Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

500+/- rwhp C5 with a healthy 383 stroker, I need a clutch. I want something that will hold the power, and last. I don't mind a stiff pedal, I honestly prefer one over the feathery LS7 clutch I just removed, at the same time I don't want it to break my leg. What would you recommend? And why do I keep hearing horror stories about SPEC clutches? I would like to keep my clutch under $500, I think it can be done. I would go all out but I have already gone WAY over on my budget for this project so Textralia is out. Input?

Fire-formula 93

iTrader: (1)

Well the spec 3 is going to be sort of an on/off clutch because of the 6 puck design. The spec 3+ is said to be much better for daily driven applications with a pedal stiffness a bit more than stock, but the "+" option is $130 so that puts you over the $500 mark. The spec 4 doesnt even sound like an option for you. It will have a pretty stiff pedal and it will suck for city driving (puck design)

Like you said, I have heard many horror stories about the spec clutches but there are also those that swear by them. To me (just reading the board), it seems like if they are not broken in absolutely perfect then they fail before a few thousand miles.

If I were you, the RAM HD would be my choice. It's even under $400.

Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

The only thing that scares me about the RAM is I've seen a thread or 2 where springs have broken on the RAM pressure plate. Dropping the drivetrain on a C5 is ALOT harder than on an F-body, and I want something I'm not going to have to **** with at the 10K mile mark. I should note that this car has never been to and probably never will go to the track, its a street car that I will admit I get into the occasional rumble but there will be no 7,000rpm clutch dumps or slicks in the picture. I don't mind a stiff pedal, but I don't want to have to fight with it to shift, and if I want to cruise for a few hours I dont want my leg to fall off

teke184

iTrader: (5)

i installed the SPEC 4 wth and fidanza flywheel on my cammed LS1....with stock 99 master cylinder and upgraded slave....there was NO change in pedal feel.

i recently pulled it all out again to fix a broken hydrolic line to the slave, and after 2yrs and 7K miles of street driving the clutch pucks were still in great shape. stock thickness is .310"....mine was about .305"...and spec suggested replacement if under .280" so i've got plenty of life left.

i didn't notice ANY change in pedal untill i put in a new master this time, upgraded to the RAM adjustable unit. now it's stiffer, but in NO WAY too much to use or even make you tired.



the main horror stories i've heard from SPEC is with the sprung disc....the 4 is solid disc....so no worries.

but it does grab hard

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

A 2+ or a 3 would honestly be plenty for the power that you are making. Especially if you are daily driving the vehivle. The 2+ will be more progressive and 3 will be more on and off in terms of engagement. Either are perfectly fine for the set-up that you have though. You should contact one of our dealer (a number of them sponsor this forums, including Tbyrne, WS6 Store, etc...). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

Hey CZ28.com buddy I will put 7K miles on the car in 3 months easy, I drive the **** out of this thing in the summer because from the end of october to mid april it sits in the garage

Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

What about what teke said with the sprung disc vs the solid? I don't want to deal with a clutch that is known to have problems as you have to remove everything but the engine to change the clutch in a C5 and I DO NOT want to do it again for another few summers

Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

Nevermind on the spec https://ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisp...aysprune=&f=14

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Everyone on staff here runs sprung hubs...that should be evidence enough in our faith in the assemblies. Of course if you would like to use a rigid hub you certainly can. It will be a bit more on and off but this is something that you will get used to in time. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

Stick only

Keep it sprung. That is what absorbs the initial hit on the driveline, solid hubs are really for race only, I believe my Spec buddy above will agree!

As for broken springs, this can happen on any clutch, usually on the downshift side. There is less travel for the hub on this side of rotation and it can bottom on the rivets/bolts and break it out. Matching on downshifts eliminates the problem.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Stick, the greatest cause for spring cover failures is in fact shock to the assembly. Hard down shifts without rev matching is one way this occures. Excessive input-shaft play is another. The springs work to dampen this shock. In most DD applications sprung hub discs will provide a more progressive engagement and thus feel better to the driver. Of course...if you want a rigid hub we can certainly oblige you. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,