last bit of swap help....
#1
last bit of swap help....
Hi Guys,
I am very close to the end of my LS1 into a 240sx swap... and have a few last issues with LS1 holes and ports that I have no clue where they go to and what they do, or what goes into them..or if I can just plug them off.
This is for a race car..with no emmissions and is not winter driven..
first picture shows 2 ports on the passenger side of the throttle body area..any hints at what tehy are and what to do with them?
next pic is on the top of the throttle body area..any idea about tehse?
next pic same area....any clue?
this next pic has me stumped...its at the rear of the engine near where i have the MAP sensor..it goes onto the block..no clue?
please advise if you can...
1=what each port does
2=what fluid is going through it
3=where to plumb it to..
4=if its actually required in my race car
HUGE THANKS
Adam
I am very close to the end of my LS1 into a 240sx swap... and have a few last issues with LS1 holes and ports that I have no clue where they go to and what they do, or what goes into them..or if I can just plug them off.
This is for a race car..with no emmissions and is not winter driven..
first picture shows 2 ports on the passenger side of the throttle body area..any hints at what tehy are and what to do with them?
next pic is on the top of the throttle body area..any idea about tehse?
next pic same area....any clue?
this next pic has me stumped...its at the rear of the engine near where i have the MAP sensor..it goes onto the block..no clue?
please advise if you can...
1=what each port does
2=what fluid is going through it
3=where to plumb it to..
4=if its actually required in my race car
HUGE THANKS
Adam
#2
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1sp pic - I think that is recirculation for your oil on your heads, positive vacuum or something. I left mine hooked up. let me find some pics in a sec. Whether it's required is arguable, I personally believe it is, but I've heard people argue otherwise.
2nd pic - top/middle is for EGR, not required to run. This is a part GM makes stock, I have a spare. The port on the right can be capped with no problem. EGR is not required for your purpose - just cap it off.
third pic is your steam line. You need to run this to your radiator, you should not cap it off - normally it hooks to the nipple under the throttle body (you can see it just under the black TPS sensor on the right-hand side of the TB. Search forum for "throttle body bypass" for more info on that line, and check the FAQ thread (last page?) for ideas (with pictures) on tricks to tuck the steam vent into the water pump. This is absolutely required to exist, unless you like steam and pressure building up in your heads with nowhere to go.
Last pic - I have NFC what that is. It looks like the approximate location of the bracket that holds on of my sensors in the back. I'll be back in a sec...with pics.
2nd pic - top/middle is for EGR, not required to run. This is a part GM makes stock, I have a spare. The port on the right can be capped with no problem. EGR is not required for your purpose - just cap it off.
third pic is your steam line. You need to run this to your radiator, you should not cap it off - normally it hooks to the nipple under the throttle body (you can see it just under the black TPS sensor on the right-hand side of the TB. Search forum for "throttle body bypass" for more info on that line, and check the FAQ thread (last page?) for ideas (with pictures) on tricks to tuck the steam vent into the water pump. This is absolutely required to exist, unless you like steam and pressure building up in your heads with nowhere to go.
Last pic - I have NFC what that is. It looks like the approximate location of the bracket that holds on of my sensors in the back. I'll be back in a sec...with pics.
#3
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"first picture shows 2 ports on the passenger side of the throttle body area..any hints at what tehy are and what to do with them?"
PVC!
"next pic is on the top of the throttle body area..any idea about tehse?"
EGR. You need to block this! Your older LS1 intake will not work if this isn't blocked. Several people make the plate with an o-ring to seal it. The fancy chrome one from S&P costs $47. Put a vacuum cap over the little fitting with the yellow tape on the right side there...
"next pic same area....any clue?"
STEAM TUBE. There are many opinions on how and where to do it, but you better get them returned to the radiator somehow. Read the 69 Camaro Sticky...
"this next pic has me stumped...its at the rear of the engine near where i have the MAP sensor..it goes onto the block..no clue?"
Oile pressure sender location. If your computer isn't looking for oil pressure because you changed the sofware, you can use this port for your gauge, you are using an oil pressure gauge, right?
Note that with the MAP on the back of the intake, there are two vacuum pipes. One is for brake booster, the other you can cap. If no brake booster, cap the big one too!
PVC!
"next pic is on the top of the throttle body area..any idea about tehse?"
EGR. You need to block this! Your older LS1 intake will not work if this isn't blocked. Several people make the plate with an o-ring to seal it. The fancy chrome one from S&P costs $47. Put a vacuum cap over the little fitting with the yellow tape on the right side there...
"next pic same area....any clue?"
STEAM TUBE. There are many opinions on how and where to do it, but you better get them returned to the radiator somehow. Read the 69 Camaro Sticky...
"this next pic has me stumped...its at the rear of the engine near where i have the MAP sensor..it goes onto the block..no clue?"
Oile pressure sender location. If your computer isn't looking for oil pressure because you changed the sofware, you can use this port for your gauge, you are using an oil pressure gauge, right?
Note that with the MAP on the back of the intake, there are two vacuum pipes. One is for brake booster, the other you can cap. If no brake booster, cap the big one too!
#4
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check out my swap picture gallery:
http://satellitehead.com/gallery/index.php?cat=3
here are some pics to help.
#1 pic above: http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...195&fullsize=1
#2 photo above (notice the black connection going to the canister on the side): http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...191&fullsize=1
also:
http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...198&fullsize=1
#3 photo above: see these threads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=49
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....1&postcount=41
#4 photo above - I think it might be the oil pressure sensor: http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...193&fullsize=1
http://satellitehead.com/gallery/index.php?cat=3
here are some pics to help.
#1 pic above: http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...195&fullsize=1
#2 photo above (notice the black connection going to the canister on the side): http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...191&fullsize=1
also:
http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...198&fullsize=1
#3 photo above: see these threads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=49
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....1&postcount=41
#4 photo above - I think it might be the oil pressure sensor: http://satellitehead.com/gallery/dis...193&fullsize=1
Last edited by shifty`; 04-27-2007 at 12:42 PM.
#7
with the steam line ...from what I have read i can just loop it ..no?
its hooked into the coolent system..and the car will not be driven in the winter ..any issues with just looping it?
its hooked into the coolent system..and the car will not be driven in the winter ..any issues with just looping it?
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#9
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Originally Posted by bygblok
the steam line needs to be able to vent to a source slightly higher than the line itself I beleive like maybe a heater hose line etc. It's needed to insure all the air pockets are out of the heads and you're getting full water flow for cooling.
ADAM: when you say "loop the steam line" what exactly do you mean?
#10
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PS -
That EGR hole in the top middle of your manifold. GM part number 12558346 is a stock blockoff plate for that hole. Price from them is $11.03 without shipping. If you want the spare leftover from my project, pay shipping on it and it's yours (~$10).
It's easy enough to fab your own blockoff for it, but if you want the stock part, I have this one I'll never use
That EGR hole in the top middle of your manifold. GM part number 12558346 is a stock blockoff plate for that hole. Price from them is $11.03 without shipping. If you want the spare leftover from my project, pay shipping on it and it's yours (~$10).
It's easy enough to fab your own blockoff for it, but if you want the stock part, I have this one I'll never use
#11
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For the steam line, I was looking at the 07 trucks yesterday. For the 5.3L engines, gm doesn't route the lines through the throttleboy anymore. The steam line goes directly into the radiator about 2/3 up on the passenger side. This is what I did on my engine.
#13
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Originally Posted by ADAM HUTCHINSON
hmmm maybe i will just vent it to the rad hose then...just to be safe..
i'm running my steam line to a radiator surge tank as it's the highest point of the cooling system and rids of any trapped air bubbles.
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Don't route to surge tank, you'll just steam all your coolant out to it. It's got to go back to the pressurized side of your coolant system. Like to the water pump case, radiator hose tee, heater hose tee or radiator core tank. I made a tee using a vent and fill tee for heater hose. Put a brass barb fitting in the screw on lid, then filled with jb weld around the fitting threads to seal to the screw on cap. Cheap and works good.Ran rubber hose to the head vents. This tee goes in the heater return line.
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Originally Posted by eagleuh1
Don't route to surge tank, you'll just steam all your coolant out to it. It's got to go back to the pressurized side of your coolant system. Like to the water pump case, radiator hose tee, heater hose tee or radiator core tank. I made a tee using a vent and fill tee for heater hose. Put a brass barb fitting in the screw on lid, then filled with jb weld around the fitting threads to seal to the screw on cap. Cheap and works good.Ran rubber hose to the head vents. This tee goes in the heater return line.
You will bleed all of your coolant out of the system. It needs to be ran back into the pressurized part of the cooling system. I tapped the top of my water pump and ran it back there.
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Originally Posted by eagleuh1
Don't route to surge tank, you'll just steam all your coolant out to it. It's got to go back to the pressurized side of your coolant system. Like to the water pump case, radiator hose tee, heater hose tee or radiator core tank. I made a tee using a vent and fill tee for heater hose. Put a brass barb fitting in the screw on lid, then filled with jb weld around the fitting threads to seal to the screw on cap. Cheap and works good.Ran rubber hose to the head vents. This tee goes in the heater return line.
not a factory surge tank, my radiator is a custom race unit. I have to run a surge tank and the surge tank is part of the pressure system not an overflow/surge tank like seen on most:
Mine is set to have feeds from the top of the radiator, the steam vent, and it returns to the water pump, keep in mind, this is all while pressurized.