presto_z

iTrader: (12)

my car is loud as hell inside, i have LT's ORY and LMII, i also have a 3600stall and 3.73's so it keeps the rpm's high and noisy..

would 2 gallons of edead v3 and 150sq ft of v1 be sufficient.. i have t-tops so i dont need to do the roof

also this will cost around $250 before shipping, would there be a better rout without raising the price above 300 for the entire car.. and produce better results..

i know second skin is the best but i dont think 2 gallons would be enough.. only covers 40sq ft per gallon and i really dont wanna order a 3rd (kinda pricey and doesnt cover as much)

also i heard if you ask for the "forum discount" from elemental design you will get an extra 20% off.. is this true?

what are your suggestions

partyhardoo69

iTrader: (1)

as for the liquid stuff....i ordered 2 quarts just to try the stuff....i had to add about a cup or two of water to each one. They come "pre-mixed" but if i spread it like the way it came it would cover about 2 sq feet and 3" thick. So make sure you check to see if you need to mix it with water first. and i did my whole car in edead mat. Made a very nice change. (running headers to borla dumps under the axle.)

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

i ordered 160sq ft of E1 and 2 gallons of E3 along with the roller.. i was told to lay the mat down first and do the liquid over that (told it would stick and spread better by the people over at elemental designs) also if you order over the phone and mention the "forum discount" and you get an extra 20% off (which is nice when ordering a few hundred dollars worth of stuff) comes out to 80cents a sq with the discount (cheap!!)

the people over there were great, and they will be getting more business from me in the future..

pentavolvo

I just got back from there yearly meet at there location in Iowa, good guys and yeah the deadner will make a world of diffence. We used a ton of v1se2 in my buddies TA with full exhaust an soo much quieter, and all the squeeks are gone now as well

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

well so far i have about 12 hours into the install and all the v1 is laid down except for the doors.. im still waiting on my 2 gallons of v3 to show up (was on backorder), it should be here tomorrow, and ill cover over everything with that... im changing out the passengers side window motor while im in the door...

i have 2 layers of v1 in the rear panels and hatch area (in the pics you can see my stealth boxes.. should sound good when im done)







NOTE: this takes along time.. i figure ill have around 30hours by the time im finished, so if you plan on doing this plan on some down time (ive put about 4hrs a night for the past 3 nights)

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

ohhh there was alsome some surface rust that i took care of (under each rear seat and some under the passengers seat here are a few pics

before



after


did some sanding, some priming, and finally some painting.. the color matches perfectly even though it doesnt really matter.. looks orange due to the flash and the paint still being wet...but its not

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

UPDATE: changed out passengers side window motor(has been shot for about 4 months lol) and both doors are covered in V1 inside and out

holes drilled to access rivets on window motor


inside pass. side door


pass side door (the doors are by far the most time consuming part of this project)

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

UPDATE: my 2 gallons of blue v3 finally came in last night..

i have about 1 pint left over.. when i got it came in it was super goopey and wouldnt spread at all, so i called up elementaldesigns and they said to add a 1/4 cup of water at a time until its to a workable consistency (took 1/2 cup for me)

went on fairly easy and took a few hours to use it all up..i did from the firewall to the taillights, both rear fenderwells, sail panel, and inside and out of both doors


looks a little ghey because its baby blue lol..













FLORIDA is freakin hot... its in the high 90's with high humidity and it sucks *****.. atleast this stuff will dry faster

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

well today i shampood the carpet and got out all sorts of unseen nastiness

everything went back together pretty good and i didnt have any bolts leftover

i did however have one problem... i kept blowing a damn fuse, i eventually traced down the short and it was a led for the shifter that had smushed the prongs together (i have no clue how this happened)

i figured it out after about an hour and a half of scratching my head and double checking some wiring to make sure i didnt somehow screw something up.



it made a huge difference on the sound, and now i can actually have a conversation without having to scream.. it also stopped alot of heat from coming through the firewall onto my feet...


took about 26 hours from start to finish and thats including many many AC breaks, changing out a window motor, and running wiring for an amp and subs

now i just gotta buy a damn amp

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

sweet, looks like a good job there, and i bet it helped a ton.

i have a question, tho.....at the ends of the doors where that big opening is, did you cut those holes out yourself, or are they like that from the factory? i can't really tell from the pictures, and i don't remember what my door panels looked like when i was in there....it's been a while since i opened them up.

i was considering only doing the mat material when i do my sound deadening, but after seeing this, i may just decide to do both like you did. it looks like it will work really well.

and is it hard to keep that liquid stuff from running down the doors and other vertical surfaces, or it is pretty "tacky" and stays put well?

Keyboard Ninja

Its more like a tar than a liquid.

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

those holes are from the factory that way..

and the stuff stays on the verticals very well.. you can mix in water to get a good consistency to spread, just be sure you don't add to much where it falls off the doors and sail panel.. i mixed in a little water (about a 1/4 cup for the doors) to keep it tacky enough to hold, and mixed in another quarter cup so it would spread easier on the floorboard

im very happy with the results.. there are no more annoying rattles and everything feels alot more solid... the doors no longer rattle when driving and when they shut its a nice solid thump instead of a rattling sound

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

I need to do this to my car when the temps come down a bit. It is just too dam hot out to do it now.

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

i live in port charlotte so i know what ya mean about the heat..

hey were you down at aftermath the other day??

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

yes I was and I will be there on the 8th for the dyno day. you guys coming down?

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

yep ill be there along with manny and lauren(the other 2 camaro divers that were there) and a few more people from down here.. should be a pretty good turnout..

hopefully mike norris will be there, i know somebody who is going to need a tune (he has a tt vette )

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

actually, you'd be better off (well, your CAR would be better off) if you do it when it's hot...depending on the type of sound deadener you use. some of them obtain maximum adhesion when it is heated during installation, so it would make sense to do it while it's warm/hot outside, so you won't have to heat it for as long

Tram

iTrader: (14)

Where can you buy this stuff?

I am actually looking for something to deaden the sound in an airplane I am working on and thought about using some in the T/A too..

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

YGPM since I don't know if they're a sponsor or not..