shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Just curious to get some ideas here.

I've seen people using the Painless 7-circuit fuse block for wiring...but no clue about relays.

I need to use at least 5 relays in my setup (fans/cooling/fuelpump/clutch safety/IGN), and I wanted to just jack a relay box from a 99+ GM pickup, but I was curious if anyone sells a "relay bar" or something that was watherproof and could be used under the hood to keep it all out of the way and inline between the battery and cab?

If anyone has suggestions on fuse bars I can get at the local parts store, I didn't see anything and I'm interested...

Oscar Will

I bit the bullet and went with an American Autowire fuse/relay/terminal block and harness kit. I've done three cars already with their products and I really like they way the block terminal connections work. The product looks as good as it works.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

That's good news, I've been hearing about AAW kits from a lot of people lately, and I like how they don't use a through-the-firewall bulkhead when installed, which makes it easier to shave the firewall and put things whereever you want. What do they offer for relays in their kits? i.e. how many relays, and is it enough for the LS1?

I really liked keeping things modular, which is why I was asking about the relay situation. I kinda want to put them somewhere nice and sealed....

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I used a 96 V6 Camaro underhood fuse/relay box. It is not waterproof, but GM used it under the hood and it has space for 8 relays and I think 12 fuses.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Hey G-body, thanks for the input; you never fail to come through with wiring answers, and I appreciate you. Does the '96 fuse/relay box use one common power source and ground for all of the relays installed?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

No , they are all individually wired. I just tied them together outside the box with solder and shrink tube. It isn`t the most elegant solution, but it was cheap, easy, and works well for my daily driver. Its no show car, it just needs to be fast and reliable.

The fuse box is mounted just to the right of the computer in this picture, as you can see theres a lot of wires going in/out of it, but there is actually still some room left for wires to enter/exit. I used the trucks power distribution block (red box on the alt bracket) to provide power for all the relays.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

I used 3 Autozone fuse blocks and 7 of Bosch relays, with the relays mounted to an aluminum bar. In retrospects, I should have gone to a junkyard and gotten a factory style fuse/relay block. My wiring is basically the same as the schematic in the stickies, except I ran switched power to terminal 85 of the left & right fan relays instead of battery power. I don't want fans coming on by surprise with the engine off.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

There was a thread somewhere around here (if searched worked ide find it for ya) where a guy took two stock f-body fuse blocks, and combined/re-worked them to make one really nice, complete fuse block. It looked really neat and tidy when he was done, and he had all the circuits that you'd need.

Im just using the stock f-body fuse blocks without modification. Lets all the engine harness parts just plug and play into it. And all I really had to do to make it all work was run a power wire to it, a switched ignition wire, and ground it. And viola, the relay boxes basically worked just as they did in the 99.

J.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I wish i found that thread cuz thats exactly what i did. I was going from factory carb over so I needed to add quite a few circuits. I purchased a complete f body chassis harness/fuse boxes to start. The stock LS1 f body uses two fuse/relay boxes. One is for the chassis ( Lets call it C ) and one is for the engine management/fans/A/C etc. Lets call it ( E ) Only one fuse from box C is req'd to move over to box E to support all the fuses and relays in box E and you will even have spares. More importantly all the wires are the correct gauge and color to match up with your five plugs running off the engine harness. I think I had to run about six new feeds and the rest I used the stock leads coming out of the LS1 fuse box.

The power feed for box E comes via box C so you have to re-work the feeds and the routing of the power lines from fuses around but I swear to you its very self explanatory once you are looking at the boxes. Anyways thats what i did and it looks neat and tidy and works fine. All said and done I have two fused circuits and three spare relays left over

raymundojr

I see that you are looking for a fuse block which has removednon-sponsor link[/COLOR] features.I would suggest that it would be nice if it would have a soldered bar on your hood to keep it from getting to near the battery.

Jones'n

I have used one a couple of times that is specifically designed for the Ls1 and Lt1 harnesses. It makes it kind of nice.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

Who makes that setup?

Jones'n

Current Performance

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

I used a blox from a 2001 gtp pontiac for my harness had all the fuses and necessary relays in a 4.5 x4.5 enclosure.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Ah, Current Performance. I ordered one today, found it at the top of their "wiring kits" page (top of page).

They have a LOT of stuff, looks like a great place to shop. Can't beat that price, I think I'm gonna go for it.

Good info in this thread!