WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

well i was lookin at my LTFT and saw both at about 10-12% at WOT and running in 4th gear at 60 mph about 3000 rpm also at 60 mph in 6th gear. im not too firmiliar with what this means can you help me out? also i see the o2 numbers at WOT hover around 890-940 but its kinda hard to get it to read constant. i sent me predator back to get it recalibrated with the mods that i have in my sig and i got it back and it just doesnt feel as fast. the only difference was my LTFT were at about 5-6% before. anyone have any idea what i can possibly do to get some more pep out of it and please let me know what the LTFT numbers mean? thanks guys

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

+ LTRIMS means the car dumps fuel at WOT cause it THINKS you are lean

do you have a ported MAF? You cant tune a car by WOT LTRIMS either. You need to get a idea of what they are cruising around. Again you want them slightly negative(0 to -3 range). Mine average from 0 to +4 but im happy with them there

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

when i am crusin they are at about 11% what does this mean? how can i adjust to get them lower around 5 or so???????

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

means you need to richen your car. I see you have the SLP MAF and smooth bellow. Even though the SLP MAF is calibrated it still runs the car a tad lean. I know a ported TB would richen the car back up a bit and probably make the LTRIMS about 6-7% cruising.

Simple fix would be to pull up the MAF table on edit'

highlight the 3000-6000cells and mult by 110%, then scale down the cells after that untill you hit 100%

example 6000 x 110%, 6100 x 109%, 6200 x 108% on down untill 100% so it levels out the table

i know 6000, 6100, and etc arent the correct mhz's but its just for a general idea what to do

that should bring your LTRIMS to 0 or CLOSE when at cruise rpms

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

He's using the Predator - you can't do it with edit overtop!

Predator can do this for you - they brought mine down by editing the MAF table. You have to talk to them and let them know what average LTFTs you have.

Why are you sending it back to them? They sent me programs in an e-mail and I downloaded them into my Predator.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i have been fighting over getting it to work over email but i cant get it to work. so any suggestions would be great.


ok my LTFT are running about 9.38% going down the road at 60 mph. but my o2 numbers are right at 900 so that should be good. what do i need to do to get these numbers down for LTFT? i have 0% knock retard until i back off is that cool? i was messing with the PE and it screwed up the o2 numbers. i put the stock program back in there to see how it was. my o2 is running OK at about 880 maybe too lean and the LTFT is 7%.

i went to put the tuning they gave me back in and it said some kind of time error or whatever and booted me out. why is this? so it looks like my air fuel is good by the o2 numbers but the LTFT is high. what do i need to do? and would i benefit from any more advanced timing? it just doesnt feel like i have the same amount of response as the first time i did it before i sent it off. and i dont wanna screw anything up on my car. i went back to restore so should i just leave it like that until i can get a new program? that is the stock tune right? and why isnt it going back to the program they gave me? sorry so long! please any comments would help a lot!

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

when i check the LTFT do i wanna be on the gas or off the gas? and wouldnt the ram air cause it to wanna correct it more? my MAF is about .75-.78 at idle if taht helps anything. i read u mentioned it so i figured i would throw that in too lol

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

crap, my bad.. i thought you had edit

Ltrims need to be studied at part throttle. The PCM takes the last LTRIM reading before WOT and thar reading tells the PC to add or not to add fuel. If you LTRIMS are 0 at WOT then it isnt adding any fuel. If they are +0 then its adding fuel. But you need to use the part throttle and cruising ones to tune the car...

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

anyone else? please?!

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

I have learned the hard way that tuning is very tricky, and it doesn't take much to break things! If I were you, I would consider contacting Predator and finding out if you could get them to dyno tune it for you. I know it would cost some money, but take it from me, it will be nothing compared to the cost of a motor!

If you restored the original tuning, you should be alright for easy part throttle driving.

I know some people have taken their cars to Predator and had Predator dyno the car and set it up with a great tune. At least then, you have a good baseline for them to tweak if you do more mods later.

I have had the problems with the error on the screen before trying to load a program also - I just back out and try again - it will eventually go through.

I had trouble getting my PC to load files to the Predator also. Had to set up my BIOS correctly for the port to work.

At least call Predator and find out where you could take it and what it would cost - I'm telling you, if you don't know exactly what you are doing, you can trash an engine in a very short time. Then you'll look like me

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i was told that as long as i dont touch their tune then it should be fine i just need to let them know how to adjust it better for me. i mean my motor runs nice and smooth and the o2 numbers are right on the money every WOT run i make. and they told me theLTFT is the computer compensating to make it run right so it wont mess up. is this true?

J&JsTA

The LTFTs are compensating for a lean condition at cruise/base with + LTFTs. The problem with that is..... when you punch it and the LTFTs are + they freeze at that number and add that much more fuel on top of the PE vs RPM table that controls your WOT fueling. That makes it hard to tune at WOT as you could be in a number of different fuel cells each time you go to WOT, and each cruise cell may have a different + percentage (eg: cell 8 could be + 4, cell 9 could be + 8) So each time you punch it from cruise you could have a different A/F mixture each time at WOT depending on what fuel cell you were in when you hit it. That is why it is important to get your LTFTs down to 0 or slightly negative as these conditions don't add any fuel when you hit WOT..... so when you set up WOT fueling next you are working in a stable and identical environment each time .... so when you get your LTFTs to 0 your O2 readings may no longer be at .900 but at least you will have a stable environment to work from

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

well i put my stock MAF back in until i can find someone to help me out on that. the numbers are around 3 and frequently hop down to 0 so i guess thats pretty good lol o2 is about 890 or so too. i am getting a little bit on KR when i got on it in 4th at 70 is this alright or no? and will i ever beable to get my SLP MAF back on my car without any problems? do i just need a better tune or should i just wait until i dyno tune?

J&JsTA

If you are going to buff, grind, polish, port, mafend, enlarge, play with or swap out for an aftermarket MAF you will most likely need some kind of special tunning to make it work properly and even then it may never be perfect. You do need to log and give your LTFT readings to the predator guys to get you a tune that will reduce them to 0 or slightly negative so you are not adding fuel at WOT and work from there.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i talked to someone and they said my car was pinging. it makes that noise at about 5000 rpm. said its signs of detonation. what exactly does that mean? and how can i get it to stop. should i just take the SLP MAF off and the program out until i can get the tune just right? i dont wanna break anything. i was pinging wiht the SLP MAF on there too.

J&JsTA

Pinging is detonation(running lean)which the PCM will respond with Knock Retard. There are 2 common ways to adjust it out, add fuel in the RPM range where it is taking place or reduce timing which is what the PCM is doing with KR and a lot of times if you don't mess with the MAF and put the stock one back on it will go away

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

thanks man. i just took it all out and back to stock for now until i can hit up a dyno and get it all right. is that a good idea? lol

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

thanks man. i just took it all out and back to stock for now until i can hit up a dyno and get it all right. is that a good idea? lol i mean with it all stock my fuel trims are hovering at 0