View Full Version : Looking For Mild Steel V-Band's...


Rompn
04-18-2007, 05:25 PM
I'm looking for a few v-bands to add into an exhaust I'm building and would prefer them to be mild steel or aluminized steel (if they even make them in that). I need them in 2.25" and also 3". Any ideas? I searched around for a little but only found them in stainless. Even then I didn't find any in the 2.25" size. Thanks!

xfactor_pitbulls
04-18-2007, 06:27 PM
I'm looking for a few v-bands to add into an exhaust I'm building and would prefer them to be mild steel or aluminized steel (if they even make them in that). I need them in 2.25" and also 3". Any ideas? I searched around for a little but only found them in stainless. Even then I didn't find any in the 2.25" size. Thanks!

You are going to be hard pressed to find that. Look at it this way, if they were MS, they are going to rust, your options are to paint or coat. You can do the same to stainless. Please dont tell me its because of the price, because they are not that high.

MikeGyver
04-19-2007, 08:42 PM
This place has 'em:
http://www.spdexhaust.com/exhaust-flange-specs.html#vband

JPMuscle
04-19-2007, 11:03 PM
jus out of curiosity but what type of exhaust are you building that would require to use V Bands?

Stampede4ever
04-20-2007, 12:09 PM
What's the price the V-band kits?

Thanks.

ghettocruiser
04-20-2007, 12:57 PM
Summit...

The clamps are stainless, but the actual flanges are mild.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DTC%2D60%2D912300S&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Says right in notes... "Weld-on rings are mild steel, the V-band clamps are stainless steel."

No 2.25" tho..only 3 and 2.5... I ordered them for my exhaust as well... I like the fact that they are easy to assemble once welded on, and they dont use gaskets. If they are good enough to hold high boost in a turbo application, they will work great on my exhaust...

Justin

Rompn
05-01-2007, 03:40 PM
You are going to be hard pressed to find that. Look at it this way, if they were MS, they are going to rust, your options are to paint or coat. You can do the same to stainless. Please dont tell me its because of the price, because they are not that high.

Well the rest of this exhaust system I'm building is aluminized steel so I was hoping to find a v-band in the same material. Price isn't an issue, was more curious than anything to see if anyone made them. Looks like no one does though so I'll have to pick up some stainless steel versions.

Rompn
05-01-2007, 03:41 PM
This place has 'em:
http://www.spdexhaust.com/exhaust-flange-specs.html#vband

I looked around there and didn't see them in the correct material. You found them in alumined steel or mild steel?

Rompn
05-01-2007, 04:01 PM
jus out of curiosity but what type of exhaust are you building that would require to use V Bands?

Actually, this exhaust is a custom front to back setup I'm building from scratch for my 79' Jeep Cherokee I just dropped a small block Chevy into. The way the crossmember is setup for the tranny/transfercase, it will require that I drop the crossmember to install or remove the exhaust. With two, 2.25" v-bands inline, I'll be able to remove it in pieces without dropping anything. The single 3" v-band I asked for earlier will be placed right after the merge collector where the muffler will bolt up to. That way I can build and try different muffler/tip setups from the merge collector back without hacking anything up. Don't know if it is worth justifing the cost of the flanges yet though. The system isn't anything special. Using aluminized, 16g mild steel tubing. 2.25" from each manifold merging to a single 3." Muffler is a Flowmaster 40 series and will have a single 3" exiting the muffler with about 36" of tubing and then a 3.5" tip. Later looking into building the same setup from the merge collector back but utilizing a bullet muffler instead of the Flowmaster muffler to see how I like it instead.

Rompn
05-01-2007, 04:02 PM
What's the price the V-band kits?

Thanks.

What's the difference between just the clamps and the "kits"? It looks like you get about 3" of tubing with the kit yet the price is almost tripled. Has to be more to it than that. If I already have the tubing in place and all, I would just need the clamps themselves and nothing else, correct?

Rompn
05-01-2007, 04:04 PM
Also one last question... are all v-bands created equal with regards to quality? If not, which ones are a higher quality than others?

camaroextra
05-02-2007, 11:18 PM
jus out of curiosity but what type of exhaust are you building that would require to use V Bands?

I wanna do some duals under the axle, and I want to put V bands right before the axle to be able to take them off pretty quick. Thats the only reason I can think to use them on a non turbo exhaust.

Rompn
05-03-2007, 10:22 AM
I wanna do some duals under the axle, and I want to put V bands right before the axle to be able to take them off pretty quick. Thats the only reason I can think to use them on a non turbo exhaust.

That's my same reason as well.

ghettocruiser
05-03-2007, 10:37 AM
Im doing for the simple fact that I like to over do things. haha. If they are good enough to hold boost and use in turbo piping, they are good enough for my y-pipe and will hold my exhaust pressure without leaking and without a gasket.

The best place Ive foudn them is Summit....following the link I posted above. You might be able to find them a tad cheaper, but Summit only has a $10 handling fee, and they usually ship that same day. In most cases I get my parts next day without paying anything extra.

Ive seen the ones with alittle bit of pipe attached. I cant remember what company it was, but I called and they said it was for a picture reference only. The kit itself would come with only the flanges and no pipe. I WISH mine had pipe attached, because Im having a bitch of a time welding the mild rings to the stainless pipe. Im using a MIG... no tig welder and no 220 or else Ide rent one.

I just ordered some 309L wire...instead of using the 308 that I was trying to use. I hoping the 309 helps. Welding isnt a problem... a leak free weld is.

Justin

Rompn
05-03-2007, 11:12 AM
Im doing for the simple fact that I like to over do things. haha. If they are good enough to hold boost and use in turbo piping, they are good enough for my y-pipe and will hold my exhaust pressure without leaking and without a gasket.

The best place Ive foudn them is Summit....following the link I posted above. You might be able to find them a tad cheaper, but Summit only has a $10 handling fee, and they usually ship that same day. In most cases I get my parts next day without paying anything extra.

Ive seen the ones with alittle bit of pipe attached. I cant remember what company it was, but I called and they said it was for a picture reference only. The kit itself would come with only the flanges and no pipe. I WISH mine had pipe attached, because Im having a bitch of a time welding the mild rings to the stainless pipe. Im using a MIG... no tig welder and no 220 or else Ide rent one.

I just ordered some 309L wire...instead of using the 308 that I was trying to use. I hoping the 309 helps. Welding isnt a problem... a leak free weld is.

Justin

Thanks for the info. I'm still looking around for v-bands myself. Trying to figure out which ones are good quality and which ones are not. I understand now about the pieces of tube and their purpose. Sounds like I should look into getting that style rather than just the v-band itself due to the fact that I'm using a MIG to put all this together as well. I would like to order these up today so I may give the ones in Summit or Jegs a try.

ghettocruiser
05-03-2007, 11:31 AM
The ones in summit and probably JEGS are from a company called dynatec. I talked to a guy in their tech dept. about the flanges and his info is what convinced me to go with them. They seemed like a good company and the flanges I got from them look great.

If you happen to find a company that sells them with the pipe already attached, let me know. My suspicion is that the price will be considerably higher than the $40 I paid for my kits. Only because of the process of welding the flanges to that piece of pipe. Its probably TIG welded and would infact kick the price up. Probably to around $70 or $80 if not more.

The problem I had with my welds, was after I was done, I taped off all the open parts of the header, sprayed soap water on the welds, and blew air from my mouth into the O2 sensor bung. I had leaks alll the way around the flange welds. Really ticked me off. I proceeded to try to reweld it. Still the same problem. Ground it down a good bit and rewelded it again...and well, after all that the damn flange was warped.

So I ordered another, and the new wire. I was using .030 wire thickness too...which probably wasnt helping. I ordered .023 309L wire and Im going to use the second half of the clamp that I ruined to practice. Im keeping my fingers crossed that I can sort through this because my entire exhaust plan (headers, y-pipe, cut out, catback) depends on it.

Justin

Rompn
05-03-2007, 11:38 AM
The ones in summit and probably JEGS are from a company called dynatec. I talked to a guy in their tech dept. about the flanges and his info is what convinced me to go with them. They seemed like a good company and the flanges I got from them look great.

If you happen to find a company that sells them with the pipe already attached, let me know. My suspicion is that the price will be considerably higher than the $40 I paid for my kits. Only because of the process of welding the flanges to that piece of pipe. Its probably TIG welded and would infact kick the price up. Probably to around $70 or $80 if not more.

The problem I had with my welds, was after I was done, I taped off all the open parts of the header, sprayed soap water on the welds, and blew air from my mouth into the O2 sensor bung. I had leaks alll the way around the flange welds. Really ticked me off. I proceeded to try to reweld it. Still the same problem. Ground it down a good bit and rewelded it again...and well, after all that the damn flange was warped.

So I ordered another, and the new wire. I was using .030 wire thickness too...which probably wasnt helping. I ordered .023 309L wire and Im going to use the second half of the clamp that I ruined to practice. Im keeping my fingers crossed that I can sort through this because my entire exhaust plan (headers, y-pipe, cut out, catback) depends on it.

Justin

Ya, from what I have read, the v-bands from Summit and such are from Dynatech. Don't know if that's good or bad. Anyway, I'm worried about the mild steel portion of these particluar v-bands because this exhaust will be on a Jeep that will be seeing lots of mud, dirt, sand and water. I'm thinking that portion of the v-band will rust up pretty quick and either cause a leak or prevent me from removing the v-band when needed due to the rust. I'm looking into something that is all stainless steel with the end tubes already welded on. So far I have found these through Burns Stainless. They even have them in the 2.25" size I was looking for as well. They are $84 a piece though.

ghettocruiser
05-03-2007, 12:31 PM
Yup...Burns is where I saw them... I remember the name now. I worried about the flanges rusting, but since they are CNC'd they should last alittle longer. Just due to not having pits and areas for moisture to collect.

I have a Jeep too, and made a custom exhaust out of all mild. Ive had it all submerged in water and mud almost up to the hood and the pipes are still in good condition. Just clean it off after you wheeling trip.

I asked about rust on those flanges when I talked to dynatech, and they said it wasnt really an issue. The guy told me I could tape off the sealing part of the flange, paint the back side of it, and that would help. Because the sealing sides fit so tight and flat against each other, that they dont easily rust. So Im going to hit all my weld areas and the back sides of those flanges with the highest temp paint I can find and just hope that it works out forever. haha.

Justin

Rompn
05-03-2007, 12:45 PM
I worried about the flanges rusting, but since they are CNC'd they should last alittle longer.
Justin

Are you sure that the ones from Dynatech (Summit/Jegs) are CNC'd and not just stamped?

ghettocruiser
05-03-2007, 01:06 PM
Well, Im positive they arent stamped. Cant say for sure on the process... I dont see how you could stamp a v-clamp flange... Thats the only way you could make sure the sealing surface was consistant. Either way...they are like a solid ring. Real shiny and smooth.

This is pretty close to what mine look like. But alittle different...

http://www.himni-racing.com/images/tial_44mm_v-band_flange001.jpg

J.

Rompn
05-03-2007, 01:36 PM
Well, Im positive they arent stamped. Cant say for sure on the process... I dont see how you could stamp a v-clamp flange... Thats the only way you could make sure the sealing surface was consistant. Either way...they are like a solid ring. Real shiny and smooth.

This is pretty close to what mine look like. But alittle different...

http://www.himni-racing.com/images/tial_44mm_v-band_flange001.jpg

J.

I read on another forum somewhere that the v-band flanges can either come stamped or CNC'd. That's why I ask. The picture you have looks CNC'd for sure though. So, yours are different from the picture above how? You don't have the little tube that sticks up from the flange?

ghettocruiser
05-08-2007, 04:42 PM
Gave up on trying to MIG weld them. Got some .023 309L stainless wire. That didnt help things at all. Just cant make a nice enough weld that either wont leak or doesnt warp the flange (ruined a flange from warping it...not a cheap mistake).

Took them to a local machine shop. Cut some 2" long pieces of pipe to stick in each one and had the TIG it. $60 for 6 flanges. They look perfect, wont leak, and they told me they would TIG the entire y-pipe when I was done. I can MIG the pipe to pipe easy...but for another $60...Ill have them do it.

Justin

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/exhaust/S6000850.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/exhaust/S6000853.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/exhaust/S6000856.jpg

Rompn
05-09-2007, 10:38 AM
Hey! Looks good. Still haven't ordered mine yet as I'm waiting to put in a large order with those included.

ghettocruiser
05-09-2007, 12:14 PM
Cool man. hey..if you can afford it, get a couple extras. That way JUST in case one gets furbar'd, you wont have to wait for another like I did.

If you dont mess any up, you can easily sell the left overs to someone. I wish I would have gotten an extra...then again, I wish I would have just had them tigged in the first place. haha.

You still gonna try to do them yourself?

J.

frcefed98
05-09-2007, 03:29 PM
Mild Steel 2.5 V bands (http://store.racing-solutions.org/2mivas.html)

Or Youngs Performance

Also a quite a few on ebay. I've bought some from this company, they ship fast and have sizes from 2.0 to 4.0 and all stainless.

Stainless V bands (http://stores.ebay.com/Verocious-Motorsports_Clamps_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ7QQft idZ2QQtZkm)


But if doing exhaust work and not doing any fancy turbo work, stick with pressed flanges. They come in all sizes and in MS or SS. Nearly the same as a V band but more economical especially if you opt for the MS. 2.5 to 3.0 should cover anyone doing some true duals.

Pressed flanges and clamp assemblies (http://store.airflo.com/casttcostfor.html)

Rompn
05-15-2007, 03:33 PM
Mild Steel 2.5 V bands (http://store.racing-solutions.org/2mivas.html)

Or Youngs Performance

Also a quite a few on ebay. I've bought some from this company, they ship fast and have sizes from 2.0 to 4.0 and all stainless.

Stainless V bands (http://stores.ebay.com/Verocious-Motorsports_Clamps_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ7QQft idZ2QQtZkm)


But if doing exhaust work and not doing any fancy turbo work, stick with pressed flanges. They come in all sizes and in MS or SS. Nearly the same as a V band but more economical especially if you opt for the MS. 2.5 to 3.0 should cover anyone doing some true duals.

Pressed flanges and clamp assemblies (http://store.airflo.com/casttcostfor.html)

Thanks for the info. Don't know if I like the pressed flanges as I haven't heard any first hand opinions on them. Iv'e changed plans a little with how I'm going to run the exhaust now so all I need is a single 3" v-band (or some sort of removable setup). Basically this will allow me to remove the exhaust from the merge collector back which will contain the muffler, bent tubing over the axle and the tip. I can then install a different setup (muffler, tip combo) and easily re-install it to see how I like it. I'm still leaning towards V-band, espically since I only need one now instead of three.

frcefed98
05-15-2007, 05:39 PM
If exhaust work is all your doing then pressed flanges will be absolutely fine for quick take down at the track or where ever you need a quick detachment point.

I'd only use an expensive V band on a high pressure tube like a turbo crossover that really needs to be leak free.

I usually run pressed flanges from the downpipe back, no issues at all.

Rompn
05-15-2007, 05:47 PM
If exhaust work is all your doing then pressed flanges will be absolutely fine for quick take down at the track or where ever you need a quick detachment point.

I'd only use an expensive V band on a high pressure tube like a turbo crossover that really needs to be leak free.

I usually run pressed flanges from the downpipe back, no issues at all.

Alright, for $30 compared to $80 for a V-Band, I'll give the pressed flange a try. It says it is for pipe not tube though. There is a difference between the two so what do you run when you build your setups? Go up one size to 3.5" or stick with the 3"? Or maybe they just have their lingo wrong.

Rompn
05-15-2007, 06:06 PM
Well I went ahead and contacted the company in the link your provided. Got a few things figured out and a few new questions as well. First off, the pressed flange is what the guy there recomended for my application as well. In fact, he has one on his truck and is doing the exact same setup I am. He measured one over the phone with me and told me they are measured ID (inside diameter). So, that means it slips over my 3" tube I'm using. So that solves that. Now, I asked him if I really wanted to use a V-Band flange I could, right? He said no because they are only used in a turbo type application and something about both mating surfaces have to be in a v configuration to get a positive seal. Apparently that doesn't apply for normal exhaust type tubing??? Still don't understand that part as I see others using v-bands on normal exhaust setups. Either way, I'm going to give this pressed flange a try and see what happens. They don't make them in 2.25" so I'm going to just get a single 3".

WOTFMAN
05-15-2007, 07:09 PM
Yup...Burns is where I saw them... I remember the name now. I worried about the flanges rusting, but since they are CNC'd they should last alittle longer. Just due to not having pits and areas for moisture to collect.

I have a Jeep too, and made a custom exhaust out of all mild. Ive had it all submerged in water and mud almost up to the hood and the pipes are still in good condition. Just clean it off after you wheeling trip.

I asked about rust on those flanges when I talked to dynatech, and they said it wasnt really an issue. The guy told me I could tape off the sealing part of the flange, paint the back side of it, and that would help. Because the sealing sides fit so tight and flat against each other, that they dont easily rust. So Im going to hit all my weld areas and the back sides of those flanges with the highest temp paint I can find and just hope that it works out forever. haha.

Justin
I know what you mean. BBQ Grill black paint from Home Depot works well.

Rompn
05-15-2007, 08:22 PM
So, I noticed that they make these "pressed flanges" in both carbon steel and also stainless steel. I would like to get the stainless steel as it is only a $3 difference however am I going to run into welding issues with trying to weld it to my current aluminized tubing?

Rompn
05-15-2007, 08:23 PM
I know what you mean. BBQ Grill black paint from Home Depot works well.

Iv'e heard that works well for the cost. I may use it for a custom tip I'm building for this system.

ghettocruiser
05-15-2007, 08:44 PM
Alright, for $30 compared to $80 for a V-Band, I'll give the pressed flange a try. It says it is for pipe not tube though. There is a difference between the two so what do you run when you build your setups? Go up one size to 3.5" or stick with the 3"? Or maybe they just have their lingo wrong.

Yeah...I was thinkin about the pressed ones...but the v-clamps I got were 40 from summit. So...for the extra 10 bucks, I figure, if they are good enough to hold boost, I WONT have any exhaust leaks. Plus Im relying on my clamps to hold my y-pipe into place, so I wanted the sturdiest set up I could use.

A clamp like I am using will work just fine on exhaust...as will the stamped ones I imagine. Its amazing the amount of compressive force you get with the two flanges and the "V" shaped clamp. Before they are even all the way tight you cant even rotate the two flanges anymore. These things are great.

Justin

P.S. Its so nice to have clearance again... and an easy way to connect/disconnect the exhaust, without dealing with slip fits...

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/exhaust/S6000889.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/jeepguy25/exhaust/S6000887.jpg

Sorry Im kind of pic whoring...just figured Ide show ya an assembled pic or two...

Rompn
05-16-2007, 10:31 AM
Looks good.