Road Race/Drift Cam question
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Road Race/Drift Cam question
yes I searched too!
I'm rather new here, and will be doing road racing and drifting. The car is NOT street driven, but i'd like to keep it fairly mild mannered and reliable.
the setup will be in a nissan 240sx tipping the scales around 2500lbs. with me in it.
Motor:
- stock bottom-end
- PRC dual valve springs + titanium retainers
- Hardland sharp OEM rebuilt 1.7 rockers
- Comp 7.400" hardened push rods
- Typhoon intake manifold
- 90mm throttle body
- 42# injectors
- Electromotive TecGT engine management
- custom long-tubes w/ 1.75" primaries
- ARP rod bolts
The engine will be running E85 for fuel and I'd like to spin it to 7k on a regular basis if safe/possible
From what i've found in the search (which is rather intermittent)
Is that I shouldn't go with anything too aggressive; i'm fine with that.
I have gathered, my best bet is a cam in the area of: 232/232 w/ around .600"/.600" of lift.
However, from what I read I need to really keep an eye on the ramp rates and keep it more moderate than a lot of the drag race guys seem to like.
So, that being said; does it all sound right?
Any input, even suggestions as to what cam, or what I should expect, or do or whatever, i'm fairly new to the LSx stuff!
I'm rather new here, and will be doing road racing and drifting. The car is NOT street driven, but i'd like to keep it fairly mild mannered and reliable.
the setup will be in a nissan 240sx tipping the scales around 2500lbs. with me in it.
Motor:
- stock bottom-end
- PRC dual valve springs + titanium retainers
- Hardland sharp OEM rebuilt 1.7 rockers
- Comp 7.400" hardened push rods
- Typhoon intake manifold
- 90mm throttle body
- 42# injectors
- Electromotive TecGT engine management
- custom long-tubes w/ 1.75" primaries
- ARP rod bolts
The engine will be running E85 for fuel and I'd like to spin it to 7k on a regular basis if safe/possible
From what i've found in the search (which is rather intermittent)
Is that I shouldn't go with anything too aggressive; i'm fine with that.
I have gathered, my best bet is a cam in the area of: 232/232 w/ around .600"/.600" of lift.
However, from what I read I need to really keep an eye on the ramp rates and keep it more moderate than a lot of the drag race guys seem to like.
So, that being said; does it all sound right?
Any input, even suggestions as to what cam, or what I should expect, or do or whatever, i'm fairly new to the LSx stuff!
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To be honest I'd contact Crane Cams or Comp and talk to there valvetrain department. I've delt with Crane many times and they'll take the time to help you figure out what cam is ideal for your needs. This is what I'd do before going on here and asking random people's oppinions.
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Originally Posted by LSWon00
To be honest I'd contact Crane Cams or Comp and talk to there valvetrain department. I've delt with Crane many times and they'll take the time to help you figure out what cam is ideal for your needs. This is what I'd do before going on here and asking random people's oppinions.
point well taken, i'm going to give a few manufacturers a call.
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Originally Posted by mattmartindrift
i guess I should mention I don't want to remove the heads and do any fly cutting either, if i can get away with it.
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I hope you are not using a completely stock bottom end. I would at least upgrade the rod bolts to ARPs if you are spinning your motor at 7K rpms. :-O
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 05-14-2007 at 11:17 AM.
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Originally Posted by mattmartindrift
yes I searched too!
Motor:
- stock bottom-end
- PRC dual valve springs + titanium retainers
- Hardland sharp OEM rebuilt 1.7 rockers
- Comp 7.400" hardened push rods
- Typhoon intake manifold
- 90mm throttle body
- 42# injectors
- Electromotive TecGT engine management
- custom long-tubes w/ 1.75" primaries
- ARP rod bolts
Motor:
- stock bottom-end
- PRC dual valve springs + titanium retainers
- Hardland sharp OEM rebuilt 1.7 rockers
- Comp 7.400" hardened push rods
- Typhoon intake manifold
- 90mm throttle body
- 42# injectors
- Electromotive TecGT engine management
- custom long-tubes w/ 1.75" primaries
- ARP rod bolts
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Lot of guys have put the old LT1 motors in the Datson 240z and a few LS6s in Nissan 350z.
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
Good Luck on you project
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
Good Luck on you project
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Lot of guys have put the old LT1 motors in the Datson 240z and a few LS6s in Nissan 350z.
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
Also, Gasoline puts out about 37% more energy than e85. However you take that into account when you tune it and inject 35-40% more fuel. When it's all said and done e85 should make more power than gas if it's tuned right. Also if you take into account the price of gas that has the same motor octane as e85(104-108), you save a little over a dollar per gallon.(That takes into consideration the extra fuel you burn when you run e85) I paid 4.95 a gallon for 100 octane last year, and e85 was in the high 2's/gallon last year. If you're paying more than 5.00$/gallon for race gas, running e85 is even a bigger saving.
And don't say it doesn't make power without being able to back that up. There's plenty of cars making 800-1000 to the wheels on the stuff.
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Lot of guys have put the old LT1 motors in the Datson 240z and a few LS6s in Nissan 350z.
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
Good Luck on you project
The first thing they found was the need for cooling. BIG RADATOR and BIG OIL COOLER, along with a dry sump. without these three items the enigne WILL GO BOOMM.
7,000 RPMS does little good with a stock LS6 or fast 90 intake. IIRC both intakes were designed for MAX hp at 6300. So anything over 6600-6800 is really not needed and since your not removing the heads keep the rpms down.
E85 is another issue all together for any kind of HP. Might want to rethink that one or run Sunoco E10 100 octane. Othewise that E85 just does not give any really HP. You will come out of a corner, put your right foot to the floor and ( ummm, one, two, three, four, OH YAH, it will sputter and spurt and slowly get up to speed.) And worse, milage is really bad on the road race ciruit.
E85 has about 1/2 the energy as Petrol.
Good Luck on you project
it has more than that, however this isn't a debate on choices of fuels. I have made power and E85 can be tuned just fine. I don't know what cars you've seen sputter and not run well on the fuel, but my guess is that you might want to tell them to learn to tune, or tell them to get a new tuner.
It's odd that CART uses E100, as NASCAR will be in the very near future if its tuning and running qualities are so poor.
B.T.W. my choice of E85 isn't based on any of the qualities you mentioned; when sunoco can bring their 100 octane down to about $2.00 a gallon, i'll be happy to purchase it, hell, we'll even say $3.50 to compensate for the 30% (on average) less energy per volume unit of E85.
I rarely road race, it's mostly drift, and if I do road race it will be lapping days, not wheel-to-wheel.
The 7,000 rpms isn't so much a choice for power, but my lack of gearing choices forces me there to stay competitive. Factory is a 4.08, and you can't get a taller gear for that rear.
I don't use a FAST 90/90, or an LS6 manifold, but I assume you didn't read much.
as for radiator and oil cooler:
4x30x15 C&R/Visteon counter-flow radiator with integrated water-to-oil heat exchanger, so i've got that covered.
as far as the dry-sump oiling comment -- I find it funny that Fbodies have
competed for YEARS in the SCCA classes which do NOT allow dry-sump oiling systems, however, they manage just fine, they even win, w/o replacing motors every event.
I have competed and worked with many professional race teams, I do know what's needed to run a successful motorsports' car.
A tip for you: When giving advice in the elitist's tongue, it would be more credible with correct spelling and a dash of correct grammar; otherwise, you sound like an uneducated, poorly-informed LSx advocate. I don't think the intelligent LSx community appreciates that much.
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IMO you can run any cam you want to reliably, its just a matter of how much maintenece your willing to keep up with. Most of my mods have been geared towards the turns, and the new motor will either have a big hydraulic, or mild solid roller set up. Just depends on how much $$$ is left over after the bottom end comes together.
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
IMO you can run any cam you want to reliably, its just a matter of how much maintenece your willing to keep up with. Most of my mods have been geared towards the turns, and the new motor will either have a big hydraulic, or mild solid roller set up. Just depends on how much $$$ is left over after the bottom end comes together.
well, like i said, it's a full-time race car. So maintenance isn't a big deal. It spends most of it's life in a garage waiting for that once or twice a month beating.
really something that doesn't fall off too much up high and will peak around 400whp.
#18
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While drifting, what would you say your average rpm bracket is. while going through the course.
With that intake you have, peak on that much cubes is gonna be in the 6300>6500 range.
Regarding the oiling part, dry sump would be wiser.
Also, a factor you want to consider in cam choice is E85.
since it burns cooler, you can run a higher DCR and staying stock headed at 10.1:1 you're not gonna benefit from too many cams.
I would raise compression and run a tight LSA cam intake biased to carry well after peak. This might require flycutting.
Another option would be AFR 205s.
With that intake you have, peak on that much cubes is gonna be in the 6300>6500 range.
Regarding the oiling part, dry sump would be wiser.
Also, a factor you want to consider in cam choice is E85.
since it burns cooler, you can run a higher DCR and staying stock headed at 10.1:1 you're not gonna benefit from too many cams.
I would raise compression and run a tight LSA cam intake biased to carry well after peak. This might require flycutting.
Another option would be AFR 205s.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
While drifting, what would you say your average rpm bracket is. while going through the course.
With that intake you have, peak on that much cubes is gonna be in the 6300>6500 range.
Regarding the oiling part, dry sump would be wiser.
Also, a factor you want to consider in cam choice is E85.
since it burns cooler, you can run a higher DCR and staying stock headed at 10.1:1 you're not gonna benefit from too many cams.
I would raise compression and run a tight LSA cam intake biased to carry well after peak. This might require flycutting.
Another option would be AFR 205s.
With that intake you have, peak on that much cubes is gonna be in the 6300>6500 range.
Regarding the oiling part, dry sump would be wiser.
Also, a factor you want to consider in cam choice is E85.
since it burns cooler, you can run a higher DCR and staying stock headed at 10.1:1 you're not gonna benefit from too many cams.
I would raise compression and run a tight LSA cam intake biased to carry well after peak. This might require flycutting.
Another option would be AFR 205s.
I'd say 4k-6.5k rpms is the average. and 7k peak for some weirdo turns that play a role in gear selection.
Peak in that RPM range is perfect for me. I am aware that a dry-sump system would be wiser, however, my budget constraints currently do not allow for it. For the time being I will be running an accusump + big oil cooler.
Also on the budget constraint tips, would be aftermarket heads and machine work. Possibly down in the next year, i'd like to build a motor with forged everything and many more goodies, but for the time being i'm just trying to use a stockish motor and feel it out from there.
I was under the impression that E85 has a somewhat decent role in cam selection which is why I listed it under the modifications.