Drag Racing Results - Why can't I 60ft?!!!!

So I went out to the local street night, which was about 70* so it was good air. I recently switched out to an aluminum DS and removed front sway bar. The best 60ft I cut was a 1.86 with a 12.31@116. I made 8 passes and I couldn't get my 60ft down for nothing. I had a QA1's set at 3 on the back and 6 in the front and my psi at 15. I just can't get it down, wtf? BTW, TEA stage 1 heads/F13, full bolton's, full suspension, 6 speed, 12 bolt w/4.10's, fullweight. Tires are 17" M/T DR's.

Anyone?

Couple things

1) Full weight will be a problem
2) Launch RPM
3) Spinning or bogging?
4) 17" DR aren't the best. What I have seen, the new M/T like air in them. Did you try going up, not down, in air pressure?

On the surface it looks like you should be running a little better. Over all DA could still be hurting you.

left at 5k on first launch-tires at 20psi, spun
left at 4k-tires at 15psi, spun
slipped at 3k, tires at 15psi, hooked
slipped hard at 4 k, spun
slipped softer at 4k, hooked

usually when I left hard at around 5k, it will dead hook and the car would bog, it always bogs when I leave hard and it hooks, the only way I can keep the nose in the air,hook, and get a decent 60ft is if I slip, if I slip it too hard, it will slip the whole way down the track.

Already pricing out a TH350 swap..... :cry:

Already pricing out a TH350 swap..... :cry:

Thats what I did about 4 years ago. Have not had a problem since.:devil:

Coach

I love my 6 speeed, but I want that 11 second slip

Use a 15" slick, not a 17" dr.

Use a 15" slick, not a 17" dr.

Would it really make that much difference?

I'm thinking that I just don't have the power for 11's, I made 400 exactly to the wheels with the current setup, but it just isn't showing at the track

i get 1.54-1.58s on bolt ons 15 mickey t's prostars

my friend with x1 cam averages 1.48-1.55

Bias-Ply rears seem to greatly help M6 F-body cars. If you want DOT-approved tires, try ET Streets. I tried several different drag radials - none worked nearly as well as ET Streets for me.

I thought you wanted to have a stiff rear shock and a loose front? Seems like you have it backwards. Maybe I'm wrong but I run my fronts on 2.

Yeah, I was hoping that's a type-o :eek2:

I run 2 front. 4 on both rear, or 6 left 8 right on rear (depending on track conditions). It's real hard to get a "manual" to hook a drag radial 17 inch. You need a few rotations to keep the car from bogging but, man they usually go away before they grab...Other drag radials like 15 325's work much better...

I recently read in a magazine (either GMHTP, or CHP) they were track testing a suspension setup and they had QA1's on them and they had the rear loose and the front tight, I was trying to find the magazine but I can't, maybe I did have it backwards :bang:. Either way, so should I try out a 15" drag radial or a DOT slick? I tried 15" ET streets when I was cam only and with 15 psi in the rears, it scared the crap out of me on the top end of the track, hence the reason I switched to a 17" DR.

I'm going to try to find that magazine article too.........

left at 5k on first launch-tires at 20psi, spun
left at 4k-tires at 15psi, spun
slipped at 3k, tires at 15psi, hooked
slipped hard at 4 k, spun
slipped softer at 4k, hooked

usually when I left hard at around 5k, it will dead hook and the car would bog, it always bogs when I leave hard and it hooks, the only way I can keep the nose in the air,hook, and get a decent 60ft is if I slip, if I slip it too hard, it will slip the whole way down the track.

Already pricing out a TH350 swap..... :cry:

How is the tune on the car? Mph is at least 5 down, what kind of power is it making? Should be little north of 400?

You dont have nearly enough pressure in the tire. Even a 275/50/15 should hook anything you have. Ive cut some easy 1.4 60 fts on M/T rads with lot more gear/hp/manny trans so you can stick it. Shoot me a pm and give me a full rundown on the sus parts you have

I tried 15" ET streets when I was cam only and with 15 psi in the rears, it scared the crap out of me on the top end of the track...

Why did it scare You?

Hell I envy your 1.86, I can't go better than a high 1.9 and that's a hard enough deal.. damn M6's!

Why did it scare You?
It took a couple of passes for me to get used to the "loose" feeling also. No big deal.

I recently read in a magazine (either GMHTP, or CHP) they were track testing a suspension setup and they had QA1's on them and they had the rear loose and the front tight, I was trying to find the magazine but I can't, maybe I did have it backwards :bang:. Either way, so should I try out a 15" drag radial or a DOT slick? I tried 15" ET streets when I was cam only and with 15 psi in the rears, it scared the crap out of me on the top end of the track, hence the reason I switched to a 17" DR.

I'm going to try to find that magazine article too.........
You do have it backwards. Try the other way and you should be happy.

Most say Bias ply tires hook better on M6's.

Yea, thats what I was thinkin...Set the rear shocks 4-5, and the fronts 2-3..Just have to play with it..bump your PSI to around 18.

Have you removed your front swaybar?

First thing I would try would be not to run on a street night and run on a regular race day when the track is treated. It's amazing what good track prep will do for ya. Case in point you know Lee with the blue SS, Friday night I think his best pass was a 11.52 on a 1.7ish 60ft I belive. He went out Saturday and ran a 11.37 on a 1.62 60ft. I run 17 inch MT's on my car as well. I have found they hook the best for me on 16lbs. The MT'S will work, you just gotta find the sweet spot. Get out there on a regular race day and I bet you will get that 11 second slip for sure. Good luck

RObbie, i agree on trying the 15's. you should have never sold your track wheels/tires.

-get rid of some weight
-stiffen the rear to 7/8 and use the fronts loose on 3
-what is your pinion angle?
-"tiiires, win the race"


you should be seeing some 1.6's and some 11.8's with your slow shifting.

RObbie, i agree on trying the 15's. you should have never sold your track wheels/tires.

-get rid of some weight
-stiffen the rear to 7/8 and use the fronts loose on 3
-what is your pinion angle?
-"tiiires, win the race"


you should be seeing some 1.6's and some 11.8's with your slow shifting.

yea yea I know, needed the money back then, kicking myself now, hey, at least I sold them to a good friend of mine :eyes:

angle is -2*.

I really don't know what other weight to shed off. I'm leaving the AC though.

Steeler71 - Yea I know Lee, that car is just a freak, I've realized that, it ran good times with bolton's.

CRZYPWR - It was too unstable for me, I didn't like the feeling, hence why I switched to DR's.

AshWS6 - Car did have a full tune before I put edelbrock stepped LT's and PST driveshaft. Before I had old skool QTP 1.75 and denny's steel driveshaft. Car also made 400 to the wheels before the edelbrock LT's and denny's steel shaft. It may need to be touched up a little bit, not sure.

I guess I will try it out on a normal race day, if I could get that 11 I'd be just fine.

yea yea I know, needed the money back then, kicking myself now, hey, at least I sold them to a good friend of mine :eyes: .
LOL

I guess I will try it out on a normal race day, if I could get that 11 I'd be just fine.

hey robbie...... I LOVE YA MAN.
dont get down on yourself well get those 11 second slips this year. :)
hes got the mph to do 11s no doubt. im going to tell ya like i always do. beat up on the car like that fu(ker owes you money.

you have the shocks set backwards, the looser the front (lower setting) the faster the front end will raise and plant the tires. if the track is not hooking start at 0 on the backs as well(loose in the back will let it hit the tires harder as well) and work your way up from there to find your best time. 17" drags isn't the best but should at least get a high 1.7 60'. hell i had almost the same setup lid, ported t/b, F-13, lt's, cutout(see sig) on the stock clutch and suspension with a 9" w/4.11's ran a 1.673 60' 11.9@116(full weight) that was on 16" et streets but the car was SCARY all over the place 1st and 2nd, and just kept swaying after that. i'll never use those tires again. just got some 275/50-15 mt et street radial's. will let you know how they work out after my d/s and axle studs come in. just play with the suspension and buy some vht

Ashws6 was me sorry. put a 275/50/15 on it tighten the back and leave the front lil loose. No one can tell you what numbers becasue car to car and track to track day it varies. Ive dead hooked at 6900-7200 rpm, 1.4s on a stick car, driving in off the street without touching the tire pressure. Its usually in the chassis, not the tire on a stick car

I really don't know what other weight to shed off. I'm leaving the AC though.

.

hey robbie- you can always get a spohn k-member ($445.00),Lt. wieght battery ($90.00) ,and a set of jegs prostars for the front ($190.00) . all together should count for at least 80 to 100 lbs off the front end easy. with all of these mods your cars weight transfer will improve and so should your 60ft ,thus hopefully producing a lower ET. :) i bet you will see 11.8's or better without touching the motor . :judge:

Its not in the weight I can garuntee you that. Ive cut some 1.80s-1.82s on a stick car with Eagle F1sin a 3700lb T/A. Take that $800 and the 8 hrs of work that would take and put it in the tire/suspension. Itll cut 1.5s on a radial without a question with a t/a, LCAs, shocks. Nothing fancy about it but if you get the chassis happy thats the most you can do in a stick car. I added 150 lbs to my car last year and it didnt slow my 60 ft down at all, actually cut my best 60 at the heaviest the car was raced at

hey robbie- you can always get a spohn k-member ($445.00),Lt. wieght battery ($90.00) ,and a set of jegs prostars for the front ($190.00) . all together should count for at least 80 to 100 lbs off the front end easy. with all of these mods your cars weight transfer will improve and so should your 60ft ,thus hopefully producing a lower ET. :) i bet you will see 11.8's or better without touching the motor . :judge:

Thanks Mac, yea I'm looking into a k member now, I would like to get the lower control arms also with it, but it's just more money. I really don't want to dig into the engine again, getting tired of it. Hopefully I'll see some improvement. :drive:

Thanks Mac, yea I'm looking into a k member now, I would like to get the lower control arms also with it, but it's just more money. I really don't want to dig into the engine again, getting tired of it. Hopefully I'll see some improvement. :drive:

Your not going to notice a measureable improvement by taking that 30-35 lbs out. The most you can hope to see is .02-.04. Car probably isnt repeatable enough to see anything less than a full tenth. You have the same hp I had to run the times I did, Id just worry bout putting it down.

Control arms are alot of cash for 4 lbs saved.

Thanks Mac, yea I'm looking into a k member now, I would like to get the lower control arms also with it, but it's just more money. I really don't want to dig into the engine again, getting tired of it. Hopefully I'll see some improvement. :drive:

I know it may cost but you cannot go wrong losing a little weight off the car and helping the weight transfer for better 60ft's . i think spohn LCA's are about $115.00 for the tubular ones. I'm sure you have sub-frames on your car now , right .? If you do ,all these parts will come together and give you your 11's for sure and you will be able to hook more regularly. You can throw all the hp at your car you want ,but if you don't have the suspension worked out ,you are not going anywhere fast at all .It's a ol'skool way of thinking ,but it works. Hell ,I'm ol'skool . :chug:

i agree with Granny that it's moreso in the chassis and suspension and tires. robbie knows he can launch higher

Im cam only, and only raced this setup one time and Ive got 6 mph and .4-.5 tenths in the 60 ft alone on him. I can garuntee you if I had a stock kmember it wouldnt change anything. Fix the weakest link in the timeslip and youll get the most out of it, so I wouldnt spin my wheels trying other stuff is all Im saying. You could put a 200 shot on the car, but it will probably still run 12s in a Supra-ish manner :) People end up very frustrated with cars taking 9 different approaches that doesnt solve the main issue.

275 drag radials, 4.56s and 7000 rpm I dead hook. If you can do that robbie, it will go 11.80s all day

I've cut better 60's when I slip it rather then dumping it. I've done 5k dumps, dead hooked, and the car bogged down, ended up with 1.9x 60 ft's. I have better luck slipping it

Leave harder then! :) Car probably needs more gear or leave harder, although you should be easily making enough hp that it shoudl pull those gears

Leave higher also, and when it bogs a bit its falling down to torque peak, if you leave at 5 and it bogs its going to goto 3000 rpm where its not making any power.

Ive had mine "bog" and it cuts 1.55s to 1.57, but I leave with the rpm up to help carry it. A stick car normally with a good tire you have to slap the tire to stick it initially

I'm stuck in the mid 1.7s on the 17" MTs & they are hit or miss, taking it easy off the line. I can't even think about spraying them under 4k RPMs. That is with an A4, so I know that I'd really hate them if I had an M6.

Gtta knwo how to hit em!