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polish valve covers or paint valve covers

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Old 05-12-2007, 12:40 AM
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Default polish valve covers or paint valve covers

redpaint or alot of mothers polish
Old 05-12-2007, 10:41 AM
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Id say paint, b/c if your car is a DD then polished valve covers you will have to do alot of maintenance on them.
Old 05-12-2007, 11:06 AM
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I have polished valve covers, and it is not a DD and there never come clean all water spotted no matter how much I polish them better off to paint them.!!!
Old 05-12-2007, 04:05 PM
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Polish!!! It's worth the effort.
Old 05-12-2007, 04:10 PM
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Paint em unless you like spending alot of time cleaning it up.
Old 05-12-2007, 05:44 PM
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Default I had both at one point...

Painted...


Polished...
Old 05-12-2007, 07:39 PM
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can I buy them already polished or do I need to send mine out? I hate having downtime.
Old 05-12-2007, 07:46 PM
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Paint
Old 05-12-2007, 09:54 PM
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Damn thats sick as hell polished, but I like my black ss witht he black valve covers. I dont have to polish every weekend. What did you use to polish all of that? Im about to do my tb, and maf. Any pointers?
Old 05-12-2007, 11:18 PM
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I'll sell my powdercoated lollipop red LS1's. 200% better then paint.
Old 05-12-2007, 11:30 PM
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if i was going to do anything powder coat is the way to go
Old 05-12-2007, 11:50 PM
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I say paint em, the maintence on them would be REDICULOUS!!!
Old 05-13-2007, 12:46 AM
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Default what to do

i started doing one by hand and took like 3 hours and its only a little shiny and if i paint them it would have to be spray can b/c i cant aford powder coat right now what to do what to do would high heat spray can paint hold up
Old 05-13-2007, 12:52 AM
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Default any hints on polishing

2 make it easier and faster and shiny
Old 05-13-2007, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by droptopT/A
i started doing one by hand and took like 3 hours and its only a little shiny and if i paint them it would have to be spray can b/c i cant aford powder coat right now what to do what to do would high heat spray can paint hold up
VHT High heat spray paint and clear coat.


Or go this route.

Tired of continually polishing aluminum or pot metal?

Here's the complete long term answer! Clearcoat It.
  1. Polish the part (for the last time), spray on a coat of Clear VHT and allow to dry.
  2. Take the bike, or car, for a spin, and the engine heat will cure the coating!
  3. That's it! Finished - for good!
  4. Ideal for Use on:
    • Automotive Exhaust
    • Snowmobiles Jet Ski
    • Motorcycle Exhaust & aluminum parts
    • Barbecues Franklin Stoves Fireplaces Mufflers
VHT FlameProof coating was originally developed some 30 years ago and is now used as a protective coating for the white-hot surfaces of space-bound and re-entry vehicles.

Since its inception, new ideas for applications have been developed by numerous industrial, automotive, and electrical engineers. These include aerospace hardware, smoke stacks, jet engines, heat exchangers, boilers, heaters, exhaust manifolds, mufflers, steam pipes, barbecues, electrical hardware, and countless other applications where resistance to high temperatures and/or weathering is required.

Leading major industrial firms have come to rely on VHT FlameProof coating to solve many of their most difficult problems. Firms such as IBM, Corning glass, Colt Industries, B.F. Goodrich, Bechtol Corporation, Combustion Engineering, Air Research, Alcoa, RCA, Raytheon, NASA, Hughes Aircraft Lockheed, Cessna, North American Rockwell, and countless others equally impressive have benefited by VHT's progress in high temperature coatings.

Surface preparation:
  1. No special surface preparation is required, except removal of oil films, etc.
  2. Anodized, irridited and alodyned surfaces can be directly coated with VHT FlameProof for lower temperature use only.
Thinning:

Thin as necessary with a quality grade lacquer thinner available from local supplier. Do not thin more than 25% by volume.

Application:

Apply a THIN, even coat - just enough to thoroughly COLOR. Excessive build-up is not necessary or recommended. In applications requiring heavy coating, build-up should be done in stages, each successive coat being cured as recommended below nominal coating wet thickness .0015" - .002". VHT FlameProof coatings require no primer.

Curing:

On non-traffic surfaces and where solvent resistance is not required, VHT FlameProof coating may be used as is. Air-dried curing may be accomplished by the inherent heat of operation such as encountered in engine manifolds and exhausts, boilers, heaters, etc. or by following the curing instructions below. VHT FlameProof coatings will air dry in 15 to 30 minutes and, if handled with reasonable care, may be put to immediate use.

Heat curing method for maximum resistance to solvents, salt spray, humidity, thermal shock and heat:

In a dedicated electric oven:
  • 15 minutes at 250�F
  • 30 minutes at 600�F
  • 1 hour at 800�F
  • 30 minutes at 1,000�F.
ALL CURING SHOULD BE DONE SLOWLY
Old 05-13-2007, 01:05 AM
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Default man that s cool

i am speechles thanks great help
Old 05-13-2007, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by droptopT/A
i am speechles thanks great help
LoLzzzzzzzzzz!!!!!!!
Dat's right let everybody know who's da man with da plan.

Old 05-13-2007, 09:09 PM
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It seems like yesterday when you joined this site and you already have over 1,000 posts kage

Oh yea, good information. I cleared my old aluminum manifold and it turned yellow. Any ideas on why it did that?
Old 05-13-2007, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
It seems like yesterday when you joined this site and you already have over 1,000 posts kage.
Oh yea, good information. I cleared my old aluminum manifold and it turned yellow. Any ideas on why it did that?
Cause i don't **** a round brah.
What brand of clear did you use?

Last edited by Kage; 05-13-2007 at 09:31 PM.
Old 05-13-2007, 09:20 PM
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It was quite some time ago I dont remember. I wanna say dupli color but I'm probably a liar.


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