1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

what are some suspension mods i can do to get traction? im not looking to spend a **** load of money either soo give me some help, im ordering my eibach prokit also and i know you lose traction from them so i need something that will give me as much as i just lost or more... let me know soon please

LS1Formula01

iTrader: (1)

to gain that traction back get any aftermarket rear lower control arms, i would recommend an adjustable panhard bar and relocation brackets for the rear lower control arms.

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

i was going to get the Spohn lower control arms for now, is that good?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

What kind of traction are you looking for? Straight line or road racing? In any case, the best thing for traction is tires.

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

I think TIRES is the first step for drag or road race or spritied daily driver. Can't hook if you have crappy worn out tires. I don't care how much is the supension.

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

i know tires, im talking about suspension....

Time2Kill

iTrader: (49)

Get a set of lower control arm relocation brackets.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

in order from most to least important (for your situation):

1) LCA relocation brackets -- an absolute must if you want to regain the traction you will lose from lowering the car (advisable even if you weren't lowering)

2) rod/rod panhard bar -- to re-center the rear after lowering the car, and to stop the "bouncing" that you get when you corner on a bumpy road

3) adjustable torque arm -- to regain the lost energy that the stock stamped-steel torque arm absorbs and put it back to the wheels...needs to be adjustable in order to allow adjustments to the pinion angle for best performance & eliminating driveline vibration

4) LCA's -- rod/rod for the absolute least deflection/highest performance...poly/rod for a compromise between reducing deflection and how noisy they are...poly/poly for the least noise (but they will bind during cornering)

and i would definitely recommend that you replace the stock shocks if you are lowering the car, as the stock shocks are valved to dampen the ride at the stock ride height, using the factory spring rate (and are not even anything to brag about then)...some people will say that it will be fine on the stock shocks (and it may be for a while), but for the best results, you should look into some koni sa's, or some revalved bilsteins that are set up for those springs....the general consensus is that the koni's are the best shocks for these cars without having to sell a kidney on the black market to pay for them, but the revalves are a suitable, cheaper alternative (way better than stock, anyway)

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

i ordered the Pro kit, relocation brackets, and lower control arms today... my buddy said that sence i got the adjustable ones that i need to get allignment done when they come in after i put them on, is that true?

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

you don't need an alignment because the LCA's are adjustable, but you do need it because you will be dropping the ride height. this will cause the toe/camber on the front wheels to be out of whack, and they will wear unevenly. the rear should be ok as long as you keep the LCA's to the same length on both sides.

and like i said, you really should get an adjustable panhard rod when lowering the car by any amount. if you use the stock PHR (or a non-adjustable aftermarket one), the rear end will stick out a little farther on the driver's side than on the passenger's side after the car is lowered; an adjustable-length rod will let you center it again.

for best performance, i would recommend a rod/rod PHR (or at the very least, a poly/rod PHR)...the rod ends will keep the rear from moving from side to side a lot better than either the stock rubber bushings or the poly bushings when accelerating/cornering. just be sure to get parts that have good quality rod ends (like the QA1 rod ends), or they will wear out quicker, which will allow the rear to move more when turning, and "clunking" when hitting bumps.

one other thing, before you install any of those parts, park on a level surface (like a parking garage with nice, smooth concrete floors) and measure the height from the ground to the top of the wheel wells, and keep those measurements. then after the drop, do the same thing again to make sure the drop is even on both sides. then after 2k - 3k miles, do it again to see how much the springs settle, and double check to make sure they settle evenly. obviously, make sure the tires are inflated to equal pressures and have as close as possible to equal tread wear when doing these measurements. and after the springs settle, you may also want to re-adjust the PHR to make sure the rear is still centered.

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

ok well my front tires are new and rear are to but of course bald so ill roatate them and run them untell the bald ones unevenly wear out then get some new ones and get allignment done

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

What about shocks? What kind of shocks are you getting with the pro kit?

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

stock for now

gspdracer

I would advise against changing front springs without changing shocks, the car will bounce badly and you'll wind up having to take the front apart again to change the shocks when it can be done without much effort when you do the springs. Just my .02c. hope it helps.

1meantransam

iTrader: (8)

well i dont think im switching front springs out yet anyway sence he said i have to do allignment once its done, so rears for now untell i get shocks and some time go get allignment done

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

please...don't do that

you'll look like you're cruising around with a dead body in the rear hatch area or something....

but seriously, just wait on the springs and do them all at once after you have the shocks ready to go in, and the time/money for the alignment