1.6 RR's on bolt on car
#1
1.6 RR's on bolt on car
How much power can be gained on a full bolt on LT1? Is it a noticable gain? Also I would think aluminum would be better since its lighter but Ive read a couple people think they are not as strong as steal and suggest avoiding them.
#7
Originally Posted by BizZzatch350
A lot of its probably has to due with putting in new valve springs, lot of guys have a ton of miles on the stock valve springs, bet a lot of cars are just making better power due to the fresh valve springs.
Well If it requires changing springs might as well swap the bump stick.
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#8
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Originally Posted by trailblazr81
Well If it requires changing springs might as well swap the bump stick.
True, but that requires buying the cam, all the necessary gaskets for the swap, a timing set, possibly lifters & pushrods and not to mention tunning after its all said and done.
#9
Well it wont hurt to change springs, timing chain, etc. And probly the hardest thing to change is the springs and adjust valves. Cam swap is just time consuming.
And who wouldnt want mo' power?
And who wouldnt want mo' power?
#10
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man now that you brought it up...what is the lift on a stock 96 cam with 1.6rr and the max lift on stock springs?
and can you use a spring thats good for like 550 lift with the stock cam and 1.6rr?
i should know this...ive done the came stuff before...i just went big the first time...thinking about bolting some on my dailly
and can you use a spring thats good for like 550 lift with the stock cam and 1.6rr?
i should know this...ive done the came stuff before...i just went big the first time...thinking about bolting some on my dailly
#11
This is a quote from Vette magazine where they did chasis dyno testing of a stock LT1 vette. They dyno'd the car before and after the 1.6 roller install this is what they said:
"The heavy hitter in the group is a set of 1.6-ratio extruded-aluminum roller rockers from Comp Cams. By raising the LT1's valve lift from .447-inch/.459-inch to a more aggressive .477-inch/.490-inch, the rockers boosted rear-wheel output by an impressive 11.4 hp and 10.2 lb-ft of torque. Self-aligning and built on a narrow-body design, these units clear the LT1's center-bolt valve covers and can be installed with no additional modifications. SLP does, however, recommend upgrading the valvesprings on any 100,000-plus-mile LT1 engine."
Of the mods they did this was the best gainer.
Also GM High Tech Performance listed the top 10 mods for the LT1 (bang for the buck) here is what they said:
A higher ratio, roller tip and roller bearing, narrow body, self-aligning rocker arm that beats the stock part in every aspect. The high ratio (stock is 1.5) facilitates increased engine induction by increasing valve lift. Fancy roller-bearing design helps cut parasitic losses from valvetrain. The rockers give a good boost to an otherwise lethargic stock LT1 valve lift.
The Catch:
May require some minor clearance work to factory steel valve covers.
Ease of Install:
Moderate
Wear and Tear:
Moderate
Approximate HP gain / ET reduction:
10 HP
Cost:
$366.69
Cost versus gain:
$36.67 PER HP
Hope this helps.
"The heavy hitter in the group is a set of 1.6-ratio extruded-aluminum roller rockers from Comp Cams. By raising the LT1's valve lift from .447-inch/.459-inch to a more aggressive .477-inch/.490-inch, the rockers boosted rear-wheel output by an impressive 11.4 hp and 10.2 lb-ft of torque. Self-aligning and built on a narrow-body design, these units clear the LT1's center-bolt valve covers and can be installed with no additional modifications. SLP does, however, recommend upgrading the valvesprings on any 100,000-plus-mile LT1 engine."
Of the mods they did this was the best gainer.
Also GM High Tech Performance listed the top 10 mods for the LT1 (bang for the buck) here is what they said:
A higher ratio, roller tip and roller bearing, narrow body, self-aligning rocker arm that beats the stock part in every aspect. The high ratio (stock is 1.5) facilitates increased engine induction by increasing valve lift. Fancy roller-bearing design helps cut parasitic losses from valvetrain. The rockers give a good boost to an otherwise lethargic stock LT1 valve lift.
The Catch:
May require some minor clearance work to factory steel valve covers.
Ease of Install:
Moderate
Wear and Tear:
Moderate
Approximate HP gain / ET reduction:
10 HP
Cost:
$366.69
Cost versus gain:
$36.67 PER HP
Hope this helps.
#12
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1.6 RRs are worth it from the reading I have done. Just make sure you do springs and the proper locks, retainers, etc. with them. Stock springs are more than likely tired. Any lightening of the valvetrain can do wonderful things. Not to mention, it's a good half-step if you can't afford a cam swap yet.
#13
Well if its recomended to change the springs, I'll just swap the cam. But then I would probly remove heads to change the springs. And since the heads are off might as well do a little port n polish during the rebuild, right??!! The viscious, never ending cycle. Just change a $200 mod to a $2,000 mod.
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You don't need guide plates with SA Rockers, unless it's just for redundancy.
EDIT: Gah, I said "DO" and meant "DON'T" >_< Late edit, my bad
EDIT: Gah, I said "DO" and meant "DON'T" >_< Late edit, my bad
Last edited by Formula350; 04-28-2007 at 09:04 PM.