TH400/TH350/Built 4L60e??
#1
TH400/TH350/Built 4L60e??
Ok guys, I have a local transmission builder who is going to be building a transmission for me. He builds racing transmissions and has built Ed Wright's transmissions for years. Anyways, I am trying to decide between a TH400, TH350 or a 4L60e. The motor will be close to 500hp/500tq NA. I may or may not spray in the future, if I did, 250shot would be it. Probably a 2 stage setup.
4L60e-He'd build it with the best parts but is not confident as to whether or not it would hold with the spray. It is the cheapest of the bunch at $1250 using my current transmission and stall, installed.
TH400-He could do the complete build and supply the core for $1250. However, I would need a stall, torque arm relocation/crossmember and anything else needed for the swap. Does anyone have a BASIC parts list needed for the swap? I know I am going to probably use the BMR crossmember/tq arm relocation bracket combo with my stock torque arm for now (cash is tight). Would I just need to get some stock tq arm bushings? I know I'd need a stall, what about driveshaft or driveshaft modification? Shifter linkage? Etc?? I looked in the FAQ but there aren't any definite answeres on parts...
TH350-I like this option due to the lockup converter. He could do it with the core and built for $1000 installed. I would need the same conversion parts, so, a basic parts needed list would be great.
This is my DD and I know it would be difficult with no OD for the TH400 or TH350. I would like the TH350 because I could get a lockup converter. Would the 4L60e be a safe choice as well if I do not end up spraying it? I just dropped 10K on my motor build and have only had it out of the shop for a week, I just want to get it back and running and try not to spend an arm and a leg. Advice is great
4L60e-He'd build it with the best parts but is not confident as to whether or not it would hold with the spray. It is the cheapest of the bunch at $1250 using my current transmission and stall, installed.
TH400-He could do the complete build and supply the core for $1250. However, I would need a stall, torque arm relocation/crossmember and anything else needed for the swap. Does anyone have a BASIC parts list needed for the swap? I know I am going to probably use the BMR crossmember/tq arm relocation bracket combo with my stock torque arm for now (cash is tight). Would I just need to get some stock tq arm bushings? I know I'd need a stall, what about driveshaft or driveshaft modification? Shifter linkage? Etc?? I looked in the FAQ but there aren't any definite answeres on parts...
TH350-I like this option due to the lockup converter. He could do it with the core and built for $1000 installed. I would need the same conversion parts, so, a basic parts needed list would be great.
This is my DD and I know it would be difficult with no OD for the TH400 or TH350. I would like the TH350 because I could get a lockup converter. Would the 4L60e be a safe choice as well if I do not end up spraying it? I just dropped 10K on my motor build and have only had it out of the shop for a week, I just want to get it back and running and try not to spend an arm and a leg. Advice is great
#4
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To help you further we need to know rear gear ratio and tire size. But here is some stuff from my TH400 install. I used the stock shifter from an A4. I had to drill a new mounting hole between the original holes used to bolt the shifter linkage to the trans pan. You will retain your neutral start and steering wheel lock feature with the stock shifter. You will need a 3" longer driveshaft( on a TH400 with 4" tailshaft ) and stronger driveshaft (to hold 500 HP.) You can use an M6 crossmember, but I had to make a 1" thick spacer to get the driveline angle correct. My car has a tunnel mount torque arm bracket. Noise over bumps will increase with this type of TQ arm. I run 6000 rpm @ 110 mph through the traps in quarter mile with 275 40 17 tires , 3000 stall and 3.42 rear gear. You may need taller tires or a 2.73 - 3.23 gear ratio to spray. Your electronic Speedometer will not work without finding a new pulse signal source. You will probably have to reprogram the ECM to ignore the fact the A4 is out of the loop . I started with an M6 so I can't give too much detail on your situation. I vote for sticking with an A4 because you can retain the street manners, stock TQ arm location, fuel mileage, run normal size gears and tires. You need to decide if you can do without Overdrive if you want aTH400. If my car was a daily driver I would of went with the OD trans. Are you racing a lot or mostly cruising around? Anyhow there are some driveability sacrifices you have to make to get the strength of the 400.