NVR KNO

just got the car dynoed today with the nitrous kit. tell me what you guys think. here are my cars mods....
99 SS M6
42lb injectors
lid
longtubes
dual cutouts
stock catback
12bolt
3.73 gears
NOS dry kit

here are my numbers.
337/348 cutouts closed N/A
344/356 cutouts open N/A
408/444 cutouts closed 100 shot
434/476 cutouts open 100 shot
435/490 cutouts open 150 shot

it just finished raining and the temp was 94 in the shop. the humidity was over 85% too. my AFR was reading under 12 to 1. she has been running rich as **** lately and i know i need new O2s too. all runs were with stock spark plugs also. bottle pressure was right at 900psi. does this seem right? i know NOS rates to the flywheel but i think i should have made alil more power, especially torque. let me know what you guys think.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

wot shouldent be affected by o2's...the 150 shot didnt gain much? did it go way rich? if not then somethings wrong, i definately wouldent be using it for that little gain

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

swap out thoes plugs with tr-6

NVR KNO

the 150shot didnt gain much from the 100shot. i cant read my AFR when the cutouts are open, i can only read it when the cutouts are closed.

NVR KNO

can spark plugs make that big of a difference?

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

they are 1 heat range colder and with the 150 shot it could melt the plugs and blow the motor swap out to tr-6s asap

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

What jets? NOS dry is rated at the crank.

NVR KNO

i dont remember the jets he said. what sizes do they have?

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Just for referrence, I made 110rwhp and over 200rwtq from missplaced nozzles with .040 jets. Also a little lean. But I have a cam. I think your torque will not gain soo much due to the stock cam. I think the cam allows more mix in, increasing cylinder pressures even further, creating more torque.

NVR KNO

im not expecting a huge gain from this kit. i know its rated at the flywheel too. my concern is i gain a good amount from the 100shot. when i jetted it for the 150shot, i gained 1hp and 14tq. like i said earlier, AFR was under 12 to 1 so i was no where near lean. its a dual nozzle setup so nozzles were placed on either side of the lid. if i can remember he said .36 jets for the 150 shot.... does that sound right?

P.S. i also know i have a 12bolt and 3.73 gears so that will eat up some.... they ate up 20hp just on motor only.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I thought the 0.040s were 150 and learned they are more like 135. The 36s are more like 120. What pressure were all runs on? You may have had less pressure on the "150" pull from the "100" pull. Pressure makes a big difference. I made 90rwhp from a 85 crank hit at 1200psi.

NVR KNO

pressure was right at 900psi. what size jet do i need to make it a true 150 shot? i looked in the Master Jet thread, but didnt see it.

p.s. he said the .26s were for the 100 shot.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Nope. 28s are for 85. I have a request into Robert56 in sizing jets for dry kits. He has lots of experience and already has lots of data. My guess is for a true 150rwhp hit you would need like a .050 jet or more. Also, I would run 950psi.

NVR KNO

do you know what could have gone wrong in my practically no gain from the "so called" 100shot to 150shot?

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

The heat range wont necessarily make the plugs melt or not. Heat range is how hot the tip of the plug runs at. It doesnt effect how hot the charge burns. Hotter plugs are better for burning off deposits, but the down side is they run hotter (the plug tip) which can promote detonation.
Plugs being burned out in nitrous motors is usually due to a severely lean condition that probably wouldnt be helped even with a colder plug.
All that being said, back to the OP questions. Nitrous is pressure dependent. Drops in pressure means drops in power. Too rich? Add more N2O. Increase the pressure, or increase the jet size. Are you logging while you're sprayin on the dyno? Is it pulling timing? That would cost you a few HP, not a bunch but some.
Did you adjust the ifr in the tune? If not that would be a good reason for it to run rich. I'd get a bung in the header so you can see the a/f with the dump open. Or use a longer tube on the WB on the dyno, to get up in there farther.
Regardless, this is all stuff they should know over there.....

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Do you know what timing was set at? Could have seen some KR. That will hurt power.

If you are rich, increasing pressure or jet sizes will not help in a dry kit. The MAF is reading the amount of N2O and adding fuel. Actually, you want to be rich. The bigger the shot, the more rich you want to be really to be safe. Your 12.0:1 is perfect for 100-125rwhp. After that, I would get closer to 11.5:1. You really need a TR6 or colder for ANY N2O. This will also cause KR and other bad stuff to happen. Nozzle placement is also a factor.

NVR KNO

timing is stock.... i think. it was tuned so long ago i can t remember. edcmat-l1 tuned it for me the first time, maybe he can remember. i have the TR6 plugs ordered and will be put in before the next nitrous pull.

and ed, yes the ifr was changed to handle the 42lb injectors before it went on the dyno. also remember when you tuned it for me, we couldnt use the wideband because of the dual cutouts. you had to tune it thru the stock catback with the cutouts closed.... so no i couldnt log and afr during the runs.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

HUH???? you sprayin ahead of your MAF? Whenever you add or subtract nitrous, whether its with a jet change or increasing/decreasing pressure, it will lean or richen the mix.
I do agree with the colder plug for N2O, but the way it was referenced earlier just didnt make sense. Alot of people dont understand spark plug heat range.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Thats why I said put a bung in it or us a longer pick up tube. Get it up further into the exhaust.

NVR KNO

i am spraying before my MAF, i have the nozzles on both sides of the air lid pointing towards the maf.