Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I'm doin a cam/spring swap for a buddy, everything went smooth till I got to the point that I was ready to pull the cam out. I spun the cam and all the lifters clicked up into place except 2 on the passenger side, so I slid the jpr rod in on the drivers side, but no matter how much I spun the cam, these two lifters won't click up into place, so I figured let me try pullin each one up with a pen magnet as I slide the rod in, well, I did the first one, went to pull the magnet out of the pushrod hole and off the lifter and it didn't come off the lifter, instead the rod broke off and the magnet stayed on the lifter, so 2 hours later I finally got the rest of the magnet/rod out, just kept tryin to grab it through the pushrod hole with a grabby tool and finally snagged it good enough to pull it off the lifter and out the hole. Anyways, so after that I figured let me push the rod in and when it stops cuz the lifter is in the way i'll spin the cam while pushing till it gets to the next stop and do the same, so I got the rod all the way in, and then before pulling the cam out I figured let me just check and spun the cam, and the pushrods on those two lifters are still moving when I spin the cam. So I called a buddy and he said as long as that rod is all the way in there, the lifters shouldn't be able to fall and I should be able to pull the cam out now even though those pushrods are still moving. So i'm gonna give it a try in the morning, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has had this experience as well and what everyone thinks just to reassure myself, cuz i'll freak out if I drop a lifter tomorrow, this **** has never happened before and i'm just gettin kind of annoyed!!! Thanks in advance!!!

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The rod is designed to prevent exactly what you're worried about. Some people use the Russian Roulette method with success. You can actually hold the plastic lifer tray in your hand with the oil soaked lifters in them and they won't fall out as long as the trays aren't high mileage. I tried this on all 4 lifter trays on one motor and only one lifter fell out of one tray. You're OK.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks man, I did it this morning, didn't sound like any lifters fell, so I think i'm ok, I put the timing chain back on, and the rockers back on and cranked the motor a few times and everything seems fine.

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

awesome, sounds like you did everything right!!

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, the only thing that is buggin me is that I could not get the cooling system bled, usually on my camaro I start it with the radiator cap off, let it get up to temp and then hold the revs up a little and it'll start to **** and then get a steady stream, it's usually quick and never gives me a problem, this one I couldn't get, I let it idle forever, tried holdin the revs up, tried revin it up real high, tried everything, couldn't get it to ****, had my efilive on it, and the coolant temp stayed cool, it didn't overheat, took it on a small drive, it didn't overheat, but could not get any stream out of the tube that goes into the radiator off the throttle body (I have mine bypassed from the throttle body, but his is still goin through it, could that be causing it?). Finally after ****** with it for a couple hours I told him to come grab the car and just keep an eye on the coolant temp and level.

BlackSVT03

iTrader: (1)

I didnt wanna waste the mods' time and create a new thread, so Ill just ask here. I did my TR224 camswap with the JPR lifter tools, but no longer have the tools at my disposal.

I went to home depot and bought 2 5/16th dowels to hold the lifters up. I am going to coat the wood in oil or wrap them in electrical tape so that they dont splinter. Is there anything wrong with just doing it this way?

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't put tape on them, but oil isn't a bad idea. I used dowels just the way I bought them.

lastcall190

iTrader: (36)

I bought them, sanded down one side flat, along with making the front angled. Made them ~24" long, lubed them up real good with some oil, and they worked perfect.

-J

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Let me ask you guys a quick question, why does the description on the jpr cam tool on thunders website say it can't be used with comp R lifters, what the hell is the difference, and does that mean that they don't work with other aftermarket lifters like the morrells either?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I definately would NOT use tape on the wooden dowel. If it unravels while in the engine you might not get it all out and you'll be looking at a complete tear down. I'd rather see you use a metal dowel or a threaded rod or even the Russian Roulette method than tape on a wooden dowel. The JPR tool should work with the Comp Rs because they are only different on the inside(stronger spring) not on the outside where the JPR tool clamps the lifter. The idea of the tool is that the tool resides in the STEP in the side of the lifter while the cam is out of the engine to keep the lifter from falling. That's why a flat(JPR tool) works better than a round surface(dowel) since steps use flat surfaces at 90 degrees to each other. Actually two flats on the tool instead of just one would be even better match for the step in the side of the lifter. The JPR tool is probably best, but it is overpriced. A metal rod or threaded rod will most likely work just a good and is a heck of a lot cheaper. A wooden dowel would be my last choice(without tape) becase any tool you use can sometimes take considerable force to install and remove. It would be a nightmare if that wooden tool broke off inside of your block. That's why I wouldn't use a wooden dowel.