Koni sa, Strano springs, ss brake lines, brembo rotors, hawk pads install + my review
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Koni sa, Strano springs, ss brake lines, brembo rotors, hawk pads install + my review
Yesterday I spent the day installing my koni sa's(I got the 4th gen fronts and 3rd gen rears), strano springs, earl's stainless brake lines, brembo blank rotors and hawk hps pads(front and rear). I got the Koni's, springs, and rotors from Strano and the slp lid, k&n filter, brake lines, and hawk pads from ws6store. I also painted the rotors and my caliper brackets silver to set it off from the black. I came away with all my fingers and toes and got only 1 cut, so I would consider that pretty successful.
Install of the shocks and springs went fairly easy. Both of the front shock nuts were rusted as all get out, so I had to cut and chisel both of them off. I loaded that plastic strut mount with lithium grease so it shouldn't happen again. The strano shocks were quite a bit shorter than my eibach prokit but provided a taller ride height. With the prokit my measurements from the floor to the center of the wheel well were RF=25 3/4", LF=26", RR=26 1/8", LR=27 3/16". With the Strano springs they measured RF=26 1/4", LF=26 1/4, RR=26 3/4", LR=27 3/4". I think the reason my LR and RR measurements are an inch off before and after is because the car has been in a wreck where the frame was twisted.
As for how the shocks and springs ride and perform, it's 10x better. I had the prokit with stock decarbons shocks. I could have swore that I put on the bilstein hd's from my '01 Z on there before I sold it. I found out other wise yesterday though. That would really explain why my ride was so bad. The ride was harsh and just wasn't solid at all. With the koni sa's and strano springs it's so much better. I set the fronts at 5 1/2 sweeps from full hard. I set the rears at full soft. I went out driving this morning on a pretty rough road that you can get some speed on. You can feel the bumps but instead of your teeth fillings coming out, the car just soaks them up. It is so much smoother. I really could not believe how much of a difference it made. It stays glued to the road. With the old set up, if you were going around a corner and hit a bump the car would really wander in the rear end. It was a real problem. Now, it's all but gone. I can confidently take certain curves now that used to I would have to slow down. I plan on getting an adjustable panhard bar next month to hopefully nip it in the bud completely. I can't tell much of a difference in body roll through a corner for those of you who are wondering.
EDIT: I went out tonight for another drive on my road that I take to work. I take it so much I know what the car can do. Well tonight I was able to well exceed what I used to could. I wrote earlier that I couldn't tell much difference in body roll, but the road I drove this morning wasn't all that curvy. The road I took tonight was curvy and there isn't near as much body roll. It really sticks through the curve. I also got to do a real brake check tonight. 2 deer ran out in front of me. I really believe that with my old brakes, I would not have been able to slow down fast enough for me to not hit one of them. Luckily, I slowed down enough for them to get across right in front of me. I just barely got around them.
Installation of the brake lines was a real pain in the butt. I didn't have a line wrench which probably didn't help any. If you ever do the brake lines, GO BUY A BRAKE LINE WRENCH. You'll save yourself a lot of aggravation. Those brake line connections were ridiculously tight on my car.
As for the brakes performance, I think it is the best investment I have made on the car. I don't have exact numbers, but I did stopping test with my stock equipment and then today with the new parts. It's a night and day difference. It brakes so much harder. You can really feel it. I did some 50-0 stops this morning and it made me all giggly. The pedal feel is better to. It actually feels like you're pushing against something. The brake lines and pads for front and rear was only $229. That is a cheap safety upgrade for a very big difference. I would recommend at least the stainless brake lines and hawk hps pads for anyones next mod. It's well worth it. Also, I used Valvoline synpower brake fluid and did my best to flush the system.
If there is any questions about anything let me know.
Now for some pics.
ALL THE GOODIES
BEFORE, I KNOW CRAPPY SHOT
AFTER, I KNOW ANOTHER CRAPPY SHOT
BEFORE
AFTER. AND YES I MEANT TO OVERSPRAY THE PAINT
BEFORE
AFTER
IN THE HEAT OF THE BATTLE. IT GOT MUCH WORSE
Install of the shocks and springs went fairly easy. Both of the front shock nuts were rusted as all get out, so I had to cut and chisel both of them off. I loaded that plastic strut mount with lithium grease so it shouldn't happen again. The strano shocks were quite a bit shorter than my eibach prokit but provided a taller ride height. With the prokit my measurements from the floor to the center of the wheel well were RF=25 3/4", LF=26", RR=26 1/8", LR=27 3/16". With the Strano springs they measured RF=26 1/4", LF=26 1/4, RR=26 3/4", LR=27 3/4". I think the reason my LR and RR measurements are an inch off before and after is because the car has been in a wreck where the frame was twisted.
As for how the shocks and springs ride and perform, it's 10x better. I had the prokit with stock decarbons shocks. I could have swore that I put on the bilstein hd's from my '01 Z on there before I sold it. I found out other wise yesterday though. That would really explain why my ride was so bad. The ride was harsh and just wasn't solid at all. With the koni sa's and strano springs it's so much better. I set the fronts at 5 1/2 sweeps from full hard. I set the rears at full soft. I went out driving this morning on a pretty rough road that you can get some speed on. You can feel the bumps but instead of your teeth fillings coming out, the car just soaks them up. It is so much smoother. I really could not believe how much of a difference it made. It stays glued to the road. With the old set up, if you were going around a corner and hit a bump the car would really wander in the rear end. It was a real problem. Now, it's all but gone. I can confidently take certain curves now that used to I would have to slow down. I plan on getting an adjustable panhard bar next month to hopefully nip it in the bud completely. I can't tell much of a difference in body roll through a corner for those of you who are wondering.
EDIT: I went out tonight for another drive on my road that I take to work. I take it so much I know what the car can do. Well tonight I was able to well exceed what I used to could. I wrote earlier that I couldn't tell much difference in body roll, but the road I drove this morning wasn't all that curvy. The road I took tonight was curvy and there isn't near as much body roll. It really sticks through the curve. I also got to do a real brake check tonight. 2 deer ran out in front of me. I really believe that with my old brakes, I would not have been able to slow down fast enough for me to not hit one of them. Luckily, I slowed down enough for them to get across right in front of me. I just barely got around them.
Installation of the brake lines was a real pain in the butt. I didn't have a line wrench which probably didn't help any. If you ever do the brake lines, GO BUY A BRAKE LINE WRENCH. You'll save yourself a lot of aggravation. Those brake line connections were ridiculously tight on my car.
As for the brakes performance, I think it is the best investment I have made on the car. I don't have exact numbers, but I did stopping test with my stock equipment and then today with the new parts. It's a night and day difference. It brakes so much harder. You can really feel it. I did some 50-0 stops this morning and it made me all giggly. The pedal feel is better to. It actually feels like you're pushing against something. The brake lines and pads for front and rear was only $229. That is a cheap safety upgrade for a very big difference. I would recommend at least the stainless brake lines and hawk hps pads for anyones next mod. It's well worth it. Also, I used Valvoline synpower brake fluid and did my best to flush the system.
If there is any questions about anything let me know.
Now for some pics.
ALL THE GOODIES
BEFORE, I KNOW CRAPPY SHOT
AFTER, I KNOW ANOTHER CRAPPY SHOT
BEFORE
AFTER. AND YES I MEANT TO OVERSPRAY THE PAINT
BEFORE
AFTER
IN THE HEAT OF THE BATTLE. IT GOT MUCH WORSE
Last edited by LS1DER; 06-16-2007 at 08:36 PM.
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The next thing you need to do is shorten your sway-bar bolts so the bars are level at the lower ride height. I know it don't sound like much but it makes the bars work like they are suppose to instead of half bound up like they are now. Then remove the rear panhard brace and move your panhard rod up to the brace hole so it is level again. If you do both of these the car will work soo much better.
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The next thing you need to do is shorten your sway-bar bolts so the bars are level at the lower ride height. I know it don't sound like much but it makes the bars work like they are suppose to instead of half bound up like they are now. Then remove the rear panhard brace and move your panhard rod up to the brace hole so it is level again. If you do both of these the car will work soo much better.
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Originally Posted by Crash00527
i want my car to look like his ^^
whats everyones take on cutting a little off of stranos springs to lower it more?
whats everyones take on cutting a little off of stranos springs to lower it more?
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LS1der where did u get the brembo rotors from and how much? Also I got Y2K's but chrome. I like the way ur Y2K's are painted black from the inside.What companies sell that rim and around How much did u pay? Ur car looks good. Thanx!
#11
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"For the fronts you can set the springs on the lower perch. I think that will lower it another 1/4". Mine's on the top perch. On the back I think you could do the hose mod and get about 1/2" to 3/4 more drop."
You can't set stranos springs on the lower perch, the nut won't tighten down on the shock. Ask me how I know this...
You can't set stranos springs on the lower perch, the nut won't tighten down on the shock. Ask me how I know this...
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Originally Posted by armkneez8
LS1der where did u get the brembo rotors from and how much? Also I got Y2K's but chrome. I like the way ur Y2K's are painted black from the inside.What companies sell that rim and around How much did u pay? Ur car looks good. Thanx!
I got the rotors from Strano. They were $64 each for the front and $68 each for the rear. Total = $264+$40 shipping, they're heavy.
I got the wheels off of ebay a couple years ago. I really don't remember how much they cost, but I'm thinking somewhere around $500.
Originally Posted by Viper
You can't set stranos springs on the lower perch, the nut won't tighten down on the shock. Ask me how I know this...
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Originally Posted by LS1DER
Sounds logical, but I've actually never heard of people doing that. Is this a tried and true mod. Wouldn't mind some more input on that. I'll check into it and possibly do that here in a couple of weeks. Thanks
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The next thing you need to do is shorten your sway-bar bolts so the bars are level at the lower ride height. I know it don't sound like much but it makes the bars work like they are suppose to instead of half bound up like they are now. Then remove the rear panhard brace and move your panhard rod up to the brace hole so it is level again. If you do both of these the car will work soo much better.
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I'm getting some adj lca's and an adj. panhard bar in a couple of weeks and I'll try out your suggestions then and see what I think about it.
EDIT: I just ordered UMI adj lca's and adj. panhard bar tonight, so hopefully be getting those on shortly.
EDIT: I just ordered UMI adj lca's and adj. panhard bar tonight, so hopefully be getting those on shortly.
Last edited by LS1DER; 06-19-2007 at 09:22 PM.