ae13291

iTrader: (8)

hi guys i have a 99 camaro z28 M6 and when im in third gear or any other gear in hi rpm i feel my clutch pedal like going down to the floor and then i have to pick it up with my foot and then when im driven normal the clutch is ok and also i dont know why but at WOT from 1st to second it would grind very little into 2nd and it would only do this sometimes not all the time, i think it may be that there is air in the clutch master cylinder but im not sure, and i have one more question i was just wondering do the 99 camaro z28 have a zexal locker or a limited slip thank you guys

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Good info here & in the stickies in the top of this section

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

wow thanks alot man thats some great info imma gonna go bleed my system today!! thanks

Ranger

Once you bleed it to clean, the protocol entails keeping it that way. If you do that you'll continue to enjoy a normal pedal.

Those who fail at this do so because
(1) they never really get the fluid clean again. And or
(2) they mistakenly think this is a one shot deal.

In fact the heat at the slave is constantly degrading the fluid. The owners has to stay ahead of the break-down. That's where the protocol comes in.

Ranger

gun5l1ng3r

I too have problems shifting(mushy pedal, worse when car is ho), but I just replaced my master and the slave is only 15k mi old.

If the position of the slave is the problem, how come newer cars didn't really have the problem, and will future cars have this flaw (2009 Camaro)?

I don't know if it is because the fluid in the slave gets hot as the car gets hot and causes hydraulic problems, or if it is possibly the t56 going bad. I have 126k miles. Is there anyway to differentiate between the two problems?

I don't think clean fluid is the cause. After I bleed it, it will feel GREAT or very good for about 20 miles and then it will start to slowly get worse. Each shift is a ? of whether it will go into gear or not.

My new master definitly feels beter than my old one, I actually have an 'over-center' spot now, but I still have shifting problems, especially high RPM, which leads me to believe the T56 is almost dead.

EDIT: One more thing, I also hear a 'clink' sound from under the car (maybe bellhousing area) when I let off the gas or decelerate. Could I have a loose flywheel causing this. I put Red loctite on the PP bolts, so they are most likely still tight. I used a screwdriver to hold the FW while torquing, which is probably my mistake.

Ranger

Yes, get the fluid pristinely clean. If that returns the pedal to normal, the fluid was the issue. The overwhelming majority of pedal issues are easily cured via the fluid. Read post #2 and 4.

I can clean up the worst fluid in an hour for $10 in materials. Lot easier than the bitter, costly alternatives, including breaking the tranny.

Ranger

gun5l1ng3r

I have bled to death my system and it works great down the street, then by 15 mi down the road it seems to be back to mushy.

I also think that the drill mod can be a problem sometimes(i don't have it on my new master). Doesn't the drill mod add volume to the system and thus makes less slave movement with the stock m/c?

Would and aftermarket slave possibly the solution to keep the fluid cooler?

And can we expect to see more problems down the road with the slave placed in the bellhousing?

What are the indications of a loose flywheel or PP? I had a loose PP before and that just moved the engagement point towards the floor A LOT! Will a lo0se FW bolt cause clutch engagement issues?

Ranger

When your pedal has the woes what color is the fluid in your reservoir and what fluid are you using?

Ranger

gun5l1ng3r

The prestone synthetic and it is clear in the resevoir and clear at the bleed valve on the slave. Is it possible to leave the bleed valve loose and lose pressure? I am sure I tightened that down.

My pedal feels more solid when I tickle it (push down 1/4" rapidly) kinda like pumping brakes for pressure.

Also, to rule out the clutch, how would I go about measuring how much clearance there is between the slave and the fingers of the diaphram to make sure that everything has the right stack height?

Ranger

When you tickle the pedal you are causing fluid to circulate at the slave, the point of max heat. That indicates to me that it may be a fluid issue. Is there any murkiness in the fluid at all or is it literally the same color as comes out of the can?

Possible by have some air in the system but certainly not an ongoing air-leak. If there were a leak, the pedal would wind up staying on the floor limp.

Ranger

gun5l1ng3r

Thanks for all the help Ranger, I think I might try gravity bleeding it for an hour or so to make sure all the fluid is good and new.

There might have been some merkiness to the fluid, but not dark(I have been there before). As you know, the bleed valve is WAY up in there and it is dark up there. The only place to get a good look at is when it drips onto the floor from the bellhousing, lol.

Ranger

I bleed mine via the reservoir. 500 passes with a normal pedal. Works and there's no chance of getting air in the system. Procedure is at the link in post #2. Make sure you are using fluid from a fresh can with seal in tact.

Ranger

gun5l1ng3r

I wish my car would work correctly for 500 street shifts. I guess I am trying to figure out where my problem is...
Now that I think about it, I used a can that had been opened and sitting on the shelf for a few months.

When I bench bled my master, it was ROCK hard...