JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

My engine started making an odd noise yesterday while autocrossing after about maybe 20 runs. Oil pressure is ~40psi at idle, ~60psi at 3000RPM. Oil level was at top of hash marks before I raced, and mid-hash after we parked it with a large filter. Sometimes the block isn't making any noise, but sometimes when I start it it'll rattle badly. The throttle cable slipped off the bracket on one run, and I have a few codes regarding the MAF (I'm running OLSD though), 1-4 solenoid, reverse solenoid, and the front O2's.The high-temp exhaust putty I had used to seal my broken EGR tube the last two years also blew out.

So just in case, I'm building a list of prices I may need to repair the bottom end. Hell, I'd feel better about it anyway. The motor will remain stock displacement and naturally aspirated, bouncing off the 7200RPM limiter regularly on race days. Eventually moving to more road-race duty (and less sustained 7200RPM operation). This is what's in the bottom end now:

- Clean up hone (per previous block owner)
- Balanced stock crank using longer crank bolt due to damage by previous owner
- Eagle rods
- ARP bolts (not sure which model)
- Wiseco pistons (presumably -2cc, not sure how I can tell even if they are removed)
- SLP ported oil pump
- LS6 valley cover

I have the stock crank out of my original block, and if it can be safely re-used, I'm considering swapping it and getting everything re-balanced so I don't need to mess with the long crank bolt.

Some questions on the bottom end:

- Should I plan to replace both main & rod bearings?
- Re-use current ARP rod bolts, or order new, or switch to Katech? Or is that only a concern with stock rods?
- Will I need to re-balance the rotating assembly? What parts need to be installed for proper balancing (clutch assy too?)
- Any key differences between Clevite vs. Federal Mogul main/rod/cam bearings?
- Would using ARP fasteners elsewhere (besides rod bolts) and/or the ARP main stud kit be a waste of money for my application? If not, 6pt or 12pt heads?
- A high pressure oil pump is still considered better than a high volume pump to reduce oil starvation, correct?
- Will a vacuum pump be a worthwhile investment?
- Should I consider new rings?

So on to the top end. I have these top end components in storage awaiting install, and I might as well kill two birds with one stone:

- TSP PRC 5.3L Stag 2.5 heads, 59cc, 2.02/1.57 valves, PRC Platinum dual springs (rated to .660)
- Cometic .040 gaskets
- ARP head bolts
- Comp Cams 227/235 .645/.650 110+2 LSK lobes
- Cadillac racing lifters
- Center-bolt valve covers, gaskets & coil mounting brackets
- NGK TR6 plugs (.045 gap)
- water pump gaskets
- crank bolt
- crank seal
- pushrods (do not have - waiting on preload check)
- injectors (have not ordered yet)
- timing chain/set (not ordering unless needed)

I want to degree the cam using the ICL method for peace of mind, so I'll need to buy a degree kit. Since the motor will be out, should I spring for the larger wheel or will the kit for 'degreeing on an installed engine' be suffice? Ironically I think it comes with a videotape guide...but my VCR died years ago.

Even though the kit comes with a soft spring for checking preload, I've inferred that I need to use the spring I will be running normally to check preload, and the only way to do that and get an accurate measurement is to use a solid lifter. So where do I get a single solid lifter?

Since the motor will be out, I'm also considering using ARP head studs instead of the new ARP head bolts I have. Regardless, I get migraines worrying about the Cometics leaking and having to throw more money at it. I think I'll use the Permatex copper spray.

The current heads/block did experience a blown gasket a year or so ago, and was repaired by Next Level Performance (sponsor). I know the heads needed repair, but I don't know if they did anything to the block. But I know they used GM gaskets.

Next... PtV clearance... there's two methods, right? One using clay and the other using a dial indicator? The clay you use to confirm the valve rests completely inside the valve relief, and the dial method to confirm your actual clearances (.08 intake & .1 exhaust minimum)? Can I get by with just using one of these methods?

Can I re-use the graphite gaskets just for checking ptv, then subtracting the difference in compressed gasket thickness? Or install the cometic dry, take measurements, then pull the cometics to add copper spray for the final install? Or...?

OK, that post became longer than intended but any guidance is appreciated

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

We will start dropping the motor tomorrow morning. TTT for answers.