BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

OK, I did some logging to help dial in my tune and I have noticed that from damn near every stop that I start from I get TONS of KR. I tried pulling timing in that area of the table but it did not seam to help things much. I get a hesitation or stutter at this same place too. I am assuming it is the KR. Can someone help me eliminate this? I can send log files or even post a screen shot of it. This is getting real annoying. There has to be a fix for this. Maybe it is drive train knock??? Not sure. Tell me what to do.

TIA

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Probably going to be false knock, but what can you hear? If you're getting that much KR you should be able to hear something, whether its false or not. False knock just means its not detonation setting off the KR, it could easily be an exhaust rattle.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I don't hear anything but the motor stutter. I do not get KR anywhere else. So I am guessing it is false KR but how do I get rid of it?

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Oh, when I engage the clutch, it feels like it hits kinda hard. That is probably why it sets of the sensor. But where do I edit that out?

PICNIC_GEORGE

iTrader: (3)

Does you car have a blower or possibly the header hitting the floorboard causing "false" knock? If that can't be fixed and you're sure the knock is false I would raise the threshold(not sure if that's the correct terminology I'm no where near my laptop) for KR. I know on a ProChrarged car that we have the KR had to be raised(MAF) so it wouldn't pull timing at idle/tip in.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

No, just cam only with bolt-ons. Nothing is hitting. No KR anywhere else but then. What table and where do I make changes? I do not want to change things wrong and then the PCM does not record real KR.

PICNIC_GEORGE

iTrader: (3)

I may not be any help to you. I use EFIlive. But it may be the same, I know that we custom tune diablo sport stuff here and it is very similar. But it wouldn't matter, I'm not near my laptop right now. I'm sure someone will chime in with the correct way to do it.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Thanks anyhow. I hope so. Been doing it for a while now and it is annoying when you are at a light and the thing falls on it's face as you pull away. Very .

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Being cam'd, you should pull timing at low rpm. That's half the reason these cars buck after cam installs....that and the IAC. Here's a post I made in another thread with one of my most recent timing tables.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....1&postcount=10

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I already pulled some timing out of the bottom. I will take out some more and see how that does. Thanks. After I pulled some out, the bucking seamed to be reduced. So maybe this will help more. Do you think this is what is giving me KR? Makes sense to a point. I mean the thing pulls as much as 15* sometimes.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Should I do the throttle cracker changes like you said in that post too?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

IMO, yes. The knock sensors are picking up something. I rarely believe it's false until all else is ruled out. It's hard to see where you're at on the timing table since you don't have grams/cylinder in that log. But, my guess is you're in the .36~.48 grams/cyl range. If that's correct, the 32~33* of timing the stock '00 table (25~30* in '01+ years) is too much. Try 23~26* in that range (again, look at my tables in the other thread and see if they help).

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

If you have surging, you can try and see if that helps some.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Thanks a TON for your input and others. I will try these. I made changes in my file. I will be out and about tonight and will let you know how it goes. I have a dyno tune, but seams like my tuner did mostly 3k and up and mostly WOT tuning. Need to work out the low end and driving stuff on my own. It is fun when you make a change in the file and you notice it. I think the stuff I did yesterday helped. I hope it gets better.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

I can get up to the max 15* as well in this same scenario, all in the same MAP RPM range. Putting in poly motor and tranny mounts to see if this helps.
Race gas is the next step, as I have pulled timing in the range and pumped fuel at it with no improvement.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

@ Location: Minne-sOta, eh?

You guys sound more Canadian then we do.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I will be up with all those hOsers in Toronto next week. At least it is Spring. I went in Feb to Edmonton this year and froze my off.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, it can get pretty bad here, especially in "da norte" around Brainerd.
when I go back home to the Dakotas, and sit around the family table, the "oh ya"'s get pretty thick.
Ya sure youbetcha donchaknow

PICNIC_GEORGE

iTrader: (3)

At least you guys know what the weather is gonna be. COLD, rain and snow..

Here in the desert you better have shorts and a jacket with you at all times. In the last 3 days it's been in the mid 90s(warm), in the low 30s & snowing and today was high 70s(PERFECT).

Good luck with your knock issue....

SSpdDmon
Assuming the knock is false would I be correct in assuming {B6214} Adaptive spark min rpm is what you would want to change? Like raise it from 300rpms to lets say 1500????

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Adaptive spark refers to the octane scaler that swings between the low and high octane spark tables. If the knock is false, changing this will still pull timing when the knock sensors pick up the signal. It just won't move you closer to the low octane table. To kill the false knock, you need to edit the knock sensor sensitivity settings.