View Full Version : Is it hard to install an intank walboro pump?


99MONGOOSE
02-19-2003, 02:30 PM
I want to run a TnT F1 wet system, but if I spray with my current H/C then I will be in the redzone with my stock pump. I have been told to get a Walboro 340 or the Racetronix dual pump. Is it tough to drop the tank and install one of these pumps? Any advice? This will be going in my 99 SS with the Moser 12 bolt.

MIGHTYMOUSE
02-19-2003, 02:56 PM
its not tough, you just have to get in there and do it. there are guys here that have done the walbro install in a plastic tank like yours.. ask rodent or noyzee abou it. it definitely looks like it is more of a pain than with a steel tank as in 98's.. thats easy.

Chris99WS6PWTMET
02-19-2003, 06:19 PM
The tank removal is a pretty straight forward job actually. Modifying the fuel module for the pump install is the most time consuming part as you need to do some slight "modification" to the module housing. A dremel tool, a drill, some clamps, some rubber, and a little bit of mechanical ability and you're in there!!

35th SS
02-27-2003, 12:32 AM
not hard at all.make it easy to yourself just cut the squire metal at the back of the car to get to access the fuel pmp.rather than under the car.255lph walbro installed.

AzzHauler
02-27-2003, 07:42 AM
Just make sure the fuel line is VERY secure when you put the tank back up. Nothing quite like the line blowing off in the middle of the road, then having to drop the tank again just to put that back on. I'm not really fond of that damn clip anyways...

35th SS
02-27-2003, 11:28 AM
no dropping the gas tank for me to access the fuel pmp.just an access or opening hole on the back of the car under the carpet. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

14u2nv
02-27-2003, 07:49 PM
35th do you have any pics on this access panel(opening) to your tank?

35th SS
02-28-2003, 03:36 AM
sorry no pics at this time.but me and a friend is getting ready to do his on his lt1 soon.also will be doing it on the 35th as soon as I get a hold of another walbro 255lph.will take some pics and have him post it in here for everybody to see.had 2 persons email me already and just tried my best to explain how to do it.

mgreen
02-28-2003, 06:34 AM
Did a Walbro ~1 1/2 years ago on my car. . . serious pain in the ass w/ the '98s and the solid filler neck that doesn't allow you to drop the tank w/o dropping the axle.

Anyways, it died again (not the pumps fault). So, my friend came over and helped cut a hole in the rear, and it took ~2 hours, start to finish, including a ride to the hardware store, and that was serious lolly gaggin'. I figure I can swap a pump now in ~1/2 hour or less.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

35th SS
02-28-2003, 10:41 AM
there you go mgreen got the idea.its a serious pain in the ass to drop the rear end on this cars.now have an access hole and wham Im right there no problem.

99MONGOOSE
02-28-2003, 10:47 AM
Can one of you post some pics of this access opening? I would rather cut a hole then have to drop my 12 bolt. I am lazy, see and nothing ever goes right the first time for me. I don't want to be dropping the rear 2 or 3 times.

35th SS
03-02-2003, 12:01 AM
sorry no pics. right now but will soon.

DOC OTIS
03-02-2003, 05:46 AM
35th SS - I am getting ready to install my pump. I would love to try leaving the tank in the car like you did. Any advice or pointers you have other that what is already mentioned? Any idea when your pics will be available? Thanks

Mike K.
03-02-2003, 05:01 PM
Check this link out, he has pictures and he also cut the hole in the floorboard, just scroll down to where it says walbro pump and click on the pictures hyperlink.


http://home.attbi.com/~gmurphy1/camdir.htm


I wonder what the best way is to seal up the hole once you are done though?

<small>[ March 02, 2003, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: Mike K. ]</small>

Sears
03-02-2003, 07:06 PM
I've done walbro 340s on 2 different 98s. There is no need to remove the rear. Just support the rear frame and let the rear hang. You can get the tank almost all they way down, enough room to remove the unit. The steel filler neck will bend. I'll get some pics of this tomorrow.

btw, get the dual pumps and have the second come on with whatever device you have arming the TNT kit. I don't feel the single is enough for your application or mine. The FP will still spike down.

Justin

Sears
03-02-2003, 07:06 PM
I've done walbro 340s on 2 different 98s. There is no need to remove the rear. Just support the rear frame and let the rear hang. You can get the tank almost all they way down, enough room to remove the unit. The steel filler neck will bend. I'll get some pics of this tomorrow.

btw, get the dual pumps and have the second come on with whatever device you have arming the TNT kit. I don't feel the single is enough for your application or mine. The FP will still spike down.

Justin

35th SS
03-03-2003, 12:46 AM
those pictures are exactly what Im talking about.did mine just like that except lengthwise I cut little longer so the opening access to the pump is not restricted.only advice I can give is take your time doing this dont rush it,get your tank at least 1/4 fuel and make sure you dont cut those fuel lines going into the tank.I used a cutting tool like those small disk grinder on a air compressor.if you can fly down here I still have the sheetmetal pattern that I cut out on the 98z when I was doing mine.joke.will use this pattern again when I upgrade pmp.on the 35th soon.

Danny2tek
03-03-2003, 06:17 PM
Quick question for you guy's my fuel gauge sender crapped out <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> Is the sender part of the pump or is it a stand alone? Any advice on how to replace it? (don't say drop the rear <img border="0" alt="[worship]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> )

felton316
03-03-2003, 09:27 PM
What is the deal with the dual pumps? I haven't seen any info on these before and they have me intrigued. Anyone have any links on info?

red ws6 99
03-04-2003, 12:09 AM
35thSS, you wont be able to use the pattern you made for the 98, since the 99 and above had different routing. 98s the lines came out of the tank and went toward the engine. On later cars they come out of the tank and go toward the driver side wheel. Plus on later cars you have probably less than 1/8" clearance between sheet metal and the lines.

Gary

35th SS
03-04-2003, 01:29 AM
thanks redws699 for the heads up.will verify this when I get under the 35th later on.just ordered another walbro for the car.

mustang50hater-my 98z fuel sender is inside the tank.later years prolly inside too.either cut a hole or dropthe rear.take your pick.

99MONGOOSE
03-05-2003, 07:17 AM
ARE offers the dual pump set-up for either $499 or $599 I can't remember.

Black LS1 T/A
03-26-2003, 05:12 AM
ARE offers the Dual Pump setup via a custom Racetronics unit for $499.00. You must send your Sender Unit in, they modify it, and return it to you. It is a custom job.

Considering they outfit it with TWO Walbro pumps, you can see why. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> It's a tight fit in there.

Blown Hawk
04-11-2003, 02:30 PM
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike K.:
<strong>I wonder what the best way is to seal up the hole once you are done though? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ditto, how are you guys sealing the opening?

BH