Attn: SPEC. Pics of Stage 3
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Attn: SPEC. Pics of Stage 3
This is my stage 3 clutch that never felt right and now began slipping bad when giving it some gas from a cruise state. I let you tell me what could have been the problem. This clutch was run over 800 breakin miles. The pedal always felt high.
PS. New billet flywheel
PS. New billet flywheel
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#8
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My Spec 3 just went after about 8,000 miles...(started slipping from a cruise state like original poster, then started slipping in other gears any time I hit it - this whole process took all of about three days and clutch was originally broken in correctly). Haven't pulled it yet, but I have a feeling it looks like yours. My brother had the same problem. His lasted maybe a LITTLE longer than mine did, and he replaced with a 3+ (non-puck style), so I am curious to see how long that one lasts.
I will be calling Spec to find out what the hell is up with these clutches lasting NO time. Hopefully I can just resurface my flywheel if needed and upgrade to the non-puck style. I don't really understand the point of the puck-style disc. It seems it doesn't last long and I can't really see how it would be more beneficial in a racing sense since there is less friction for clamping power. Lighter weight is about the only advantage I can see, and it can't be THAT much lighter (maybe a pound or two?). Can anyone enlighten me?
I will be calling Spec to find out what the hell is up with these clutches lasting NO time. Hopefully I can just resurface my flywheel if needed and upgrade to the non-puck style. I don't really understand the point of the puck-style disc. It seems it doesn't last long and I can't really see how it would be more beneficial in a racing sense since there is less friction for clamping power. Lighter weight is about the only advantage I can see, and it can't be THAT much lighter (maybe a pound or two?). Can anyone enlighten me?
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You should not have to alter your driving habits for a damned clutch, and if you do the company making that clutch should make it VERY clear. Im thinking that when I pull my 8000 mile spec3 it is gonna look just like that one.
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again, you can't drive is like a disc clutch. the more you slip it, the more the edges of the pucks/pads eat away at it. that is why it bites down so hard.
and in the performance industry, you should know exactly what parts you are buying and researcht hem yourself. if a part looks different than what you're used to, you should find what the pros and cons are of that design.
and in the performance industry, you should know exactly what parts you are buying and researcht hem yourself. if a part looks different than what you're used to, you should find what the pros and cons are of that design.
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Originally Posted by Sprayed1998
You should not have to alter your driving habits for a damned clutch, and if you do the company making that clutch should make it VERY clear. Im thinking that when I pull my 8000 mile spec3 it is gonna look just like that one.
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I won't use the shim on any spec. I have installed a few that all work great. My stage 3 x-pad has 25k on it with over 500rwhp and many track passes.
I have help a bunch of people with issues. Many have had there clutch start slipping at about 2000miles. Had them remove the shim and all of them have been great.
I have help a bunch of people with issues. Many have had there clutch start slipping at about 2000miles. Had them remove the shim and all of them have been great.
#16
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
thats officially the dumbest thing ive ever heard in this section.....an aftermarket clutch made to handle how many hundreds of ft lb's of torque shouldnt alter how its driven and drive the same????give me a break.you need to go automatic
#18
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
like ive said this before.. **** - a - spec. i wouldnt even waste my money on that company after seeing the amount of problems people have with them on here..
#19
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Originally Posted by Sprayed1998
Hmm, so what should I do, go around droping my clutch like a ******* dumbass at every red light or stop sign. It's not like I slip it or ride it. I just use the clutch untill I get a clean smooth start, and if you tell me Im not supposed do do that you can go **** yourself. Also it's kinda ******* hard not to ride a clutch that releases at the VERY top end of the pedal. Look you may have had luck with a spec clutch but AS YOU CAN SEE there are ALOT of people with THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM here lately. Now you can be nieve and chalk it up to poor driving or open up your eyes and realize that something might be defective with these clutches. It's all Stage 3's, and they are all lasting about the same miles and doing the same exact thing.
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
youre the guy in the other thread who posted about how you slip your clutch and have to ride it to back outta your driveway everyday,so what now all of a sudden you dont slip it or ride it anymore?if you think a clutch made to hand 2 or even 3 times the hp/tq of the stock clutch is going to drive like a stock clutch in all aspects then youre the nieve one.