Building a Forged Shortblock
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Building a Forged Shortblock
So if I were to purchase a used LS1 shortblock what would be required to forge it? and what kind of price range would i be looking at?
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You are goin to need a bare block. Forged crank, forged pistons, forged connecting rods. All the connecting rod bolts, the bearings, and possibly have the block honed and maybe even bored to fit the pistons and then have the machinist make sure the rods are good on the clearance, then have somebody machine the parts to precision, then have a block builder put it together by checking the bearing gaps and piston ring(s) gap and then assemble it. I think it might be easier and maybe cheaper to go the speedinc.com way and just purchase the damn block already forged and assembled for about 2800.00 and have piece of mind to go with it.
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Originally Posted by 1fastz
You are goin to need a bare block. Forged crank, forged pistons, forged connecting rods. All the connecting rod bolts, the bearings, and possibly have the block honed and maybe even bored to fit the pistons and then have the machinist make sure the rods are good on the clearance, then have somebody machine the parts to precision, then have a block builder put it together by checking the bearing gaps and piston ring(s) gap and then assemble it. I think it might be easier and maybe cheaper to go the speedinc.com way and just purchase the damn block already forged and assembled for about 2800.00 and have piece of mind to go with it.
Why a forged crank? Whats wrong with the stock one?
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TTT. wondering this also. im pickin up a used Forged 347 with a stock crank. any issues i should be worried about
(i TTT'd this so i wouldnt have to make a new topic....so i dont wanna hear about resurecting old threads! lol)
(i TTT'd this so i wouldnt have to make a new topic....so i dont wanna hear about resurecting old threads! lol)
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If you have a bare block and are looking for all of the components to fill it with, we are having a sale on our forged rotating assemblies for $2075! We can even work with your provided block and put a killer short block together for ya!
Here is a link to the K1 Tech/ Wiseco Rotating Assemblies:
http://weberracing.net/Engine-Type-G...184/index.html
Here is a link to the K1 Tech/ Wiseco Rotating Assemblies:
http://weberracing.net/Engine-Type-G...184/index.html
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#10
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If you are staying stock cubes or close to it, I would leave the stock crank and throw a set of forged rods and pistons in it. I have seen stock cranks take well over 1000 HP and I have yet to see one actually break. Chances are you will need to have your block honed to not only clean the bore up but get them matched to the larger bore pistons. There are very few options for pistons for the factory bore size. Aside from pistons you will want to put a good set of H-beam connecting rods in as well. Most will come with ARP 8740 rod bolts but you can upgrade to ARP 2000 bolts if you would like or if you are looking to throw a big power adder of some kind at it. Other than that, have the rotating assembly balanced, put a set of rings in it for your application, re-bearing the rods and mains and put it back together!
Feel free to give me a call with any questions you might have. We can get you setup with everything you will need! We have some pretty good deals on both Diamond pistons and Eagle rod combos but we can always set something up if you prefer Callies, Lunati, and Oliver to name a few!
Feel free to give me a call with any questions you might have. We can get you setup with everything you will need! We have some pretty good deals on both Diamond pistons and Eagle rod combos but we can always set something up if you prefer Callies, Lunati, and Oliver to name a few!
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my plans are heads/cam and the occasionally nitrous pass at the track. the forged shortblock i picked up is as follows
Ross pistons, Lunatti rods, stock crank, 2cc valve reliefs, ARE built with a little over 3k miles.
Ross pistons, Lunatti rods, stock crank, 2cc valve reliefs, ARE built with a little over 3k miles.
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Thanks,
Leo