Fast01ss

What sway bars do you guys run. i need help. i want it to be primarily drag but i also want to be able to drive it hard on the street. any input would be great!!

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

ST front solid 35mm with the stock rear for now. Looking at either a 1LE piece or Strano's rear 22mm hollow bar.

suburbanlife866

iTrader: (9)

I'm gona be running BMR front and rear soon, along with rod/rod LCA's panhard rod, and BMR torque arm. I'll let you know how it goes!

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

For drag dont run one. For street get a Strano front 35mm.

Ace$nyper

iTrader: (8)

You want best of both worlds, you'll either be happy with one let down in the other or have to comprimise.

If you really are into drag racing a larger rear bar and stock front isn't the worst setup, it'll jsut be a bit nutty with a large 25mmish rear bar.

You can unbolt your front sway or remove it at the track if you want to handle. A Strano 35mm bar is pretty much best on the market for a street car, it was made to be that, and in my veiws it's awesome.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

run any good bar setup on the street and then take the 10mins or so and disconnect the front when at the track.

seems like someone makes a quick disconnect end link. but that may be for rockcrawling/offroading...i get them confused since i also shop for jeep-****

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Get the strano 35/22 set, and disconnect one front endlink when you get to the track.

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

primary drag, maybe a 35m solid front and 25 bmr rear, and unhook th efront at the track. Be careful on the street wtih that setup though.

OldeSkool

Strano bars. Forget anything solid, they're not any stiffer but weigh a whole lot more

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Agreed...I still have my solid ST 35mm and solid ST 25mm front/rear bars on my car, and those bastards were heavy. I already have a Strano 22mm rear bar waiting to go on with my new 12-bolt, and I'll have his 35mm hollow bar to compliment it.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

I'm gonna go with a ST 35mm Front and 21mm Rear from a ThirdGen.
I should have them on by mid May and can't wait!
I would have definitely gone with the Strano Front Bar if money weren't an option.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

35/21 solids work well. I don't use them simply because they are 20 pounds more than my hollow (and I knew I could save that weight), and the rear bar is all unsprung weight too.

They'll work well for you. GM has discontinued the 21mm rear altogether and the ST front, while cheaper does cost more to ship. Add urethane bushings to the rear bar and you end up cheaper, but not zillions less.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Well...you can look at it from my perspective. I'm spending my money twice on the same part because I didn't do it right the first time. Playing that game gets expensive in the end.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Actually, it's splitting hairs, but there is a potential rate difference between the hollow and solid bars. It's not huge, but saying "they're not any stiffer" isn't truly correct. I say "potential" since I've not measured any of them for actual rate and subtle things can change the rate of the bar (bends, etc). The solid bars should be slightly stiffer in the same diameter (all other things being equal, which they may not be).

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

I figured I'd save a few pennies on the solid ST bar up front... plus 20 pounds can be shaved off the car in a lot of other places to compensate, or just make a little more power. Now if it's a dedicated track car (with some street time), such as Sam's, then get the hollows only due to the fact that you want every pound shaved off that you can.
As for a rear bar, I'm ordering Sam's rear 22mm bar due to what he has already said, a rear sway bar = unsprung weight.

Now for drag racing, take off the front bar and brackets, and get a big rear Drag bar such as the Spohn, BMR Xtreme, or Wolfe.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

But making more power or shaving that 20 pounds off in any other way (as far as parts are concerned) costs a lot more. For instance you can do a K-member and save yourself 25 pounds, but spend $479 to do it.

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you somewhat. But I plan on removing my rear seats and seatbelts which make up for my loss. That's why I said if it's just a street car that may see the track a few times then weight is weight. But in your instance with your Camaro, it makes sense to knock every pound off that you can. Not knocking you or your product (I'm wanting the rear 22mm bar), just 20 lbs on a sway bar isn't too big of a deal to me personally. That's just my opinion though.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Yes you can make up for the weight somewhere else, but if you save the 20 lbs on the bar and take on the rear, then youve saved 40 lbs. Every bit does count

The strano 35/22 is a great combo and is what im going with once i get rid of some of this debt

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That's exactly what I was thinking....

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying that the solid bar is better for everyone, and I completely understand what ya'll are saying about weight. But for someone like the original poster who wants to handle well on the street, but be serious about drag racing, then why spend $80 more on a hollow Strano bar, or even more on a Hotchkis when they're going to take it off at the strip (where he stated his main focus was) to get the times he wants? That's all I was saying, not trying to argue about whether weight is important or not.