JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Car has 80k miles and a cutout for mods. Stock clutch.

I got a Po171 check engine code (bank 1 sensor 1) O2 being too lean. But light went off later that day. Gradually over last few weeks, car feels like its way down on power. If you stomp on it, it'll slowly accelerate and then kick in to full WOT seconds later as if its got turbo lag. I was thinking of replacing o2 but from what I understand the O2 throw codes often and are still good.

New plugs/wires couple months ago. Checked plugs last night and were good. Not overheating. This is when car is cold AND hot. Fuel pressure is ~42 idle and ~52 WOT. Where does it need to be?

Now, it feels like the clutch is slipping up also because the idle drops a little when at a stop light and hunts for a second sometimes. Also under quick shifting it continues to spin up the motor even after clutch in, as if not fully disengaging. Its very notchy and rough going into 2nd sometimes and tough to get in reverse.

So is the clutch not gripping until rpms get to 3k or is car down on power?

Seperate question as well:
Car will make 450-500rwhp once under boost. LS7, Ram HD, or Spec 2+?

SchultzLT1

iTrader: (5)

the only question i can really opinion on is the last one... because i myself just started driving manual

yeah you should make 450-500 hp when ur under boost.... of course it depends on how much boost your running but its very possible

renxwar

I hear the LS7s really only take the 400's well. I'd look into a Text setup.

98TADRIVER

iTrader: (36)

i have a Ram powergrip HD. LS7 clutch might be a good upgrade from stock, however it is still a stock clutch, dont go with that if youre going to see alot of racing/track time. F*ck spec, i went thru 4 of their clutches, alllll defective before 5k miles. the center springs in the clutch disk kept falling out. If you have the money, get a textralia. if not the Ram powergrip hd should hold up. Im running low 12s @ 114 mph on it, on drag radials, and see alot of street racing time as well. i will also be spraying a 125 wet shot on it this year too. Its been taking some abuse. the only time i had it slip on me was when my slave cylinder blew out and coated it in brake fluid. (which is the demise of any clutch once it gets oil or brake fluid on it...)

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Ive heard nothing but good from the RAM setup. Textralia is too pricey for me. LS7 sounds like it wont hold for 500rwhp+

Yea i know that. The question was which clutch should I get.

Any insight to what this lag problem might be? I think im going to try and swap the O2 out.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

ummm...base fuel pressure is 58 psi for an ls setup.youre short on fuel,id start there.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

im going by the junky in-car guage, but ill go back out and see what its at with a closer look. Would shortage of fuel occur in low rpms and not at 3k+ when going WOT when power finally starts to kick in?

Bout to install new fuel filter. Fuel pressure reg going bad or my pump getting old?

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

checked and fuel is at 58 idle. Im getting some maf/electronic cleaner. What can I use to spray for checking vac leaks

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

UPDATE:

It threw another code today - pO174 bank 2 sensor 1
Nevermind on the fuel pressure check. The guage was bad so I would still need to check it.

I picked up some electronic cleaner and cleaned the maf, bellows, and airbox. I also replaced the air filter and took the car back out. I noticed that oil pressure flickers slightly. I stopped at a light after punching it slightly on a straight away and the idle dropped to 600rpms (oil pressure dropped to around 40). Idle stabilized shortly after.

Ill check for vacuum leak next. It still feels considerably down on power. Power kicks in way too late. What else could this be? Neither Diagnostic guide at autozone nor online database mentioned O2s being an issue so I still haven't touched them. I don't think that is the issue.

edit: When the A/C is running the car idles rather high, around 1200-1300 and wont drop down below 1000. If I start car and leave A/C off it stays around 800 like normal.

Ranger

P0171 and P0174 are very common code on LS1/6 motors with a modified air-path. If the codes show (H) history and not (C) current, then it's usually a transitory condition in off-throttle or coasting situation, like coming down a hill toward a red light off-throttle at low rpm.

I would suggest checking all the air-path connections for tightness. A small leak can put some grief on th MAF sensor.

Regarding the clutch, avoid the LS7 clutch. Don't like mine at 450 rwhp. Doesn't slip but glazes easily. Take a look at the Cartek Level-7. Lot of high-HP racers are happy with that one.

Ranger

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Its the stock air box and bellows. Ive tightened and retightened but no go. Ill try running the car and spraying brake cleaner around to see if there is a leak somewhere running to the intake or if a vacuum leak is somewhere.

Ranger

^^^ If the air-path connections are all tight and those particular codes are alway (H) history, I wouldn't be concerned at all if the codes get set interrmittently during off-throttle circumstances.

Ranger

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

To me it sounds like you have an engine issue concerning your power.

From what you described, the clutch seems fine. The clutch would probably slip during high load situations, not start engaging at 3k rpms.

You may have some issues with the clutch fully disengaging, which I would suggest taking a look at the clutch master cylinder fluid, and possibly flushing it if its dirty.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Im not concerned about codes...
im concerned about the huge loss in power down low. lol

It feels like a 4 cylinder with a huge turbo that doesnt spool up until 4k rpm. It shouldnt be down on power like this.

I think the clutch is partly responsible but it still grabs in certain situations and the clutch wouldn't explain the different sound from the exhaust or the slightly altered idle.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

figured it out.

I was getting a massive vac leak. The hose connecting PCV valve to the intake had a giant hole in it. I took a can of air (for computers) and sprayed around the engine and finally caught the leak. I grabbed the hose and immediately felt the hole (not to mention the change in idle). So, i went to autozone and bought a foot of tubing and clamped on a new piece.

Took it for some spirited driving and power is back. However, it still hunts a little for idle. When I come to a stop, it drops down to nearly 500rpms or less. Oil pressure guage still stutters too. Then after second or two the idle stabilizes solid at 800. Cleaned the maf and swapped in new air filter as well (before fixing vac leak). Any clues about the jumpy idle?

and should i reset PCM or battery now?

1slowls1

iTrader: (1)

Mine hunts for idle also, im being told and he is very certain that it is my maf sensor its going bad so i bought a new one from a sponsor here for $75 brand new but i sent it out to him to port it a bit and my throttle body so i cant tell you if that worked besides you are turboed im just heads/cam so it might even be a totally different problem all together

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

im stock right now. turbo was removed awhile back for rebuilding the charge piping and other things. I wonder if my MAF is going out too though

sapper5000

how do you check for leaks with a can of air? cause, I think im in the same boat

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

I just did a typical vac leak check.

Basically you take something like brake cleaner or a can of air (I use the stuff you use to clean computers with). Then spray around vacuum tubing and other places where vacuum leaks might be happening. Next listen for the car's idle to change. If it starts to chug or changes while your spraying that area, then you know there is a leak letting air in. You can also check visually for holes or worn places in tubing.