SleeperSS

iTrader: (8)

Looks like there are a lot of companies offering motor mounts to fit an LS1 into a 67 camaro. I've read quite a few people stating the BRP and S&P required them to cut their tunnels to make the engine and trans fit. My question is whats the best Ls1 mouting hardware out that is basically plug and play and doesnt require any cutting. Anyone know if the hooker requires any cutting to work? Thanks for your responses

shanekennedy

iTrader: (1)

there's no optimal position. just depends on what you want to do. you can mount higher, lower, more forward, & more rearward. which of those you choose depends on your other plans. do you want to run a/c in factory location & do you mind notching subframe. will you run headers. will you run rack & pinion steering. what oil pan will you use.

i can't tell you the correct mounts if you have all these answers. i researched the topic when i bought my mounts, but no longer remember the differences. i have 68 camaro, 5.3L engine, no a/c, stainless works headers, unisteer r&p, & autokraft oilpan & engine mounts.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

ATS or S&P. ATS puts the engine a little lower than S&P which can create some header clearance problems. There are a ton of clones of the S&P plates--CarShop, Transdapt, etc, and Autokraft makes clones of the ATS plates. BRP puts the engine way too far forward IMO, and Hooker puts it way too far back.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

We are using the S&P aluminum plates, and while they are really nicely made, the thickness of the plate makes getting the motor mounts down a bit difficult. I would look into the combinations that are showing up of the mounts and steel plates. The CPP add in super chevy shows a pretty nice set for aobut $55, and another guy found a similiar setup at Jegs.

camaromotorsports

iTrader: (105)

we bought the steel plates off ebay for 40.00, worked great

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Made my own plates out of 1/4" steel.. cost $10.00 and some tme !

Nemesis68

iTrader: (2)

Made my own adapter mounts with dimensions taken from the template in LS1 Swap sticky out of 5/16" SS. Had trouble with hole alignment with the energy suspension engine mount and sub-frame mount. Flipped the mounts around and cut the lip on the ES engine mount similar to what Rodder did on his photo journal (thanks by the way!), and the holes lined up with no problem. Looks great and have a lot of engine-firewall clearance (about 4-1/2"). Only bad part is that I'm running SW Long tubes and it looks like I'm going to have to put a dimple on one of the tubes to clear the power-steering gearbox. Almost plug and play, but you do have to cut the lip on the ES engine mount.

SleeperSS

iTrader: (8)

Any updates with the fitting with the transadapt motor mounts from Summit or Jegs?

skeeters65

iTrader: (1)

Were those the Car Shop ones??
If so what headers and steering box are you using??

Thanks

I am going to order the Car Shop Adaptors..
What motor mounts should I use?? Looking for Polyurathane ones..
Got a part number??

Thanks

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

i used the hooker plates. They put the motor way too close to the firewall IMO. I think if I do another one im just going to make my own. Way cheaper and you can put the motor where ever you feel most comfortable with it.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

When it really comes down to engine location by Adapter plates, If you move the frame mounts, the Adapter plates style (BRP, S&P, ATS or Hooker) make no difference.

No matter what plates you use, if you bolt them up, attached the engine mount and frame mounts to the engine, sit the engine in place with all attached, move the engine around to where you want. Then mark and secure the frame mounts.. The engine will be where you want.

What seem to come into play more are that both the steering and trans tunnel cutting can cause differences due to the variation and combonation of the engine Height due to the plates thickness, Engine mounts (T/N vs S/W) and frame mount (Different SBC or BBC).

Sitting the Engine higher may cause Trans tunnel cutting, but may add clearence for the Steering Pulley and cross link and tie rod ends. Sitting it lower may give the clearance for the Trans Tunnel, but your Steering parts may hit the Oil pan. (give or take here)

I as far as saying BRP moves the engine to far forward, I would have to question that ???
BRP plate are design or intented to use a un-modified F-Body Oil Pan... but the S&P needs to notch the Oil Pan.. cause it hit the x-member.. that tells me that the engine is more forward when using the S&P vs the BRP (as per their normally intended mounting instructions) which moves the engine rearward to allow the stock oil pan. !?

I used BRP style plates, and my engine is very close to the fire wall.. and eveyone is suppised as to how much room I have between the Radiator and Engine. Cause the engine is sitting a bit back.

just my 2 cents and opions on my experience and working with the swap of mine and others.

QSPres

iTrader: (15)

I can tell you this much... The ATS mounts were designed to put a LS1 in a early Camaro. So they will fit nicely in that application, HOWEVER, because ATS designed their own drive system, their plate/motor mount system WILL NOT WORK with the stock accessory drives (at least the AC part) if they're unmodified.

I called Tyler and he confirmed that if it didn't fit in the stock chassis when they mocked it up, they didn't use it. So they scrapped the factory AC and made their system anyway.


I am pleased with the quality of the ATS stuff, but they really should use a disclaimer telling folks what will and won't work. Of course, if they did that, they'd sell way less mounts...

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I agree that some of these plate should give notice of what will work or come into contact.

In General, any of the plates that move the Motor mounts more forward than the forward engine mount boss (ie S&P, ATS, etc with the longer side up) will require after market A/C and/or relocated A/C compressor, as they will come into contact with the plate. I have tried both S&P and BRP. (Not sure about the S&P upside down.)

The BRP style plates will allow the use of the Factory A/C compressor (notching of the frame x-member maybe required) as they leave enough room between the plate/mount and the A/C compressor.

DCx

iTrader: (12)

see if this helps!

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33454

Teetoe_Jones

Regarding A/C stuff and plates-

No plate on the market will allow a bolt in of the A/C system. Not S&P, not BRP, not ATS. The BRP will push the engine far forward and will clear the A/C, but you have to hack up & weld the front part of the frame to install their rack and pinion setup, and then relocate the swaybar under the frame so it can become a debris catcher.

Bottom line is we designed our stuff so that no modification would be required to the car. We made everything else fit by re-designing it.

Tyler

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I wanted to revise/add to the comment about Hooker motor mount plates placing the engine too close to the firewall. Perhaps Hooker has made a revision to their design (I bought my plates in 2007)....I've just installed an LS1 into a 67 Camaro, and the engine has plenty of room to the firewall. Hooker says that the engine will be positioned the same as a stock (327/350) was. Positioning is perfect, and with the Energy Suspension mounts, there is no cutting of my oil pan.
I did have to shave a bit off the bottom alternater bolt, plus a couple of alternator fins, but other than that it is a perfect fit.
The heater box was converted to a BB type, allowing the hoses much more room. The hose exit from the SB heater location does interfere with with the passenger head.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Wow..a 2 1/2 year old thread.. bad from the dead.. LOL..

68Problemchild

iTrader: (1)

Got a number on the energy suspension engine mounts?

I have the +- 1" adjustable plates, hooker headers, Retro LSX oil pan with L92 into a 68 camaro which originally had a SBC motor. Regular mounts almost fit but only can do one side at a time.

Need some engine mounts that line up. Apparently someone used ATS mounts but had to cut them?

Another solution was someone used "tall frame mounts", or "hats" which would solve the problem but no idea where to find "tall" 68 frame mounts.

Thanks!!

kstafford

All these posts are confusing me. I have a 67 camaro that will recive a 5.3 from a pickup it is a stock small block car. I have a big brake booster and a sb heater core what plates should i use...

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Wow. I wish I had read this before. I used autokraft pan and plates too, and my dynatechs seem to hang down very low.