im sure a 3200 stall would help.
Am I right on wrong on this?
Anyone have a dyno of a 228R so I can look 2 the power vs rpms?
**Just in case it matters, Im getting it in TSP heads/cam package. I wanna go with the ported LS6 heads, im also running stock 3.23 gears andplan on a 3200 stall**
Last edited by Tainted; 04-09-2007 at 10:22 PM.
#6
so far its 3-0
It just didnt make sense to me, and gramps and dad seem to think hes right. he said it "has to much lift" and I was thinknig ****, 588 aint a lot, ill show you lift. the damn cheater cam has over 600 lift and is supposed to be one of the msot streetable things out there
It just didnt make sense to me, and gramps and dad seem to think hes right. he said it "has to much lift" and I was thinknig ****, 588 aint a lot, ill show you lift. the damn cheater cam has over 600 lift and is supposed to be one of the msot streetable things out there
#7
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Here's what I've observed.
Old school guys think in terms of what they learned when they were young.
Back when a set of really good street SBC heads flowed 230cfm on the intake,Mallory Unilite distributors,& old 3310 holley carbs ruled. Cam numbers like we see being developed for Gen III/IV stuff just wouldn't run on the street..Not without major driveability issues & narrow power bands.
Even some of the knuckleheads they employ as tech advisors at COMP wont recommend anything with an XE-R lobe for a street LS1.
The guys you want to talk to work at places like Texas Speed & Performance.
They're cutting -edge when it comes to this new stuff.
Old school guys think in terms of what they learned when they were young.
Back when a set of really good street SBC heads flowed 230cfm on the intake,Mallory Unilite distributors,& old 3310 holley carbs ruled. Cam numbers like we see being developed for Gen III/IV stuff just wouldn't run on the street..Not without major driveability issues & narrow power bands.
Even some of the knuckleheads they employ as tech advisors at COMP wont recommend anything with an XE-R lobe for a street LS1.
The guys you want to talk to work at places like Texas Speed & Performance.
They're cutting -edge when it comes to this new stuff.
Last edited by BYE RICE; 04-09-2007 at 10:43 PM.
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#8
ive aggrivated tsp to death im sure
from what ive gathered, the 228R and the ls6 heads will hit my 400rwhp goal and turn out low low 12's maybe a high 11 with great weather and a good launch. I jsut don't wanna have to flycut or have driveability problems.
from what ive gathered, the 228R and the ls6 heads will hit my 400rwhp goal and turn out low low 12's maybe a high 11 with great weather and a good launch. I jsut don't wanna have to flycut or have driveability problems.
#9
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It's all in the tune as far as how it idles & drives...Even a Trex & an MS4 can be made to idle & drive well enough..Not great..but enough to get by.
The basic combination of parts really needs be thought through as well.
You need to spec the cam to the desired compression ratio,or vice versa.
You need some converter to compensate for the cam duration,& some gear to get it into the band.
The basic combination of parts really needs be thought through as well.
You need to spec the cam to the desired compression ratio,or vice versa.
You need some converter to compensate for the cam duration,& some gear to get it into the band.
Last edited by BYE RICE; 04-09-2007 at 10:57 PM.
#10
I wanna upgrade to 3.42's but I cant do that right now, so im gonna make due with 3.23's. im getting a tune from pcmforless sicne its only $50 for a retune and it can get me by till I got the time and $$ to invest in a dyno tune. this motor is totally new so I gotta break it in first anyhow maknig a dyno tune pretty much impossible
#11
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Originally Posted by Tainted
I wanna upgrade to 3.42's but I cant do that right now, so im gonna make due with 3.23's. im getting a tune from pcmforless sicne its only $50 for a retune and it can get me by till I got the time and $$ to invest in a dyno tune. this motor is totally new so I gotta break it in first anyhow maknig a dyno tune pretty much impossible
Detonation is alot easier to detect also.
If you have to choose between either gears or a stall...Go stall because it will compensate for lack of gear to an extent.
The best one is a Vigilante..Expensive,but good..
They'll build you one to your exact combination.It'll do as much for your car's performance as any other mod you've done.
#12
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Originally Posted by BYE RICE
500 miles is enough for a dyno..The dyno is easier on it than the street.
Detonation is alot easier to detect also.
If you have to choose between either gears or a stall...Go stall because it will compensate for lack of gear to an extent.
The best one is a Vigilante..Expensive,but good..
They'll build you one to your exact combination.It'll do as much for your car's performance as any other mod you've done.
Detonation is alot easier to detect also.
If you have to choose between either gears or a stall...Go stall because it will compensate for lack of gear to an extent.
The best one is a Vigilante..Expensive,but good..
They'll build you one to your exact combination.It'll do as much for your car's performance as any other mod you've done.
#13
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For me it came down to decicing between the 228 or the one I just installed (232/234). Even with the 232/234 the street manners are VERY good and the only thing I've tuned so far is the idle. I can still round a corner at 25 mph and leave the car in 4th gear. The notable difference is that I'm running a manual trans and 4.10 gears.
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get your scr/dcr up there and you will have big hp and tq. my setup was on the high side of scr /dcr with 11:7/8.9 but i had 350 ftlbs @ 3000 with a 228 on a 112 +2. even with around 8.5 dcr or so you should be 320+ @ 3000 so it will still have great bottom end. and as everyone else has said, the nephew and the rest of your family are used to old school motors it sounds like,a sbc cam with around 228* @ .050 is somewhere around .480 lift or so.
#17
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Originally Posted by BYE RICE
Then who,in your opinion,makes the best torque converter?
Either a VIG 3200 or a Yank SS3600 would be my choice.
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Originally Posted by slow trap
get your scr/dcr up there and you will have big hp and tq. my setup was on the high side of scr /dcr with 11:7/8.9 but i had 350 ftlbs @ 3000 with a 228 on a 112 +2. even with around 8.5 dcr or so you should be 320+ @ 3000 so it will still have great bottom end. and as everyone else has said, the nephew and the rest of your family are used to old school motors it sounds like,a sbc cam with around 228* @ .050 is somewhere around .480 lift or so.
My 228 cammed car GAINED torque and hence power at EVERY point in the RPM band from 2500 to 6700. It MAY have lost a little from idle to 1500 rpms.....but WHO THE HELL CARES?