Subs don't always fully power / hit as hard...weird problem
06-20-2007, 10:10 AM
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Subs don't always fully power / hit as hard...weird problem I have two 10" subs and an amp in my car, installed with a line level converter and still using the stock head unit. My problem is really weird so I'm going to list everything I can think of that might help in figuring out what the problem is:
When I first get in my car one of two things happens--randomly the subs will either hit like normal and work just fine the entire time I drive or they'll only be about 1/3 as loud as usual the entire time I drive. All the wiring is tight and the amp is powering on every time the stereo is on. The subs are always hitting, just sometimes not nearly as loud as usual. When I had the problem in the past there was a way I could always get the subs to fully 'kick in', which was that I would turn the volume and/or bass on the head unit up to nearly max for a second and then they would start hitting 100%, then I'd turn the bass back down to the normal level. This little trick stopped working after my car was broken into and I replaced the subs/amp with very similar but different brand equipment. Now no matter how loud I turn the bass or volume up, they will not just magically kick in 100% like before. Every once in a while when I'm driving along they'll just start hitting like normal but it doesn't seem to be related to anything at all.
Another thing to note is that I took out my stock sail panel speakers, and the driver's side sail panel speaker line is where the line level converter is spliced in. I noticed before taking those speakers out I never had the problem. When I took them out it would be intermittently an issue and as said above I could just turn up the volume/bass for a second and the subs would kick back in, but that was only with my old stuff. So with the new subs/amp I reinstalled that sail panel speaker and the subs started working 100% every single time...until now. Now they are back to the random crap again even with that speaker reinstalled.
Any help is much appreciated!
When I first get in my car one of two things happens--randomly the subs will either hit like normal and work just fine the entire time I drive or they'll only be about 1/3 as loud as usual the entire time I drive. All the wiring is tight and the amp is powering on every time the stereo is on. The subs are always hitting, just sometimes not nearly as loud as usual. When I had the problem in the past there was a way I could always get the subs to fully 'kick in', which was that I would turn the volume and/or bass on the head unit up to nearly max for a second and then they would start hitting 100%, then I'd turn the bass back down to the normal level. This little trick stopped working after my car was broken into and I replaced the subs/amp with very similar but different brand equipment. Now no matter how loud I turn the bass or volume up, they will not just magically kick in 100% like before. Every once in a while when I'm driving along they'll just start hitting like normal but it doesn't seem to be related to anything at all.
Another thing to note is that I took out my stock sail panel speakers, and the driver's side sail panel speaker line is where the line level converter is spliced in. I noticed before taking those speakers out I never had the problem. When I took them out it would be intermittently an issue and as said above I could just turn up the volume/bass for a second and the subs would kick back in, but that was only with my old stuff. So with the new subs/amp I reinstalled that sail panel speaker and the subs started working 100% every single time...until now. Now they are back to the random crap again even with that speaker reinstalled.
Any help is much appreciated!
06-20-2007, 11:46 AM
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I'm going to take some guesses here...
Do you have the line converter wired into the HU output or the amplifier (Monsoon) output? If it's wired to the HU outputs, I'd guess that your line converter sucks. If it's wired into the amplified outputs, then it could be a problem with your Monsoon amplifier or could be a problem with the line converter.
If you are connected to the amplified outputs, I'd strongly suggest switching to the HU outputs. You'll be converting less noise and the converter should have an easier time of things since you'll be sending a narrower range of voltages.
I'd just say switch to an aftermarket HU and run RCAs directly to your amplifier. It'll likely fix your problem (assuming it's with your line converter) and give you better SQ at the same time.
Do you have the line converter wired into the HU output or the amplifier (Monsoon) output? If it's wired to the HU outputs, I'd guess that your line converter sucks. If it's wired into the amplified outputs, then it could be a problem with your Monsoon amplifier or could be a problem with the line converter.
If you are connected to the amplified outputs, I'd strongly suggest switching to the HU outputs. You'll be converting less noise and the converter should have an easier time of things since you'll be sending a narrower range of voltages.
I'd just say switch to an aftermarket HU and run RCAs directly to your amplifier. It'll likely fix your problem (assuming it's with your line converter) and give you better SQ at the same time.
06-23-2007, 02:39 AM
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I had the install done at Circuit City a while ago and they have the converter wired into the line going to the back seat driver's side speaker.
I have been thinking about getting a new head unit for a long time not only to eliminate the converter but also to have a direct wired connection for my iPod (currently I have an FM transmitter for when I do use the iPod, but it's so bad that I still burn CDs and use them when possible). I have heard there are a few head units that allow you to retain the steering wheel radio controls, so I'll start looking for those first.
I have been thinking about getting a new head unit for a long time not only to eliminate the converter but also to have a direct wired connection for my iPod (currently I have an FM transmitter for when I do use the iPod, but it's so bad that I still burn CDs and use them when possible). I have heard there are a few head units that allow you to retain the steering wheel radio controls, so I'll start looking for those first.
06-23-2007, 10:41 AM
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you need to put the line out converter behind the radio and wire it directly to the stereo outputs. those CC installers were lazy.
if you replace the stereo, you can use a SWI-X from PAC to retain the steering wheel controls. it uses infra red and ruplicates a wireless remote signal, so the new stereo needs to come with a wireless remote.
another possibility for the problem is that you need a capacitor. the real purpose for a cap is to regulate the voltage in the car. if your voltage drops too low the amps output will drop, yielding lower volume. this typically happens only after driving for a few mins, not exactly like your problem. watch your battery guage and note where its at when the bass is loud and when its not. ive noticed that sometimes my voltage is low, and its at random times and for no reason. you could be having the same problem.
if you replace the stereo, you can use a SWI-X from PAC to retain the steering wheel controls. it uses infra red and ruplicates a wireless remote signal, so the new stereo needs to come with a wireless remote.
another possibility for the problem is that you need a capacitor. the real purpose for a cap is to regulate the voltage in the car. if your voltage drops too low the amps output will drop, yielding lower volume. this typically happens only after driving for a few mins, not exactly like your problem. watch your battery guage and note where its at when the bass is loud and when its not. ive noticed that sometimes my voltage is low, and its at random times and for no reason. you could be having the same problem.
06-23-2007, 10:55 AM
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i have the same problem, my subs get loud sometimes, soft most of the time. for me its related to my RCA connections, the wires i have in my car now have been in and out of 4 or 5 cars over the past 4 years, and are probably pretty worn out... but once i replace the RCA's it should go back to normal
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06-24-2007, 01:42 AM
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hmmm. sounds wierd. Could be a few things, id take it back to CC and have a manager look at it. It may be something stupid like the factory amp cutting the frequencies too high and ur amp isnt getting the signal it wants. But really it shouldnt matter if u hook up to the amplified output or the signal output.
06-24-2007, 08:14 AM
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Sounds like a wiring problem to me. Take it back to CC, and explain the issue. If they cant resolve the issue for you, demand a refund and take it to an actual car stereo shop. OR... you might use this oppurtunity to buy yourself a shiny new head unit which will have RCA outputs. The lesson of the day is: CC or BB= Crap installs.
06-24-2007, 10:04 PM
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same is happing to me i never did ground the line converter i have a alpine mrd-m1000 it basses on 2ch but when i swith it to 1ch its hits hard but cuts out im thinking not enough voltage/signal from the conveter well see when i put the dvd in and the converter is installed behind the radio
i have a TSW3004SPL PIONEER 12" with a 140 amp alt and a orbital batt
i have a TSW3004SPL PIONEER 12" with a 140 amp alt and a orbital batt
06-28-2007, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fast01z28
you need to put the line out converter behind the radio and wire it directly to the stereo outputs. those CC installers were lazy.
if you replace the stereo, you can use a SWI-X from PAC to retain the steering wheel controls. it uses infra red and ruplicates a wireless remote signal, so the new stereo needs to come with a wireless remote.
another possibility for the problem is that you need a capacitor. the real purpose for a cap is to regulate the voltage in the car. if your voltage drops too low the amps output will drop, yielding lower volume. this typically happens only after driving for a few mins, not exactly like your problem. watch your battery guage and note where its at when the bass is loud and when its not. ive noticed that sometimes my voltage is low, and its at random times and for no reason. you could be having the same problem.
if you replace the stereo, you can use a SWI-X from PAC to retain the steering wheel controls. it uses infra red and ruplicates a wireless remote signal, so the new stereo needs to come with a wireless remote.
another possibility for the problem is that you need a capacitor. the real purpose for a cap is to regulate the voltage in the car. if your voltage drops too low the amps output will drop, yielding lower volume. this typically happens only after driving for a few mins, not exactly like your problem. watch your battery guage and note where its at when the bass is loud and when its not. ive noticed that sometimes my voltage is low, and its at random times and for no reason. you could be having the same problem.
The Circuit City where I got the install done is now closed unfortunately, so I'd have to drive a bit to find another one and they probably won't be as ready to help as the one I used to go to unless I can dig out a receipt (it's been nearly a year now).I thought about the capacitor thing but do not believe that is my problem. According to the stock gauge my voltage is always plenty high enough and doesn't fluctuate with the randomly missing bass.
