GMPP LSX Block and 15K, What would you do?
05-31-2007, 01:17 PM
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GMPP LSX Block and 15K, What would you do? I've been putting off a large buildup for many years now. The time has come to build the engine to go with my project and i need direction.
I know i want to go with the GM performance parts iron lsx block, and a Callies crank. Though i don't know which one to go with. I'd like for you to look at the build as your own and tell me what you would do.
What i want from the engine:
1- To have good normal driving manners
2- To make 600+ WHP NA (If possible)
3- To be reliable at that power output
I hope this is a reasonable request. I look forward to everybodys imput.
TigWiz
PS: 15,000 is the budget set aside at this time and no purchases have been made as of yet. I would also like the option of running nitrous later down the road.
I know i want to go with the GM performance parts iron lsx block, and a Callies crank. Though i don't know which one to go with. I'd like for you to look at the build as your own and tell me what you would do.
What i want from the engine:
1- To have good normal driving manners
2- To make 600+ WHP NA (If possible)
3- To be reliable at that power output
I hope this is a reasonable request. I look forward to everybodys imput.
TigWiz
PS: 15,000 is the budget set aside at this time and no purchases have been made as of yet. I would also like the option of running nitrous later down the road.
05-31-2007, 02:35 PM
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600 rwhp and streetable is going to behard
would you be able to drive on the street? sure. would it be streetable to me, maybe, would my grandmother drive it to the store no.
to make that kind of power na you will need highcompression 13-1 or so, nasty *** heads etp probably, nasty *** intake/t-body, or go carb.
light weight parts, crank rods ect.
good luck with the build.
would you be able to drive on the street? sure. would it be streetable to me, maybe, would my grandmother drive it to the store no.
to make that kind of power na you will need highcompression 13-1 or so, nasty *** heads etp probably, nasty *** intake/t-body, or go carb.
light weight parts, crank rods ect.
good luck with the build.
05-31-2007, 02:53 PM
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LSX 4.200 bore & 4.125 stroke, LS7 heads & Intake, custom cam in the mid to upper 240's intake 250 on the exhaust side, 1 7/8 headers, etc. that would be under $15k with complete install and probally a little over 550rwhp, plus the driveability would probally be awesome.
05-31-2007, 03:53 PM
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Given Bryan at LME a call.
I'd asked him to spec out something exactly like what you're looking for, and it was right at or a little less then $15K...
Paul...
I'd asked him to spec out something exactly like what you're looking for, and it was right at or a little less then $15K...
Paul...
05-31-2007, 04:29 PM
#6
Geez...you guys spend alot money and put unnecessary race parts in stuff.
If it was my customers vehicle, I could hit that easy and come in WAY under the budget. 550rwhp is no problem for standard builds, just a little more work to get that extra 50.
1) 4.125" bore x 4.100" (438"). If your goal is 600 rwhp, skip the callies crank and go with an eagle piece. Thatll give you a $1k to put somewhere better.
2) Eagle H-beam Rods $400
3) Mahle 4032 alloy pistons for a N/A build, Wiseco 2918 alloys for FI $600
4) CNC Ported L92 heads $1600 + ported L76/90mm combo ($800), 7.400'ish pushrods $120
5) 12.5:1 compression with 91/93 octane and a bottle of torco every tank will work fine with pump gas.
6) Harland modified stock l92 rockers
7) Solid roller camshaft, you can make a ton more power without having to put a ton of cam in the motor. Heres where you seperate yourself from the typical 525-550rwhp build. Itll be in the 250'ish duration. It'll idle similar to a high 220's duration in 346" motor. Very tame.
8) all the bolt ons: underdrive pulley, good cold air, good complete exhaust, good 1-7/8 or stepped headers , ls7 lifters etc
probably less than 10k
If it was my customers vehicle, I could hit that easy and come in WAY under the budget. 550rwhp is no problem for standard builds, just a little more work to get that extra 50.
1) 4.125" bore x 4.100" (438"). If your goal is 600 rwhp, skip the callies crank and go with an eagle piece. Thatll give you a $1k to put somewhere better.
2) Eagle H-beam Rods $400
3) Mahle 4032 alloy pistons for a N/A build, Wiseco 2918 alloys for FI $600
4) CNC Ported L92 heads $1600 + ported L76/90mm combo ($800), 7.400'ish pushrods $120
5) 12.5:1 compression with 91/93 octane and a bottle of torco every tank will work fine with pump gas.
6) Harland modified stock l92 rockers
7) Solid roller camshaft, you can make a ton more power without having to put a ton of cam in the motor. Heres where you seperate yourself from the typical 525-550rwhp build. Itll be in the 250'ish duration. It'll idle similar to a high 220's duration in 346" motor. Very tame.
8) all the bolt ons: underdrive pulley, good cold air, good complete exhaust, good 1-7/8 or stepped headers , ls7 lifters etc
probably less than 10k
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05-31-2007, 04:54 PM
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The Callies Compstar crankshaft is a great budget piece that i would suggest, along with a nice set of compstar rods ($200 over eagle). Not saying eagle isn't up to par, but to spend 10K on a nice motor and go cheap doesn't sound right.
05-31-2007, 05:20 PM
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I can't see why 600rwhp would be hard with a 454lsx setup... You can make 550rwhp with a 408 without getting crazy with the heads/cam size. Its all about the correct match up.. With a set of ETP LS7 heads, a decent sized cam, sheet metal intake/tb setup, and perfect tuning I would be extremely pissed if I wasn't AT or NEAR 600rwhp... Just my .2 cents though!
05-31-2007, 05:38 PM
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We are currently finalizing the all new PRC CNC ported LS7 cylinder heads. With head flow numbers near 390cfm I think these cylinder heads & a good camshaft has a excellent chance of making 600rwhp!
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Texas Speed & Performance
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05-31-2007, 07:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Jake@EPP
The Callies Compstar crankshaft is a great budget piece that i would suggest, along with a nice set of compstar rods ($200 over eagle). Not saying eagle isn't up to par, but to spend 10K on a nice motor and go cheap doesn't sound right.
Why not run a sonny bryant billet crank then over the callies? Might as well just keep throwing money at it for higher quality....doesnt make sense to me.
(ive got motors making 1000+ hp on eagle stuff and ive NEVER had a problem. Dont fix whats not broke)
05-31-2007, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tigwiz
I've been putting off a large buildup for many years now. The time has come to build the engine to go with my project and i need direction.
I know i want to go with the GM performance parts iron lsx block, and a Callies crank. Though i don't know which one to go with. I'd like for you to look at the build as your own and tell me what you would do.
What i want from the engine:
1- To have good normal driving manners
2- To make 600+ WHP NA (If possible)
3- To be reliable at that power output
I hope this is a reasonable request. I look forward to everybodys imput.
TigWiz
PS: 15,000 is the budget set aside at this time and no purchases have been made as of yet. I would also like the option of running nitrous later down the road.
I know i want to go with the GM performance parts iron lsx block, and a Callies crank. Though i don't know which one to go with. I'd like for you to look at the build as your own and tell me what you would do.
What i want from the engine:
1- To have good normal driving manners
2- To make 600+ WHP NA (If possible)
3- To be reliable at that power output
I hope this is a reasonable request. I look forward to everybodys imput.
TigWiz
PS: 15,000 is the budget set aside at this time and no purchases have been made as of yet. I would also like the option of running nitrous later down the road.
Get the best if you're gonna build something like this.
.
05-31-2007, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LSInnovations
Going with eagle stuff *ISNT* going cheap. Its great quality stuff that is more applicable to the purpose.
Why not run a sonny bryant billet crank then over the callies? Might as well just keep throwing money at it for higher quality....doesnt make sense to me.
(ive got motors making 1000+ hp on eagle stuff and ive NEVER had a problem. Dont fix whats not broke)
Why not run a sonny bryant billet crank then over the callies? Might as well just keep throwing money at it for higher quality....doesnt make sense to me.
(ive got motors making 1000+ hp on eagle stuff and ive NEVER had a problem. Dont fix whats not broke)
The whole concept of don't fix it if its not broken really should not apply when making a all out motor. If that was the case then i suppose stock rods might work, but wouldn't you want something that can hold great power?
I just like to do overkill on all my projects and don't mind paying the premium for a piece of mind.
05-31-2007, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake@EPP
Being a Vendor of Callies/Compstar products, i use them in pretty much every build. I never said going cheap was going eagle, eagle is fine, but if your doing a nice motor, then put nice parts inside it. It doesn't matter if your only going to hit 600rwhp. You might get the mod bug and want to spray it, a diamond / compstar combo would be perfect here.
The whole concept of don't fix it if its not broken really should not apply when making a all out motor. If that was the case then i suppose stock rods might work, but wouldn't you want something that can hold great power?
I just like to do overkill on all my projects and don't mind paying the premium for a piece of mind.
The whole concept of don't fix it if its not broken really should not apply when making a all out motor. If that was the case then i suppose stock rods might work, but wouldn't you want something that can hold great power?
I just like to do overkill on all my projects and don't mind paying the premium for a piece of mind.
"if it ain't broke don't fix it"...............use lesser parts and it could break, than you will have to fix it. And depending on what fails and when, you may have to start from scracth.
.
05-31-2007, 10:41 PM
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I'll be damned if I build a motor like this and put a set of Eagle rods or Eagle crank in it... Almost every machinist that I know of or have ever talked with has said that Eagle stuff is poor quality and that almost every single Eagle crank they have used has been in poor shape straight out of the box and needed to be turned or rebalanced from the get go..
06-01-2007, 12:17 AM
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"I just like to do overkill on all my projects and don't mind paying the premium for a piece of mind."
This is the reasoning behind my waiting. I wanted to be able to build a car without cutting any corners. I'd also lean towards purchasing an american made product rather than a chineese peice.
This is the reasoning behind my waiting. I wanted to be able to build a car without cutting any corners. I'd also lean towards purchasing an american made product rather than a chineese peice.
06-01-2007, 12:27 AM
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My Engine Builder Said The Same Thing Dont Go With Eagle Compstar Cranks Are Much Better Finish . Just My 2 Cents. I Am Building Close Too The Same Thing Lsx Block Compstar Crank And Rods Diamond Pistons L92 Heads Texas Speed Cam 248/254 .622/.612 So Close I Can Taste It!!!
06-01-2007, 12:46 AM
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Call LME, Canadian Performance, Erik Koenig, Vengeance Performance, as all of these shops will hook you up big time with your budget with $ to spare and build you a killer LSX motor making approx 650rwhp on motor and pump gas! 
06-01-2007, 08:44 AM
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i run an eagle crank and i will be putting it back into my lsx build with my grp alum rods and diamond pistions.
for those who know can tell you there are only a few builders of cranks, connecting rods and valve springs.
you would be surprized at what rods and cranks are the same manufacturer with different names on the box.
some companies however, (lunati) take a piece that is nice like an eagle crank, and they modifie itslightly for better oiling, lighter weight ect, but the 4340 is 4340 made by the same companies so streight is the same ect.
i have done and know of a ton of cars running eagle with no issues.
hell last year was the first time i saw an eagle part fail, it was a rod that was about 5 years old rated at 600 hp and was in a 427 ci small block ford getting hit with 500 worth of spray. car was going 9's for 2 years then 8's for 2 years then finally it broke a rod last year. car made about 1,000 hp for hundres and hundres of runs.
for those who know can tell you there are only a few builders of cranks, connecting rods and valve springs.
you would be surprized at what rods and cranks are the same manufacturer with different names on the box.
some companies however, (lunati) take a piece that is nice like an eagle crank, and they modifie itslightly for better oiling, lighter weight ect, but the 4340 is 4340 made by the same companies so streight is the same ect.
i have done and know of a ton of cars running eagle with no issues.
hell last year was the first time i saw an eagle part fail, it was a rod that was about 5 years old rated at 600 hp and was in a 427 ci small block ford getting hit with 500 worth of spray. car was going 9's for 2 years then 8's for 2 years then finally it broke a rod last year. car made about 1,000 hp for hundres and hundres of runs.
06-01-2007, 10:05 AM
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Just because you spend an extra $1500-2k on a crank or better rods you are not going to make more power. The only thing you are buying is more potential to hold power. If all you are looking for is an N/A 600rwhp motor then go with an eagle crank and save some money for a bad *** set of heads to make the power you are wanting. I know multiple sponsors that have sent out eagle cranks in tons of motors and not had any problems, I have also seen a few motors that have taken 900+ rwhp with eagle cranks as well.