Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Trying to remove the clutch MC

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-12-2007, 01:19 AM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default Trying to remove the clutch MC

Ok I got everything undone/unbolted its still a pain in the *** to remove tho is there a trick to it?
Old 05-12-2007, 01:26 AM
  #2  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
 
Mike44138's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Nope, once you get the u-bolt out just keep wiggling it untill it comes out. You'll need the line disconnect from the slave, and the linkage disconnected from the clutch pedal obviously. When you install the new one, bench bleed it and install it with the reservoir connected and full.
Old 05-12-2007, 01:39 AM
  #3  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Ok I guess my prob was I was trying to pull the mc and u-bolt all out together ill try just taking off the u-bolt first.
Old 05-12-2007, 01:40 AM
  #4  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Another thing where the line attaches to the slave is the connection to the slave suppose to wiggle a little? Mine does just want to make sure that normal.
Old 05-12-2007, 02:18 AM
  #5  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
 
Mike44138's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The line that goes into the slave should engage with a positive click. There might be a little wiggle, but it should be much. Maybe a little in and out movement at most.
Old 05-12-2007, 02:22 AM
  #6  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

No like the part that comes off the slave that you attach the line to I can move that a little.
Old 05-12-2007, 02:31 AM
  #7  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
911ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

i dunno about wiggle but i think itll turn.... i pulled my master out from the bottom of the car. i installed the new one from the top of the car. to make hooking the u bolt up easier, when the mc is in place hook it to the pedal and thatll help line it up with the holes.
Old 05-12-2007, 02:33 AM
  #8  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Thanks guys.
Old 05-12-2007, 03:45 PM
  #9  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
 
Mike44138's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Oh, you're talking about the hardline connection into the slave. Yeah, a little wiggle is normal.

Last edited by Mike44138; 05-14-2007 at 10:23 PM.
Old 05-12-2007, 07:43 PM
  #10  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Mike44138
Oh, you're talking about the harline connection into the slave. Yeah, a little wiggle is normal.
Ok cool
Old 05-14-2007, 12:20 AM
  #11  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Tried to get it out again today and finally got it with help from my dad it was a bitch. It kept wanting to go up and hit the brake booster and the U-bolt kept binding up. After I got it all out we seen the u-bolt needed stretched a little bit then it didnt bind up.
Old 05-14-2007, 09:54 AM
  #12  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
 
Hugger Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Holly, MI
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Yeah I just replaced mine last week. What a PITA!!! Luckily we had the trans out for my clutch swap so we could reach up from the bottom and down from the top. But what a chore. I had to wear kevlar sleeves on my arm as the engine block was tearing into my arm trying to manipulate that master into place. But it is all in now. I just hope I don't have to do that again anytime soon.

We had the same trouble with the u-bolt binding but finally managed to get it to line up and pop in. Had one of us pushing from outside and one wiggling from the inside and to put the nuts on once it slid in.
Old 05-14-2007, 01:39 PM
  #13  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
 
02NBMWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

you guys are doing it from the top right? i had a hell of a time when i tried to do it from the bottom. From the top its only a 20 minute job
Old 05-14-2007, 02:38 PM
  #14  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I tried both the u-bolt just kept getting hung up.
Old 05-14-2007, 02:39 PM
  #15  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (66)
 
blk00ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Jasper, AL
Posts: 2,366
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

I read somewhere that you can unbolt your brake booster and it makes it helluva lot easier
Old 05-14-2007, 02:41 PM
  #16  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by blk00ss
I read somewhere that you can unbolt your brake booster and it makes it helluva lot easier
I was about to do that next.
Old 05-14-2007, 04:14 PM
  #17  
Teching In
 
fuel man's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Holly Hill, Florida
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Remove from the top?

Originally Posted by 02NBMWS6
you guys are doing it from the top right? i had a hell of a time when i tried to do it from the bottom. From the top its only a 20 minute job
Please explain how you can do this from the top.
I have to take mine back out, The "auto parts store" apparently sold me the wrong master. Which is the problem i'm having in my last thread. The rod is just over 1/4" to long causing the pedal to be about 1 1/2" higher then it should be.
Old 05-14-2007, 04:24 PM
  #18  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
 
ls1leadfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Greenwood, IN
Posts: 894
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

i just installed a ram adjustable and it was a pita also.....you need to take off the resivor tube and slide the assembly at an angle towards your exhaust.....seems like a pain but i fished mine in from the bottom and a buddy was inside by the firewall and grabbed the linkage to pull it into the correct spot....good luck man
Old 05-14-2007, 04:30 PM
  #19  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (22)
 
02NBMWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

go in from the top of the engine bay on the left side of the brake booster and you should be able to get your hand right on it. Once its loose, mine came out with only a couple of wiggles. it took me 20 minutes to do it that way and about 45 minutes trying to force it in from underneath. i would never try it from the bottom again.
Old 05-14-2007, 04:38 PM
  #20  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
SpdFrk1990's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I was going to do the drill mod but a guy that runs a local performance shop mods the mc and makes it adjustable so im taking the assembly to him and he will do the drill mod for me also and flush it with new fluid.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:36 PM.