t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, i'll try to keep this as simple as possible:

1.) My car worked perfectly until I hit the gas WOT one day and I heard a popping noise that sounded like the car was bouncing the rev limiter (although it wasnt). The car then decided it wouldnt run worth a **** and it was barely even drivable. I had to keep on the gas by putting the car in neutral when I stopped at stopsigns. I figured out that I was popping my MAF fuse, I thought because my o2 sensor was stripped and bumping up against the metal part under my car.

2.) I wrapped up the o2 sensor with some electrical tape and it fixed the fuse blowing problem (like a damned fool, I blew about 10 fuses before I ever fixed it). However, the car still was missing when I mashed on the gas WOT from a slow speed.

3.) I decided to get a brand new o2 sensor and this seemed to temporarily fix the problem

4.) Then I was driving home (1 day later) and the car decided that it wasnt going to move when I was stopped at a light and trying to accelerate again. It was almost as if the car was flooding and I was pulling a 10,000 pound trailor. Then all of a sudden the RPMS would go way up and the car would go flying forward with lots of power.

5.) I got pissed off and replaced the throttle body possitioning sensor with one from advanced auto. I took it for a drive, problem solved immediately (or so I thought) but I still felt some missing up top

6.) I decided to change my spark plugs and wires since it had been a while. When changing my plug wires, i noticed that one of my plugs was almost ripped in half and had previously been taped back together with electrical tape. I dont know what ghetto *** did this but it seriously fell apart in my hand. I replaced them with race-plug wires from advanced auto (and changed the spark plugs).

7.) I took the car out for a drive, and it ran great, seemed to be 100% fixed and I was satisfied. However, on the way to the track today (to test it out for the first time, only 2 days later) the damned car started to iddle funny in the parking lot. It was almost cutting off and the steering wheel would get tight because it was idling at next to nothing. It fixed itself right away so i figured it was ok. I noticed a quick bog simmilar to what it did at the light before, but it was only for half a second and then it went away.

8.) I went ahead and ran the car anyways (1/8th mile) and it felt like it had an ungodly amount of power but it was destroying the tires (nittos). Even when I let off the gas and went 40mph and hit it again, it would go sideways. I let off the gas 3 times and still trapped 85 in the 1/8th.

9.) People were having traction problems and so they sprayed that rubber stuff all over the track. I started running 7.9's consistantly. Problem is, I was running 7.70's consistantly before doing the cam swap, and the weather was really good tonight. I used to have a ST3500 stall and maybe that is why I was running better times. I figured my SS3600 would be the same.

10.) When leaving the track it started bogging again and acting like it was going to cut off... i dont know wtf is wrong with my car, someone please help. I have spent a lot of money on this damned thing and I want it to run good times and drive well too.

ANY IDEAS? Anyone that responds to this is awesome - sorry it was such a long *** post.

-Brent

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Pull the valve covers and check your pushrods and springs. See if anything is amiss in there. If not, check the obvious (make sure no wiring is pinched, clean your MAF with some electric cleaner, etc.).

PREDATOR-Z

1-Put is on a OBDII and read for codes stored.
2-Live scan the thing instead of going fishing.

SloLt1Z

Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak after the MAF or the MAF itself

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

what is a vacuum leak and how do I check for that and fix it?

I have a predator and the car isnt throwing any codes at all. When I do the real time scan, those numbers dont mean anything to me.

Why in the world would it be my springs and pushrods? My engine isnt knocking or doing anything strange like that. Maybe i just dont know what i'm talking about at all. It is a pain in the *** to get those valve covers off so I want to make sure thats a good idea first.

I heard something about checking the voltage on the Throttlebody possitioning sensor. What is that and how do I do it? The car diddnt start bogging until we drilled the throttlebody hole slightly now that I think about it. I dont see why that would cause that kind of problem. It should fix it if anything.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Drilling the TB probably isnt the problem. Might try either replacing the MAF with a known good on to see if that makes the car happy.

Billy177

Not trying to be offensive here but, you don't know what a vaccum leak is and you are just throwing parts at it. It is gonna be cheaper to just have a shop diagnose the problem.

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

by vacuum leak to you mean the throttlebody has a gap between it and the intake? I can see how that would cause a vacuum like leak, but i dont know if that is what you guys are referring to.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Could be that the intake isnt sealing against the heads. Vacuum fittings might have come off. The MAP sensor might not be sealing. Could have a crack in the intake. brake booster or booster hose... Many many ways...

LS1rulz

iTrader: (1)

Um, if it's the MAF, you could just unplug the MAF. If it runs fine, it was the MAF.
I agree that you should just scan it. It's faster than posting and waiting on answers from people who are hundreds of miles away bro. And if you're close to one of us, holler. I'm sure somebody will help ya. I know I would.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna suggest that, but he metioned having a predator, which leads me to believe the VE table may not be in perfect tune for his mods, so running SD might not be the answer.

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

the car has been running perfectly for several months since doing the cam swap. The predator isnt showing any codes - it threw a code about the throttlebody possitioning sensor before, but since I have replaced the TPS it isnt doing it anymore. It was also throwing an o2 code, but not since I have fixed that. I also purchased a new MAF before I figured out that it was the o2 sensor, that obviously diddnt fix the problem either.

The car cut off again today on its own, then it runs perfectly for a while before acting up again. it goes and comes in spurts, very confusing.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

My cavalier had the same problem. It would idle funny at random times and cut off out of nowhere, like fuel was getting cut for some reason. It turned out to need a new ecu. There were absolutely no codes to be found and all values were within their bounds. There was nothing to trace. So, we took a leap and got a new ecu. It's been good to go ever since. Maybe this is the case with you, maybe not. I would hope it's something easier, but just thought I'd share.

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

anyone else have this problem?

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

nothing? what will a shop be able to do without the car throwing codes?

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Hmm this is a weird problem, did you port and polish your own TB?? Maybe the port was to far and started to interfere with the TB sensor. Just throwing out a suggestion..

Make sure that all plug wires are plugged in all the way on the coil pack and onto the sprak plug..

Make sure your O2 sensor is plugged in still and the lil piece is clipped on.

Maybe it could be a clogged up fuel filter?? Have you ever changed out the stock one? Bc seeing as the spark plug had electrical tape on it, it sounds like the previous owner did not take care of the car..

Maybe you got some bad gas, siphon a bucket out and see if their is any water floating at the top of it, or anything for that matter.. I know gas is starting to suck these days and gas companies will do whatever they can to make an extra buck.

THis is just a few suggestions, also maybe a clogged injector..

Hope this helps.

021less

iTrader: (28)

check all your ground wires, including the ones on the back of the head. After doing my head and cam swap mine did exactly what you are talking about, first it was my o2 wires getting melted by my headers, got that fixed. Then the car just died going down the road like it just run out of fuel, checked ground wires and there it was, the bolt on the back of the head was loose enough to turn with my finger. So you might want to check all your grounds, sounds kinda like the same problem i had.

t1blackout

iTrader: (6)

i am assuming that my fuel filter has never been replaced and i'm at 127k miles now... How do I go about doing that?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Youll need a couple of open end wrenches and some screwdrivers to disconnect the quick release fitting. Pretty easy is i recall.

Zealot

Maybe youve just got some water in your gas? Try a can of Heet, its cheap as **** and wont hurt anything.