ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Hey everyone. My car is an 87 Trans am. LS1/T56 swap car for those who dont know.

I just got done replacing the master cylinder, but havent driven the car yet. I have just a few questions about normal behavior for an m6 car.

When Im sitting on level ground, in neutral, and I push in the clutch, the car will very slightly bump forward. Seems like it only does this once. If I go out of 1st and then back in, it stays still. But the next time I come to a stop, it will do it. Is this just the gears meshing and turning slightly causing things to bump foward? By the way...thecar did this before the master swap too. Always did it from the day I got it together...

Also, now that the car is on jacks, if I put it in gear, the tires will rotate a couple times with the clutch in, then come to a stop. Its a very slow rotation...sort of like the "bump" i mentioned above...

I have an adjustable clutch master rod...will making it longer help with this? In other words, it his normal or is the clutch dragging ever so slightly??

My last/other question has to do with bleeding. I noticed that after bleeding my clutch, the conventional way...Im still getting a few little drops of fluid from the bellhousing drain slot. I bled the clutch atleast a week ago. I know there was a lot of fluid that was sprayed around in there, but should I still be seeing a drip or two? Or does it sound like I have a seeping slave cylinder now?

Just basic ?'s! Thanks everyone!

Justin

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The tires should not be moving like you are saying they are. Adusting the master may help this out but if you are leaking hydro fluid than you need to fix that issue first. First make sure it is hydro fluid and not engine oil leaking out of the rear main seal. If its leaking out the slave cylinder then you need a new slave cylinder.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info Brad. The fluid i see is definetly not engine oil. I was just thinking that due to all the fluid that sprays around in there during the bleeding process maybe it takes awhile to drip down and drain out. Especially since Im not running the car so the clutch assembly isnt moving air and what not helping to dry things out. It was just my thought...

Im going to keep my eye on the fluid level once I start to drive it though. See what happens.

Keep the info coming!

Justin

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Well the fluid isnt really dripping out of the bell anymore. I think it was just residual fluid from the bleeding process. Im hoping that there isnt a ton of fluid on my clutch....

Anyway, Im about to adjust my clutch master cylinder to keep the back wheels from slightly spinning when putting the car in gear.

Again, with the rear off the ground, and the clutch in, when I engage 1st gear, the wheels will spin only a little bit. like a couple inches of rotation. then it stops. Then each time I go in and out of 1st it will kind of bump a teeny tiny bit. I just dont know if this is normal for the gears meshing and all...or if its not disengaging the clutch all the way. Ide hate to adjust the master and have it screw something up. I guess I can always adjust it alittle and see what effect it has. I also dont want to be hitting the internal stop of the master with full force either.

Justin

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I looked into it and I believe this may be somewhat normal. When you push the clutch pedal the disk still will spin for a moment and then stop. The pull that you describe may juts be the residual spin on the disk that happens right after you push the pedal down. Try pushing the pedal down and hold it down for about 10 seconds and then push the shifter to first and see if it rolls at all. If it does not roll then its probably what i described.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Will do brad... I kind of figured it was just spinning forces and gears meshing. On a normal car it wouldnt budge the car, but with the torque that I/we make with these motors its enough to feel it in the car. Im going to try what you suggested and leave the pedal pushed in for a few seconds, then push it into 1st. If it still bumps, Im going to extend the master push rod a tiny bit at a time and see if it changes.

Thanks!

Justin

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Just in case there is some confusion to exactly what Im describing, I made a short video today.

First, just ignore the exhaust clamps rattling on the end of my the headers. The open headers are also distorting the sound haha..

Anyway, the vid goes like this. When it starts, the clutch is in, and trans is in neutral. When you see the tire move, thats me putting it in first. Next I release the clutch and spin up the tires. I push the clutch back in to show that the wheels will slow down and stop. I leave it in 1st until it it stops, then I pull it out of gear, and put it back in. I do that a few times and you can see the tire bump alittle here and there....

Here's the vid.

http://video.ls1tech.com/video/c878b...4501502686.htm

Justin

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I wouldnt even worry about that little bit of roll.