Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Clutch not disengaging

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Old 05-26-2007, 06:31 PM
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Exclamation Clutch not disengaging

so heres the problem...
my car was in a wreck before i bought it. it was it pretty on the front driver side. the frame was still good so they just replaced all the broken parts. the problem is though that not the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. Ive tried to diagnose the problem but was unable to come up with a solution. the back of the pedal isn't hitting the firewall or anything and I have check the hydraulic system. I'm fresh out of ideas, anyone here have any for what i can look for or anything like that?
Old 05-26-2007, 06:44 PM
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what clutch is in there? ive had a spec stage 3 clutch take a **** on me and it acted like it wouldnt disengage, because the center springs on the clutch fell out. i could have the clutch pedal down to the floor but it didnt help, and when i would have the clutch pedal down, car in gear and try to start it, the whole car would move
Old 05-26-2007, 11:21 PM
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its just the stock clutch, nothing special
Old 05-27-2007, 12:15 AM
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CHeck your hydraulics. Master cylinder for leaks, actual hydraulic line, and finally possibly pull the transmission to check the slave. If all is good then possibly worn out pressure plate.

Either way you got some work to do. Unless you want to pay and get the full system replaced.

Clutch plate and kit with all hydraulics.
Old 05-27-2007, 07:26 AM
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Clutch could be welded to the flywheel.
Old 05-29-2007, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000Z28M6
CHeck your hydraulics. Master cylinder for leaks, actual hydraulic line, and finally possibly pull the transmission to check the slave. If all is good then possibly worn out pressure plate.
but the thing is the pedal doesn't go all the way down... and the hydraulics aren't leaking. it has to be something mechanical, considering the front of the car was hit hard enough to totally warp the strut tower and buckle the floorboards... we could pull the clutch and tranny chris, but i doubt that would solve the problem... i don't think the tranny would be busted, nor do i think the clutch is bad... yea, the gears grind every now and then, but rather than it being a worn pressure plate, i think it would be due to the fact that the pedal is not going all the way to the floor. something has to be bent in the mechanics, and you really have to get your hands dirty to narrow down the problem. that's really the only way...
Old 05-29-2007, 03:15 PM
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Well i checked it out a little bit (and i mean a LITTLE bit) and at 1st i thought that the back of the pedal was hitting the floorboards... what i found out its that its not. So now i'm not sure weather or not its going all the way down. something else would have to be hitting, its not the pedal. Like you said i'll have to get my hands dirty.
Old 05-29-2007, 10:08 PM
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come over sometime and we can maybe figure it out. the way i figure it is that it has to be SOMETHING... just as long as it's SOMETHING, we can figure it out... right?
Old 05-31-2007, 12:31 AM
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Hey guys,
I had the same problem with My stock clutch after a wreck.
After much fussing I pulled it out and found the adjustment cam on the pressure plate set to full tight. I'm working the problem now.
I dont have any idea if you have the same clutch as me. Mine is a '04 cts-v
LS6 T56 with 16000 Miles
Old 05-31-2007, 11:46 AM
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Stock GM clutches have the wear adjustment. There's a TSB about checking for proper setting cause they have a tendency to move during shipping. What's the condition of the bellhousing, motor mounts and trans mounts? If the input shaft isn't aligned properly it'll cause the disc to bind even though the pressure plate's moving.
Old 05-31-2007, 01:29 PM
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My best guess is that the self-adjusters are no longer evenly set as a result of the crash. Years ago when we used the stock self-sdjusting plates you could see such issues if the box was dropped in route to yhr customer. If you pull the clutch assembly and take a few pics of the plate I can let you know if it is adjuster related. If so, you can compress the diaphragm with a press and use a flat-head screwdriver to reset the adjusters to their default/starting position. They will then reset when the kit is installed and actuated again. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Old 06-01-2007, 12:13 AM
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new info
what the S/B and the serv. manual does not tell is that the pressure plate must be suported by the housing (where the bolts go) not the plate face when you press the fingers.
hope that helps.



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