Chevells1

How's it going? My project is a 1971 Chevelle which i am tring to put a 2002 Ls1 in it. Currently I have the Motor(stock) and 6-speed tranny(stock) and a chevelle that has no motor. I have talked to a few people about the swap and have heard a number of stories. I was told to cut the tranny tunnel out and then fab one to fit the six speed tranny and i have also been told that i dont have to do this at all. any advice out there? i just ordered the motor mount kit, i cant wait to get it to throw the motor in and see myself but untill then i come to you guys for advice. Any thoughts of future advice for me on myswap? hints tips all helpfull. I will try to post pics when i figure out how too.
Thanks

enganeer

iTrader: (18)

From everything I have read, the tunnel needs to be cut for the 6 speed. No ifs or buts about it. I have a six speed sitting on a pallet at work and it is very tall.

The 4l60E just requires some minor adjustments for clearance with a hammer.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I did a search here for similar data for an El Camino since my kid has expressed interest in one. From what I've seen, depending on the year of the car the trans tunnel is cut for a T56 (models around your year) and the engine sits back so far that the heaterbox has to be cut (G-body's F quick page, his is a newer model than yours). I've also read about notching the crossmember for the oil pan and the frame rail for the AC comp.

I was really surprised by this since I have a '75 280Z w/ an LT1/T56 with a good bit of room (JTR mounting), an '88 Supra with an LM7/TKO600 (T56 was too big for the tunnel, made my own mounts), and just finished an 88 RX7 with an L33/T56 (Hinson mounts).

With the size of the early 70's Chevelle/El Camino I am really amazed there is not enough room to mount a Gen 3 V8 and tranny without all this work. It seems like since the cars were available with a BBC there should be more than enough room for a Gen 3.

What I did with the Supra was to test-fit the motor and then got a set of the LSX to SBC mounting plates. I got a set of aluminum spacers from Mike at Jags That Run (JTR) from his Z car conversion kit and then used some 1/4" plate steel to move the motor to where I wanted it to sit, then drilled holes accordingly. With the T56 you have to be concerned about where the shifter ends up, and there is also a consideration of driving your speedo since the F-car T56 has an electronic only output.

I'm looking at finding an early 70's Elco & adding a late model 5.3 truck motor & auto tranny.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

You might want to check out this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=Bill

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Which Engine mounts are you buying..? S&P or BRP Style?

With the S&P, ATS or Hooker style, will have to use aftermarket front accessories or relocate some of them. The Oil Pan needs to be cut.

BRP Style can use OEM F-Body Accessories and a stock F-Body or CTS-V oil pan, for the Trans mount, you can just cut off the tab, flip it over and weld it back on. I am using the BRP style mounts, OEM front accessories and a Viper T56. I am using a CTS-V pan.

For the Trans Tunnel, yeah.. cutting it seem to be the only option with a T56. BRP suggest cutting a T slot on the top front of the tunnel and spread it. after which fill it in with more sheet metal.

S&P have web site that give good information, S&P has a few swaps documented. You can request a free catalog and DVD from them.

Would suggest you search on some of the Chevelle guys here on this from, Stealth71 has a good thread going. I have mine documented on Cardomain, link in my sig.

Good luck with your swap.. I have been driving mind since Dec and it is great !

PM me if you want to ask me questions.

Chevells1

Thanks guys for all the responses.....I ordered the motor mount conversion from my buddies shop but i am not to sure what company he ordered it from. I do have a different oil pan but not to sure what it is.....the motor was supposed to go into a 69 Firebird so it had a different oil pan put on ill check that out this week.

here is a pic from when i picked it up from paint



and here is after day 1 of the conversion

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

I like year ones kit. Pretty cheap too.

Also, I had to cut my whole tunnel out for the 4l80e. They say you can t cut the tranny tunnel but I wouldn't bother.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Paint looks good. There are quite a few Chevelle swaps around here. Hopefully mine will run soon. Check the link in my sig.

Chevells1

so i got some goodies today and i tried to set the motor and tranny in but couldnt get both motor mounts in or the oil pan to clear the cross member. I was told that it would be a tight fit. So today i am goin to test fit it again and cut the shifter hole out. I cant figure out if the tranny tunnel is keeping me from getting the motor in or if i just havent found that right angle to get it dropped in. any suggestion would help.

enganeer

iTrader: (18)

Keep us posted on the fit. I will be doing the same soon. Great pics.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah.. those plates are S&P, you will have to cut the oil pan to clear. You should check out the S&P web site, as they document a LS1/T56 into a Chevelle.

Even without the mounts and plates attached.. to get the motor and trans just to drop in is a tight fit with the stock oil pan. You can alway take the trans/bellhousing off and work with the engine as far as working with the mounts.

Suggest you take of the intake and the oil sender to keep from damage to them and give you a little more room to work with for now.

Chevells1

The motor has the S&P Oil Pan, so it should close fit. I read the S&P chevelle swap and it said they cut the boss of the tranny so i am goin to look at that today. I was also told(i dont know if its true) that the 4-speed chevelle had a bigger tranny tunnel so i might have to cut it out.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Ok with the oil pan then... but it is still a tight fit dropping the engine and trans in together.. just use a lot of rags to help it slip pass the contact areas. Oh, and watch out for your brake line, as the engine might pinch or crush it as you are dropping the engine in.
You can alway try un-bolting the body and raising the front up to give you more access room.

I don't beleive that the floor were any different between the Auto and the manual cars.

Chevells1

OK....so i never thought that it would be so difficult to put a LS1 in a chevelle. So i cut the hole for the shifter thinking that would give me a better angle to clear the oil pan from the crossmember but apparently i was wrong. I am using the S&P motor mount adapter and the oil pan is a S&P IROC/TA. I cannot seem to get it to clear the crossmember. I can get the motor mount to line up but when i try to lower it into place the oilpan hits the crossmember. It looks like the motor needs to go back more but the motor mounts wont let it. I am out of ideas, anyone have any suggestions?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Cheveells1.. I feel ya..

Remove the Coil pack, valve cover, intake and oil sensor.

Try unbolting and taking out the motor mounts (can leave the plates on), then drop the engine into place and then re-install the motor mounts.. could be a tight fit.. I did that once in my trial fittings.

You can also remove the trans and drop it it. and then install the trans after the engine is in place. (Could run into problem trying to bolt the bell housing or trans to bellhousing back in, let alone get the trans backup and into place).

3rd option.. rasie the body off the frame a few inches.

I banged up my firewall and A/C box (had to repair after) with the engine a few times trying to drop my engine/trans in.. kicking, Hitting and pushing.. but it dropped in..

Also, once it was in, I had a hard time taking it back out pass the oil/xmember.. and just ended up removing the Trans/bellhousing and then was able to take the engine out, as it was easier to clear then.

Good luck..it does fit. but tightly pass the x-member.

I see your in Sac.. I will be up that way for a family lunch on the 23rd.. maybe we can hook up and take a look at your probject.

Chevells1

Passenger side oil pan


Driverside

bczee

iTrader: (12)

got one from the lower side of the pan / x-member..

Chevells1

Thanks for the feedback bczee....I was beginning to think that it wasnt goin to fit. I dont have a pic of the underside of the oil/xmember but ill take one later this evening. Did you cut your tunnel or did you get it o fit with out? I am trying to decide what i am goin to try to do tonite after it cools off. My problem is that i have plenty of room between the firewall and the back of the motor its the motor mounts that are restricting the oil/xmember from clearing each other. When you come to sac you should definately come by and check out my project. I need all the help i can get.....lol

john 67

i am currently in the same boat as you . i have a 67 i am puttind an ls2 into with corvette accessories.im using a 4l80e trans.you might want to try using different frame mounts that allow you a little more flexability to move your engine fwd or back.i see you have a new compressor.get that in and all other accessories in before drilling any holes. i am currently working out my compressor clearance issues now. next is the exhaust. john

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah.. I had to cut my Trans tunnel.. with a T56 and 4L80E it is needed.

I had tried may combo of mounts.. I built my plates with both bolt patterns (S&P and BRP).. but liked the BRP and was able to use the OEM A/C and accessories ok.

I tried both the Energy Suspension engine mounts with different combo of spacers that they use to handle the TQ. I used both Short and Wide mounts and also tried the Tall and Norrow mounts.. I ended up using the Tall and Narrow mounts, moved the Frame mount and redrilled new holes. I also narrow my Frame mounts by about 1/2" and was able to jack the engine to be centered between the power steering box and the firewall/AC box.. just slipped washer in to jack it back and forward as needed.

Warning, if using the tall and narrow mount, it does raise the engine up 5/8" more and that cuase the trans/tunnel contact.. which is fixed by cutting the tunnel as needed.

I am using a CTS-V pan that game me much needed clearance around the oil pan and x-member. I also notched my frame for the AC compressor.